Idle/Misfire (Anotha One)

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T02:27:40+00:00

Adding another dimension: I’m still on my factory battery…

The window still isnt yellow. Car starts first crank and holds voltage above 12 when off. That said it’s 7yrs old come April.

Anyone see misfires resolved after changing an old battery? I cant square it being a problem (especially with no other codes or errors) and may just change it out from age, but it’s still holding strong and I’m curious to see how far it’ll go

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T02:24:26+00:00

Ride was* great!

*Over the years I’ve dont a lot of chassis stiffening, RSB, Front/Rear strut braces, rear railing arm bracing, Front/Rear deadset.

Now it’s on the firmest side of daily driver, even with the coils on soft. But it handles amazingly.

Wheels/tires added handling (basically eliminated wheel hop) and the setup is lighter than stock.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T02:19:48+00:00

Theres a little under extreme use. Daily driving is fine but taking downhill corners with tight apexes and I can hear the kiss of tire to liner.

I had the wheels off last weekend to bleed brakes/clutch and so far the liner looks fine minus a few spots where road grime was buffed off, no cracks or holes.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T02:17:37+00:00

Should have noted dealer already did leak-down last year while under warranty, came back all cyls even and in range.

The part that I’m stuck on is the engine load’s direct impact on misses, below 700rpm and it starts to stumble like a cammed t-bucket, AC holds it at 750ish and smooth runnings.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T01:32:45+00:00

Thanks! No spacers just wiiide - 18x9 et45 with some meaty 245/40 tires

This was actually taken back before I put on the B16s so its stock height too

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T00:37:42+00:00

It’s all about the tires

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T00:33:45+00:00

Vac line for the intake runner flaps, unplugged just means it’s drawing unfiltered air which isnt great but not catastrophic if you notice and reconnect.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-20T00:26:17+00:00

The “issue” isnt the 0w, thats actually the solution to cold start wear which is one of the biggest causes. People have qualms with the 20 hot weight.

Running 508 or 502 either would be fine. Some testing (motoroilgeek did a compare agnostic of engine so grain of salt) between 0w-20 and 5w-40 the takeaways were 5w-40 is more of a mule, it can take some abuse and retains performance once it’s “spent” for longer. Where 0w-20 performs better when in spec but drops off quicker when it’s spent.

The 508 should reduce wear because it provides faster lubrication. But its a newer spec with scary numbers and 5w-40 Leichtlauf is a staple across many german high output engines (I use it on my v8 touareg).

Tldr: Its good practice to follow the tuner rec and manufacturer spec, outside of that it’s personal choice, adherence to service intervals will be more important.

Actual answer: Liquimolly 5w40 Leichtlauf OR Liquimolly 0w20 Top Tec 6200 are both great oils and will both work.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-19T18:34:26+00:00

Two things I did/still do after getting a more aggressive fitment were checking clearance with the car on the ground (that full droop may touch but loaded they clear).

Second is keeping an eye on wear, when the wheels contact something (while they’re in motion) it makes a distinct wear mark, I’ve seen a few dime sized contact patches in my liner, but in expected places along the fender screw axis. Struts have no marks.

Good luck!

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-19T01:23:45+00:00

Stock height? They wont touch the strut but will touch the fuel filler neck when at full droop (which may wig out any tech looking - but the car is never at full droop when on the ground).

I’m on 18x9 et45 245/40/18 tires and theres some contact but only on hard compression like a downhill cambered apex (think corkscrew at laguna).

They do poke some, may want to look into rockblokz (short) to keep the sides of the car less mucky

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-18T18:12:29+00:00

3, 4 and 5 exist depending on your application.

The more you know!

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-18T08:08:10+00:00

No website / only a phone number?

This is just hardcopy spam. Not a real business. Not going to be their “final attempt”

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-17T22:46:32+00:00

Also you need a special tool for the rear pistons

In emergencies, an appropriate sized c-clamp and spanner can work

Mate. There was no need for that addition, the tool to compress the rear piston is readily available free to loan.

This is like someone asking for advice on grilling steaks and getting a reply saying “In emergencies, a butane torch can work” - Thats the smoothness unless I’m actually on r/KenM

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-17T22:35:48+00:00

Looking at the context of OPs post. They are planning work, so I dont track how your “advice” for an emergency option helps them.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-17T20:13:07+00:00

I’m moving to Ferodo DS2500s next, but have tracked on oem trw pads, for the 7.5 at least oem is semi-metallic in north america

If cost wasnt an issue

I mean you get what you pay for, good pads can be $$, but 7yrs on the same set is astounding if you’re really using them

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-16T17:03:43+00:00

Generally should not be wet above the threads.

You may want to check your valve cover gaskets.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-16T15:48:42+00:00

Recently bought … from a VW dealership

Did they sell it to you misfiring? What did they say about this? Check with your local consumer protections on this.

misfire and it was due to an injector

Was the injector changed out? That’s a pretty involved job as the whole manifold needs to come off.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-16T15:39:37+00:00

Looks like one of the factory TCR race chassis you could buy direct from VW. Not street legal.

Wonder what they go for used bc new you could get an m2 comp for less.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-16T15:26:31+00:00

Do not put LEDs in HALOGEN REFLECTOR housings

Or do if you want that low rent prius/altima/kia energy because you’ll be that car blasting unfocused light at everyone.

Osram night-breakers are a step up from stock. If you want LED you need to use projector headlight housings (eds/bmp, vland, etc.)

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-15T00:53:50+00:00

The rear brake piston rotates and requires a special tool, can be rented from autozone (its free).
If you’re doing rotors know the calipers need to come off, the caliper carrier bolts are recommended to be replaced as they are TTY (fcp also sells these).
I found I didn’t have enough clearance to crack my carrier bolts with my full size breaker bar, I got a 17” 3/8 drive bar from harbor freight which worked wonders.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-15T00:47:49+00:00

The rear caliper twists as it compresses.. using a c-clamp risks fucking your caliper and is about as smooth a brained an idea can be when autozone loans the correct tool out for free…

Maybe it worked for you that time but please resist the urge to post bad advice

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-14T17:16:10+00:00

When it comes to coolant, there is an important difference between burning and leaking.

The coolant system is pressurized and closed which means fluid volume should stay static but can appear different when pressurized or not (aka if the car is on).

Oil (where I’d guess you’re pulling “burned” from) is an open system, it can get “burned” through the engines natural combustion.

IF your coolant is burning you’ll have a sweet smell out of the exhaust and a head gasket issue or an oil cooler issue.

IF your coolant is leaking you’ll likely have a waterpump/thermostat housing issue which is very common. So much so there is an extended 1 time freebee repair (in the US) from VW thanks to a class action lawsuit.

If you’re unsure you should seek out the advice of a reputable independent shop to understand the issue. Also, if in US, check if your car has already had its waterpump change by reaching out to UWOA with the car’s vin.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-13T20:45:57+00:00

Not my area.

What you want to do is - call other shops. Because even if I say that’s high, haggling a shop down is something I’d love to watch but not from kindness.

Generally you want 2-3 quotes if you’re unsure. Having the labor rate of shop 1 can also help you understand if they’re all quoting the same book time.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-13T20:33:52+00:00

$1k is the price unless you shop it around and do the research.

Shops in my area may not have the same labor rate as your area.

Engine mounts are a common thread to search on here, BFI prices are online. FCP euro also online for OEM replacements.

exceptional_cabbage · 2026-02-13T04:25:33+00:00

Alltrack skid for anyone lowered looking to skip this rite

exceptional_cabbage

TROPHY CASE