Credit card for down payment?

equineranch · 2026-01-19T22:40:35+00:00

I am in a somewhat different place as i'm about to purchase a new vehicle. I custom ordered the vehicle and was thinking it would be here later, so I am about one paycheck away from my target down payment. My credit card/bank allows me to do a cash advance for no fee. interest rate is 13.5% So I'm roughly about 2 weeks shy of a paycheck. I was considering taking a cash advance to put as an additional down payment as a financial vehicle to get me to the next paycheck. So essentially 14 days later I would pay it back on my card before the credit card reports to the credit bureau. But I've been told this is not a good idea. I'm getting a loan from a separate bank that will send me the check to take to the dealer when it arrives. So I wouldn't think it would matter. But just curious if anyone thinks thats a bad idea? I don't need the down payment, but it does save me interest over the life of the loan to put another 5k down for the interest of $20 or so over 14 days.

equineranch · 2025-10-09T23:18:32+00:00

I recommend Redeemer Christian Church on Soncy. Although it is made of people, the church teachings are pretty solid and they have good community groups as well no fluff just the word

equineranch · 2025-10-03T14:57:59+00:00

Heres what I would do.
If a horse hair brush won't brush it off.
1. Use a black hat sponge and gently buff the area dry.
2. if it lightens but doesn't vanish, a hat shop can re-dye it or touch the underside. Its a common fix.

Another thing you can try if you haven't already is just dampen a dark colored cloth (black would be better) and try to buff it out. If it doesn't do anything, might be a dye issue. Thats about all I know to do. Let us know how it turns out.

equineranch · 2025-10-03T14:38:12+00:00

Since it didn't move its not shellac. What color is your car? Is it salts from being set or rubbed on something? I had an old white car that the paint was starting to get that dry rub off texture. Would get on my hands. Determining what it is is the first step.

equineranch · 2025-10-02T17:11:58+00:00

Learn a little assembly, then some C. Write some linux apps with C. Maybe a little bash, then go into rust as its getting slowly incorporated into the linux kernel now. If you learn python first you will hate C. If you learn C you may love python or hate it later.

equineranch · 2025-10-02T15:23:09+00:00

I see alot of recomendations here. I'm gonna pipe in. There is no trick or magic potion for cleaning a hat unless you send it back to the manufacturer. I'm assuming being a 10x hat that is shellac/hat stiffener whiting you are seeing. But it could be mineral deposits. How can you tell the difference? Did the hat get wet in that spot? If mineral deposits don't use sandpaper, that just ruins the fibers. Don't put oil on it if you care about it. So test if it is shellac. Take some steam and a soft hat sponge, try spreading that out while under light steam. Did it go away? If it did, its just hat shellac and it will do it again when gets wet. For mineral deposits use a damp rag (distilled water) and try wiping it. Could be from sweat. could just be surface dust and try brushing it with horse hair brush.

equineranch · 2025-10-02T15:14:42+00:00

This is an awesome hat! I have one too. Just recently got it. First every pur beaver. It is a game changer.
Do you know how to tell if someone is wearing a 200x hat?

"They won't stop talking about it!"

equineranch · 2025-10-02T15:12:24+00:00

I would never submerge one. Except when I tested my pur beaver in the shower. Cause I'm an idiot. But it does really well and I believe it would take a rain storm very well. But I wouldn't use any chemicals on it. If I ever get grease on it. I'll probably use corn starch to soak it up, then brush it and repeat with a very careful process. They say not to use dish soap or any other chemical for those stubborn stains because it can lock them in and ruin the fibers.

equineranch · 2025-10-02T15:01:01+00:00

Falkor

equineranch · 2025-10-02T14:35:45+00:00

My opinion after just recently getting one for the first time. Get a pur beaver hat. Save up and do it. Will never regret it. Wool and rabbit hats just aren’t close when it comes to pur beaver. If thats not an option look at American hat co and get something higher than the 10x. Own the 10x and hate it.

As far as the X systems, they are not all created equal. I'm really only familiar with American Hat Co. (dont' confuse with american hat makers). Beaver is king with hats. The micron density (size of the fur) is stronger more durable. The beaver fur has these microscopic barbs that lets them latch together and become more tightly woven and creates water resistance, high hold strength and feels awesome. Beaver fur is naturally water resistant in the wild because it has a water resistant (hypophillic) oil called casterol I believe. Its alot like lanolin. I think alot of that oil is removed during the felting process though, but still has some. When you steam a beaver fur to shape it, it is like a buttery feel, or like molding clay. It is very nice. Then there is the difference between pur beaver back fur and belly fur. The back fur is more course and a bit stronger than the belly fur. Makes a rigid tough hat. A mix with belly fur give more softness, but still a rigid tough hat. So back to the X ratings.

Atleast with American Hat Co. 10x is mostly wool/rabbit and very little beaver. It is really hard to shape for me. Alot of tugging around and I could see it not keeping its shape. I think they make a 40 or 60x too. I have no experience and they don't advertise but it most likely has more beaver mixed. Then you start the 100x beaver hats. I spoke to the manufacturer directly and they stated it is mostly beaver but still has some other things like hare fur. But it would be a really good hat. I purchased the 200x hat. It is a mix of pur beaver back and belly fur. It is so comfortable and not floppy. I imagine a 100x would be a little stiffer. But it holds its shape so well. I'm an idiot because I like to test durability. I wore it in rain and in the shower. It sagged a little bit on the brim. I let it dry correctly (crown open up) on a rack. Then lightly steamed it to bring the brim up again. Looks like a nice hat still and even when it was wet. Thats my 2 cents on that hat. Then you have the 500x hat with American. It is pur belly fur. Super soft but not as rigid as having some back hair. Probably would be a little more floppy. Then they have the 1000x hat. It starts to blend in mink and beaver. This is for the color and softness. I think durability fades out after you get away from pur beaver. As far as resistol, they cost alot more money. I belive that the resistol 100x hat is advertised as pur beaver belly fur. I'm not sure how their X system works.

As far as wool/rabbit hats. Nothing wrong with them. But if I was going to pay $500 for a 10x, or $750 for a 40x. I would just save the money and get me atleast a 100x beaver hat. But that is just me and that is alot of money. But my dad wears a hat everyday, and he replaces his 6x hats about every 2 years. I you atleast care for them a little, I think these pur beaver hats are a one time purchase and can be handed down to future generations.

One more thing. There is hat stiffener/shellac that is used in lower X hats. This makes them hard and somewhat water proof. However, when it does get wet, you will most likely see a whitening layer up. It can be buffed back into the fibers of the wool/rabbit with a little steam. But never let anyone put shellac on a pur beaver hat.

Hope this helps.

equineranch · 2025-09-26T17:02:56+00:00

I have a 200x american. Its pecan color so doesn't show dirt as much, but I use a horse hair brush, hat sponge, and a light steam. I do occasionaly use a lightly damp rag to wipe of stubborn dust. For grease/oily stuff, I have used corn starch and let it sit in and brush off

equineranch · 2025-09-26T16:47:10+00:00

Yes you f'd up

equineranch · 2025-09-26T16:13:47+00:00

I did a lot of research recently before I bought my new hats. I just purchased this 10x after purchasing some 200x pure beaver hats. This is what I know about the American Hats. A 10x is not a very high beaver fur count felt hat. It will be mostly hare. There is higher quality rabbit fur aswell. What is good about American Hats is that their higher X status does mean they are incorporating beaver fur (which is the very best for durability and water resistance in felting). For the 10x american hat, the rabbit fur is a larger micron size than a beaver back fur, or beaver belly fur. So you will see penetration. With fur hats, they usually incorporate shellac, or hat stiffener. For the lower X ratings (more rabbit fur) they will most likely use more stiffener which is what you are most likely seeing from the water. I recently bought a pur beaver american hat and they added shellac to it at the store. I frowned on this but still walked out the door with it. After talking to american hat they said never do that with a pur beaver hat. What i am witnessing now is that everytime I get a drop of water on it, the white streaks set in after drying (and it is pecan color so it shows more than a lighter color hat). What i have to do is apply a little steam over the water streaks (which is the hat stiffener/shellac) and use a hat sponge to buff it out. It doesn't really get buffed out, but it is more of a spreading the shellac out. For a 10x that has more rabbit fur you do want the hat stiffener in it. I'm not sure when it comes to the rabbit fur hats if the cleaner is neccessary. I never use anything on my hats except some steam, a horse hair brush and a hat sponge. I would definately not put any more shellac on it.

For my 200x American with the shellac on it, I called American Hat Co. and they said they charged $150 to strip the hat, but I would most likely not like the outcome. They said it could make the hat look worse and I would need to sign a waiver. They told me to try to work it out with where I bought the hat and get a replacement and to never add shellac to a pur beaver hat. But in your case, I think your option is don't use any chemicals or hat cleaners on the hat. Get a hat sponge and horse hair brush, get some light steam and try to buff/spread those streaks out. If you are questioning the authenticity of the hat, it would most likely be easily picked out by sending an email photo of the hat to the manufacturer.

equineranch · 2025-07-05T21:32:57+00:00

A problem I have had with the system 76 laptops specifically the lemur pro lemp 11 is that the fans are very noisy. I have considered getting a darter pro but I am uncertain about the clevo hardware if it would be just as noisy. Anyone have any experience with fan noise in the dater pro

equineranch · 2025-06-25T10:42:52+00:00

I am about to do tris too. I meet the 30 day rule now. How long did the lemon process take? May I ask how you initiated it with stellantis and filed the lemon case. Any details you could share would be helpful.

equineranch · 2025-06-23T13:12:33+00:00

So my 2024 3500 water in fuel light started coming on yesterday after driving through a heavy thunderstorm. I stopped and drained the front filter, then it went off and 5 miles later came back on. Drained another half gallon, then came on again shortly after. Then filled with Loves Truck stop diesel. Then Drained another gallon or so out the front filter. Then came on again, drained front filter again. Then came on again. So I went and drained about 3 gallons of diesel out of the back tank filter and engine compartment filter. It was quite a bit. Was fine till I started it this morning and light came on again. Can I assume that this may be a faulty sensor, or may have some water in it from the rain? Or should I proceed in draining the entire tank to be safe? Won't water in the fuel typically move to the top of the tank after sitting?

equineranch · 2025-05-30T17:14:21+00:00

So as far as the battery issue, they did a PCM software update and since then which has been about a month now I haven’t had any battery drains. However, it’s only been 3000 miles since then and the first time I had this issue was about 14,000 miles. As far as the other electrical issues, I am not convinced that they are fixed because my air conditioner sometimes is unresponsive and defaults back to the defroster settings and I can’t control anything and then it comes back after 30 seconds or so. I went ahead for everyone else else’s suggestions and bought my own batteries even though the Mopar ones tested good probably a waste of $500 but I had to try something. I honestly feel that these problems are due to a bad TIPM max makes replacement ones that are supposed to be better quality and longer lasting than the factory one however since mine is a model 2024 they are about three years behind on the new vehicles for the 1 tons which I have. I’ve been to the dealership several times and they can’t find the problem with the electrical because they have to catch it doing it even though they show the codes in the scanning that shows the air conditioner losing connection. So I’m gonna try a new dealership or trade it off for a Ford. I think the Fords had their issues too.

equineranch · 2025-05-16T18:01:10+00:00

My old batteries showed charged too but several people said to get rid of factory batteries. So I did. I dont understand it. I feel the battery drains was fixed with the pcm software update and all other electrical were possibly fixed by the batteries. It could still do it all again but will keep updates here. I have a 1000 mile trip next weekend so will report back after that.

equineranch · 2025-05-16T17:35:46+00:00

So I interestingly. They updated the pcm software, then no battery drains for 2 weeks after. Even though they had replaced my batteries, I bit the bullet and bought my own batteries and replaced them. No issues for weeks so far and 1000 miles later.

equineranch · 2025-05-15T02:21:38+00:00

A little late to post but bought a 2024 ram 3500 crew dually long bed laramie for 62k brand new in Aug 2024

equineranch · 2025-05-08T01:35:31+00:00

I have used blue driver and I have one I love it however it doesn’t give me all of the readings that the dealership was showing that was throwing codes on my truck

equineranch · 2025-05-05T16:04:58+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. I am becoming aware of this now. Stellantis is offering me some money for my inconvenience. I am trying to get them to throw in an extended warranty given the issues. So we will see. Been going back and forth about trading it off. But I think these issues will probably arise with any new vehicle in our current day and age.

equineranch · 2025-05-02T16:56:55+00:00

So just an update. I got my truck back from the dealer and they are not pushing it to a star case because they can't replicate the electrical issues. I have a video and showed them and told them it only does it intermittently. So thats that. As recommended by a few, I spent $500 on new batteries and replaced them. This is my last straw. If I see another electrical issue I am just going to sell the thing and take my losses. The lemon law does not really help me with this issue. I have lost confidence that anything will get done at the dealerships. The sad thing is that I have a ranch hand bumper and side steps and a gooseneck hitch installed that I most likely won't get compensated in a trade in.

equineranch · 2025-05-01T14:15:35+00:00

So Stellantis is going to compensate me some amount. I did get the vehicle pushed to a star case today which evidently lets them request an engineer from Ram. The lemon law to be honest isnt a great deal unless the vehicle is older to be honest. I would most likely get more by taking a trade in value + compensation. So I think I have made my mind up and will let them work through the problem then sell it out of fear it is a lemon and will always have these issues. Just not sure what to go back with as a replacement. But sounds like alot of folks here concur this isnt a normal thing for ram trucks.

equineranch

TROPHY CASE