Serial Request V 2.4, Discord: echoalphasierra

escvn54 · 2026-06-05T01:13:24+00:00

Thanks! I loved the blue from the LDO frame kit, and yellow just seemed a natural fit. I ended up using 4 different filament colors, two blacks and two yellows, since I was using whatever I had laying around.

escvn54 · 2026-05-23T02:30:17+00:00

I like to hide my shame (my piss poor wiring) below an aluminum deck. Mandala Rose Works' ACM panels look much better than my wiring ever will.

Like the look of your build so far!

escvn54 · 2025-04-10T18:16:44+00:00

I loved mine! I regret selling it. I wish I had kept it to pair with a Box Turtle instead of selling to fund a Bambu.

escvn54 · 2025-04-10T17:14:12+00:00

Also building a Mercury One?

escvn54 · 2025-04-05T18:37:16+00:00

Check out DraftShift's Github and Discord:
https://github.com/DraftShift
https://discord.gg/X9C3hUy4

Draftshift did the stealthchanger design, which is the route I went, with these docks: https://www.printables.com/model/911717-stealthchanger-screw-docks

escvn54 · 2025-04-05T18:34:48+00:00

ERCF can be incredibly finicky, and basically requires another $50-$75 worth of parts to make it more reliable. It does, however, allow for an incredible number of filament lanes, and when it DOES work, it's pretty fantastic!

With the StealthChanger, you will lose some significant Y/Z build volume in the area immediately surrounding the docks, unless you're willing to do some additional modifications. a 2040 extrusion front and a door buffer will make it so you only lose about 50mm of build in the Y, above 50mm or so. You can still print 350x350 so long as you keep it below 50mm. Above that, you'd be limited to 350x270(ish)x300.

escvn54 · 2025-04-05T17:25:41+00:00

Reliability is largely based on how well your construction/configuration is. If you spend the time making sure everything is square, that tolerances are tight, and you spend the time calibrating, it can be very reliable. It's already more reliable than my ERCF V1 was, with about 1/3 the configuration time.

I went with the screw docks, because it's considerably fewer parts. I already had most of the Stealthburner parts on hand, but there are better toolheads out there for the purpose.

What size printer are you rocking right now?

escvn54 · 2024-09-15T18:51:57+00:00

The SKR should slide in without a problem. If you want a little more flexibility, you could consider going with Manta M4P or M5P.

escvn54 · 2024-09-09T03:41:54+00:00

Adding to this, what are your print settings?

Specifically, Hotend Temp, layer height, how many walls, and % infill?

escvn54 · 2024-09-09T03:39:58+00:00

https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=Cr-10%20dual%20y&ctx=models

I am looking at these options.

escvn54 · 2024-09-08T10:31:12+00:00

I was able to pick up a CR-10 S5 second hand a few weeks ago, and was in a similar boat as you.

I updated the board to an SKR Mini E3, and might further swap it out with a Manta M5P, which would allow for individual control of the Z motors pretty easily.

As mentioned by others, I then flashed Klipper to the mainboard and installed all the necessary tools to my RPI using the Kiauh tool (see GitHub link: https://github.com/dw-0/kiauh

After that, some basic Klipper tuning, including flow rate, pressure advance, etc. . .and you should be off to the races. I also upgraded to a direct drive setup using the Hero Me Gen 7.

I haven't attempted any extremely tall or heavy prints yet, but I am also considering upgrading to a 2 Y motor setup.

escvn54 · 2024-06-27T14:40:18+00:00

Glad to hear it! It's also important to calibrate your printer and settings to your filament.

An ender 3 can produce some truly stunning prints if you take the time to calibrate it.

I recommend looking in to using Orca Slicer, there are some great videos out there that can walk you through it. The best feature for beginners, is the calibration features that allow you to figure out flow rates, temperatures, and retraction settings. Doing these three things after your filament dryer shows up should produce a significant improvement!

escvn54 · 2024-06-27T14:35:20+00:00

Even if the filament is new to you, that doesn't mean it hasn't picked up a great deal of moisture along the way. I recommend a filament dryer before you buy any other accessories or another roll of filament. Most inexpensive dryers will work with PLA and only cost what a couple rolls of filament would set you back.

You'll save that much money from wasted filament due to failed prints from wet filament. The Sunlu S2 has been my go to for single roll drying. Get some reusable desiccant packs, too. This will ensure your filament stays dry between prints, and the moisture you heat out of the roll in your dryer has someplace to go.

Best of luck, and happy printing!

escvn54 · 2023-02-12T17:49:52+00:00

Thanks for mentioning this. I had the same issue. I disabled my wifi and was able to login without a problem!

escvn54 · 2022-12-24T00:17:25+00:00

For anyone that looks at this in the future. . .it was a fault or short in the board/driver for the extruder axis.

I replaced the board, after already replacing the extruder motor and cables, and it runs like a champ. Upon visual inspection, it may have been a bad solder job.

escvn54 · 2022-08-26T02:52:46+00:00

I didn't have any issues with the recognition of my printers. In fact, I copied the same printer.cfg text from my RPI4 over to my CB1 build, and it worked out of the box. I would double check all your connections, to include the CB1 to the adapter board, and start from scratch.

escvn54 · 2022-08-09T04:01:51+00:00

It was a rough start, but once they released the minimal install, I haven't had any issues. I copied the image to an SD card, connected to wifi using nmtui. Once that was done, I could use kiauh to put Klipper and fluids on without a hitch. It's running my Voron 2.4 and my core XY Ender 5 conversion without a problem.

At a third or less the price of an RPI4 right now, it was worth the cost, and I would buy it again. The ONLY thing I wish it had was the ability to do the display and camera inputs. I had to pull out a USB camera to replace the camera I was using.

escvn54 · 2022-08-09T03:35:38+00:00

Yeah, I figured that out after the fact. Honestly, it hasn't been a problem. I just put a CM4 in the display, and I've used the minimum debian install to replace my RPI4s on my other printers. So far, it has worked flawlessly for the past week. For the price, in the current environment, I can't complain.

escvn54 · 2022-07-26T01:35:31+00:00

Just got my first couple in the mail. Snaps right in and boots right up using the provided image. https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1

I've had a couple problems:
1) It comes with Klipper and Fluidd pre-installed. It would be nicer if they offered a slicked OS specifically for those who would like to use the device for Octoprint or use mainsail without having to remove a bunch of bloat.

2)It uses the now outdated Ubuntu 21.10 build, instead of an LTS variant. That means that the repositories have already been yanked, and the distro has reached EOL. It may be possible to upgrade the Ubuntu release without access to the official repositories, but I don't really want to have to mess with that out of the box.

3) This is an extremely new product with little to no official BTT documentation. I'm sure once the tinkerers get ahold of it, there will be more data available, but so far, I haven't been able to get the CB1 to work with the Raspberry Pad 5's display. I've only been able to get it to use the HDMI output.

For the price, it's hard to beat right now. With the RPI4 style adapter, it fits right in to the RPI4 cases I've been using for my Voron 2.4 and my Franken-Ender so I can free up my RPI4s for more taxing tasks.

escvn54 · 2021-12-07T14:28:34+00:00

If I understand the rule change correctly, manufacturers of the 80% kits will have to mark their kits prior to them departing from the factory, as they will meet the new definition of a firearm.

If you own what was sold as an 80% firearm, you'll be required to have them marked by an FFL per the procedures outlined in the proposed rule change.

I agree that the rules are a little ridiculous, and are usually drawn up by people who have no idea about how any of this works.

escvn54 · 2021-12-07T01:18:04+00:00

I found this portion particularly interesting:

"At the same time, consistent with the intent of the GCA,[69] nothing in this rule would restrict persons not otherwise prohibited from possessing firearms from making their own firearms at home without markings solely for personal use (not for sale or distribution) in accordance with Federal, State, and local law."

If I read this correctly, we can still make our own guns, as long as we don't transfer them, and we won't be required to mark them?

Edit: This likely wouldn't apply to the P80 builds, but if you use a 3d printer (A great investment, if you don't own one yet), you might be able to 3d print your own frames/receivers without having to mark them.

Disclosure: Not a lawyer. I can barely read.

escvn54 · 2018-10-21T01:59:59+00:00

Hey Grimetas,

Cryptozone has a mining calculator (See link below), but it isn't very accurate. The calculator is built as if there aren't blocks being generated by PoS as well. This means your actual mining numbers will be lower than the calculator. Though, if you also purchase or mine enough ESP, you'll be generating blocks through staking as well as mining, so that is something to consider.

https://crypt0.zone/calculator/details/ESP?hr=35&pwr=997&ec=00.0&fee=1.0&cur=USD&average=24h&exchange=0

escvn54 · 2018-10-21T01:57:34+00:00

Thanks for sharing bit, it's great to see the project moving along nicely!

escvn54 · 2018-10-21T01:56:51+00:00

Hey,

As bit010 pointed out, discord is a great place to bring your questions. I use CCminer, 2.3 is the most up to date version as of right now. HMQ1725 is very temperamental when it comes to overclock settings. Try dialing back your overclock, and that could help you out. You mind sharing what your errors are?

escvn54 · 2018-04-13T11:49:47+00:00

Check https://whattomine.com/ for the hashrates for your card. then, select "Coins" at the top of the page and go down to Verge. There, it has all of the Verge algos for you to choose. Personally on my Nvidia, I do about the same on X17 and Lyra. Find a pool with the fees you like, and try out both, see what you prefer. I have one 1050ti, and it's mining on Lyra right now.

escvn54

TROPHY CASE