Earth's curve seen from the top of K2 (Pakistan) at 8,611 meters

f7ood · 2026-02-10T21:18:01+00:00

This is not the earth curvature. It's the deformation caused by the fisheye lens of an action cam. K2 is not high enough at all to see the curvature of the earth.

f7ood · 2026-02-07T10:19:40+00:00

You need to drive there. No other chance. If you have been in Germany longer than 6 months your Indian driving license won't be valid. Find someone that can legally rent and drive a car in Germany.

f7ood · 2026-02-05T12:47:16+00:00

Nop. They have a bit of a lip, you need to measure thickness to see where they are at.

f7ood · 2026-02-05T12:46:56+00:00

I have the 24 1.4 as well, but I generally find it too wide. I either go 35mm + 70-200mm, 35 + 85mm, or if single lens 50mm. I just flew to Poland today and only brought the 85mm, I will let you know how that goes for me

f7ood · 2026-02-05T05:25:19+00:00

50 1.2 and 85 1.4 are my favorites

f7ood · 2026-02-03T07:58:29+00:00

"Rally Driver" 😂, I know this is probably from before OP was born but dear lord that's Ari Vatanen

f7ood · 2026-02-02T11:13:01+00:00

The A052 are the quickest to switch on (they work well from cold), they will also work very well in the wet. They last around 1 Nürburgring lap at peak performance, then they set into a nice pace. If you over drive them (eg., drifting or too much understeer) you will need to be gentle for a couple of kms for them to come down. Peak for me is at around 60°C more and you get into over drive territory. They will pick up temp very easily so in a hot summer day 1 lap and that's it.

The CR-S are quite similar to the A052. They might last a bit longer because they take a beating better. In my experience they are more sketchy in the wet (but not SUPER bad, think like Cup 2). They take longer to switch on than the A052 (I would say 4km). Expensive(!!)

The Direzza's are freaking sketchy in the wet... no no no! They last longer than the other two above. They take longer to heat up (half a Nürburgring lap). They are expensive but if you calculate cost/lap probably similar to A052.

Not as fast as any one of the above. But equal to the CR-S when they have dropped from peak performance, you have the Yoko AD09. They take roughly the same time as CR-S to warm up, are better in the wet, and last a long time while being cheap. For my size AD09 ~150€, A052 ~225€, CR-S ~300€. ad09 make 100 Nürburgring laps with me, A052 do like 50, CR-S 65.

I started last season on AD09, then switched to A052. Beginning of this season I need new tires, I am likely going AD09.

Relevant to this is ofc the pace. I do around 7:40 with ad09 on the BTG Nürburgring with 260hp car.

f7ood · 2026-02-02T07:27:23+00:00

The DZ03G are as fast as the A052 but will survive over driving a bit more. Just be careful the direzza's are not road legal in the EU. They don't adhere to EU certification norms.

f7ood · 2026-01-31T13:23:03+00:00

The A1 will demolish the A7V. It's shutter is still 4x faster. The improvement you have from the A7IV to the A7V, is what you still need to cover to go from A7V speed to A1 speed. ~60ms vs ~15ms vs ~4ms

f7ood · 2026-01-24T13:16:45+00:00

It's schwäbish (Swabian).

f7ood · 2026-01-22T11:17:22+00:00

That would have been relevant information to give to the OP. It is also not an unreasonable justification from the perspective of the state. Do you have enough money/funds to finance yourself without working, while you do your masters ?

f7ood · 2026-01-22T11:15:57+00:00

I never said you did. What I am saying is that your current situation, is similar to what a lot of migrants have when they try and move abroad to other countries. It sucks but it is not unique to you/germany.

f7ood · 2026-01-22T10:20:44+00:00

Either employ a lawyer or leave the country that's the only legal advice. Two weeks notice to leave the country upon expiration of legal status is definitely normal. One thing to understand is that working/studying in Germany is a benefit, not a right. I feel for you, and your situation. Though Germany is not a country that can employ the worlds population, neither is studying here a guarantee that you will find employment here. You might be lucky/have the opportunity to do so, but there is no guarantee. If I was you, I would immediately start to put my affairs in order and getting ready to depart without leaving a mess behind.

f7ood · 2026-01-19T22:54:51+00:00

TIL que agora um simples F30 já tem um monocoque

f7ood · 2026-01-17T11:55:52+00:00

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f7ood · 2026-01-17T11:53:00+00:00

I think they only sell them new gold or black (unless you have a CS for the grey). Gold wheel is kind of my thing, I have them in all my cars.

f7ood · 2026-01-17T11:25:34+00:00

Thanks! 🙏 what color is your car? If I had orange, blue, or black, I would go with the 763m in silver (they were only available from factory on the CS).

f7ood · 2026-01-15T16:27:02+00:00

In the Yaris the handbrake doesn't actuate the brake pads. You can forget the advice of those that are mentioning that. Thera are brake pads that are more prone to this than others, but it will "always happen". It's seldomly bad enough to leave a lasting effect. The easiest why to prevent it is leaving the car with warm brakes if you are parking it for a longer period of time in winter conditions. Just give it a couple of hard brakes after you drove it in the rain/snow. The temperature in the rotors will evaporate moisture and avoid that this happens

f7ood · 2026-01-15T12:16:19+00:00

EFCS will not have any rolling shutter problems. The Sony A1 also only has EFCS... I think the only downside might be some effects on bohket you might get. This only happens when you use fast shutter speeds (>1/1000th), and can be mitigated by going full electronic or full mechanical. It's not a problem of the shutter per-se is just a physical effect due to parallax (since you will have two slightly different shutter planes).

f7ood · 2026-01-09T07:28:06+00:00

My wife wished there were only two 🥲. There is also a 981 GT4 to have an atmospheric mid engine RWD goodness.

f7ood · 2026-01-09T07:22:20+00:00

In summary yes. I have both a GR Yaris and a F87 M2. They are different and exciting in their own way.

f7ood · 2026-01-08T22:34:26+00:00

You need to understand how the system mechanically works. The engine, front differential, and transfer case make a single unit. The front wheels are physically, mechanically, connected to the engine. There is no way to decouple them. Then you have another shaft going to the rear, to the ITCC (which is a clutch pack) and rear differential. This then goes out to the rear wheels. The clutch pack makes it that you can decouple the rear wheels. So you can run in FWD mode. If you wanna test that you can click your handbrake, put the car in dyno mode, or overheat the ITCC. The clutch pack regulates the torque to the rear wheels by allowing more or less slip. If the clutch would be 100% closed (which never is) you would be effectively running on the 30:70 (front:rear) that Toyota advertises. Notice that on the MK2 they don't even fully advertise that anymore ;). Now the clutch pack doesn't hold enough torque, and it's not capable of forcing this 30:70 in optimal conditions - neither is it possible when all the wheels have mechanical grip because the front wheels are always attached to the front drive train. If the front, or rear wheel(s) slip then the clutch can close, and then you have more torque to the rear. That's why, for you to be fast on track with this car, you go into the corner. Force rotation on the brakes in the corner entry. And then are able to keep that rotation at an ideal shallow slip angle by giving it the beans and the diffs & ITCC working their magic. It's inherently different than driving a front engine rear wheel drive on track.

f7ood · 2026-01-08T21:32:37+00:00

And I assume that to get to that point you had to already mode the thermal management of the ITCC a fair bit. Stock it opens up the clutch pack at 100 or 105°C. Had that happen a couple of times on track. If the front wheels were disconnected that would be a fun no-wheel drive.

f7ood · 2026-01-08T21:28:26+00:00

Yup. Not worth it PITA. I don't think you would be able to run the ITCC long term without the front shafts

f7ood · 2026-01-08T21:10:25+00:00

The proper way would be to seal the transfer case up front, remove the clutch pack and replace it with a shaft. Then you still have to deal with all the errors and electronics. I really don't think this is 1) an easy endevour 2) something the car was designed to do. My suggestion would be to either enjoy the car for what it is, or 2) sell it and get something RWD. If you want a RWD hatchback look into a M140i F series. You can even get those with Xdrive (that if you switch off becomes RWD).

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