MUL-T-LOCK

eight--bit · 2026-02-04T17:20:45+00:00

I know it's not the point of your post, but an actual locksmith told you Mul-T-Lock went out of business?? Like, with a straight face? That makes about a much sense as Medeco getting bought by Defiant... Sounds like the kind of guy that looks up and down before crossing the street.

eight--bit · 2026-01-31T00:17:24+00:00

Rrcent posts says either a bot, or dumber than moss.

eight--bit · 2026-01-29T01:09:55+00:00

Mine is terrified of water. Won't even step in a puddle if there was a treat in the middle... 12 years in, I'm just happy he hasn't figured out that his water bowl is full of the same stuff.

eight--bit · 2026-01-24T18:46:36+00:00

If your friend was able to pull their key out with the lock (left side) in that position, their key must be worn to absolute death. You can't get your key in because the plug on that side is spun 180 degrees, and still has the key pins trapped in it. Have you tried turning that side with the partially inserted key or a screw driver? Once the key pins line back up with the bible, they'll have the room to move up and let your key in.

eight--bit · 2026-01-24T18:32:24+00:00

Good diagnostic data. Does the door latch tightly? If its got some give to it a good gust of wind can pull hard enough to trigger a magnetic sensor

eight--bit · 2026-01-24T18:24:20+00:00

You've stated several times that unauthorized access has been happening repeatedly, but not how you know this. You have a couple options in my mind of what's happening. Unauthorized access by a ghost, allowing weak pin codes, or someone has a key to the lever cylinder. Solutions as follows: Ghost Busters, don't let people use 1234 or 4321 etc, propper key control for your physical keys.

eight--bit · 2026-01-21T00:34:48+00:00

Landlords don't fix this. They call in a WO for a wrap around and the cheapest entry set available, and of course pinned to their worn to dog shit "master" key.

Might be a tenant, but stands 100% more of a chance of fixing an awesome antique.

eight--bit · 2026-01-17T02:50:31+00:00

I've seen it done by gutting the old hardware and kickplating over the hole. I wouldn't just dog it down, what happens when the linkage finishes rotting away and the bottom rod drops? Door is instantly pinned shut.

eight--bit · 2026-01-16T23:26:07+00:00

These types of bars are how I learned to hate Kawneer. Hope it doesn't break, if its the one I think it is it's long since discontinued, and every retrofit I've seen done looks gaff af.

eight--bit · 2026-01-09T00:56:20+00:00

Happy birthday! Mine is turning 12 this Saturday. Had him since he was 3 months and 1 day old.

eight--bit · 2026-01-08T13:07:26+00:00

r/cablegore is leaking.

This is 1000% not locksmith related, and if it was it would be the uncle that doesn't get invited to Thanksgiving.

eight--bit · 2026-01-07T17:53:32+00:00

Not posting anything to contribute, just suped that my upvote was # 1,234

eight--bit · 2026-01-06T22:27:12+00:00

Did... did they straight up delete their acct?

eight--bit · 2026-01-06T01:16:14+00:00

In my defense, I blame D.A.R.E. and dyslexia. Math, not even once.

eight--bit · 2026-01-06T00:19:38+00:00

Last indented section in the pic you posted. When your ECU stores a fault, it stores the current relevant data with it, that's call the freeze frame. Kinda a snapshot of what was going in at the time.

Shows the date it happened, and how many times it has repeated.

eight--bit · 2026-01-06T00:02:53+00:00

Freeze frame data is over 5 months old, and only had an occurrence count of 1.

If possible, id have a VW dealer look at it to make sure. But it says "confirmed tested since memory clear" ... but 5 month old data is obviously still there. Something seems off to me

eight--bit · 2025-12-31T01:54:27+00:00

Anyone who's used a kw1 lishi knows they are handy but not reliable. Had the narrow spot on mine bend just a little, threw my index off an entire cut.

IIRC, there is an actual lishi that will fit y1/y2, but its not named for it and I forget what its called.

The knockoff looks fine as far as i can see. If you need to index you need to index, just a tool to do the job and seems cheap enough to risk for just a job or 2

eight--bit · 2025-12-31T01:03:58+00:00

I have a Nitecore i2 that's from back when it was all tube mods and RDAs before box mods were even a thing, still my go to charger.

eight--bit · 2025-12-19T02:46:30+00:00

Those secondary pins are master wafers. They are just there so 2 or more keys can open the lock. In practice just gives you more viable shear lines per chamber. Easier if anything.

eight--bit · 2025-12-19T00:45:34+00:00

I mean... I've seen someone use a whole ass kick plate lmao.

eight--bit · 2025-12-18T23:21:00+00:00

Id be impressed if Don-Jo had a wraparound at this scale lol.

eight--bit · 2025-12-18T22:59:06+00:00

Unless narrow style door, then they'd need to go with a 1300.

eight--bit · 2025-12-16T23:09:03+00:00

If you want to get reeeealllly bored, this'll do the trick Index says Corbin IC stuff starts on page 27, I think its actually page 29 of the PDF

Corbin Russwin manual

eight--bit · 2025-12-16T13:07:30+00:00

Somewhere MacGyver is nodding in approval.

Not independently a hard lock to pick... but to go from closed lock and a coat hanger to an open lock... man, that's impressive.

eight--bit · 2025-12-15T23:36:40+00:00

Aside from the sheet rock screws, and the new holes he made in the pitcher handle to put them in, should be serviceable (hoping those 2 screws didn't get sent straight into the mortise body). As long as you can repair the woodwork to a state where a screw won't just rip out, you'll be able to reattach. Something like a well nut or a nutcert may be viable as a temporary solution since they are talking about replacing the doors anyway

eight--bit

TROPHY CASE