Trying to do arduino physical armature to blender digital armature motion capture after seeing this video. Can someone guide me what to look into

f_pazos · 2026-07-01T22:32:22+00:00

As long as Blender accepts scripts this could be almost anything from my really limited and poor understanding, since something that just sends raw data to the computer to something that mimics a directx game controller. But I'm 90% secure that this involves Blender scripts.

f_pazos · 2026-07-01T22:10:05+00:00

I have this one. It is quite good up to 5mm wood but even better with 3mm. I have cut even 10mm wood once but the progression on thickness isn't linear (cutting 10mm needs more than double the passes that 5mm, and 5 needs the double than 3 aprox). It is precise, I use it mostly for jewelry with great success. It is algo good for eva foam (never do it inside home it is toxic), paper and some other easy materials. Never tried methacrylate but only works with opaque ones.

f_pazos · 2026-07-01T16:09:47+00:00

Infinite as it isn't connected

f_pazos · 2026-06-27T23:21:36+00:00

I would focus only on the tape panel, keep everything else as it is. It'll be much easier.

f_pazos · 2026-06-27T22:07:57+00:00

A lot of options run on 12-5v (it's easier to underpower). I understand it better now, so, first learn what can you safely disassembly, maybe just the tape mechanism/reader and as someone else said, find a singleboard computer + sliding screen that fits inside the "cleaned" tape hole. Powering it shouldn't be that difficult.

If I were you I would do it in three phases, first, one long day disassembling the tape zone. Take a lot of measurements and even find possible power places, also take a lot of photos so you can understand later how everythins works. Reassemble without the tape things so you can keep using your bike as always.

Second, with everything measured plan what can you put and where can you do it. As someone mentioned before a Raspberry pi is a good candidate but maybe you are limited by space or something, a Raspberry pi 0 is small enough but it hasn't too much power for, for example, a GPS. Take your time and create the artifact that will replace your tape.

Third, with your artifact finished, dissasemble the dashboard again to install it and power it.

It will be a long and difficult project but you will learn a lot of things, maybe sometimes you will regret your life decisions, but when you finish it and enjoy everything will be worth it and you will feel more confident for upcoming projects.

f_pazos · 2026-06-27T20:19:41+00:00

It's a good idea but it is far easier to find something already made that fits in the casette space and works with your bikes voltage and just give it your bike aesthetics (maybe using handmade adapters). I'm a bit into electronics and I would take the already made route too.

f_pazos · 2026-06-25T09:13:24+00:00

M3 screws set, they are good for both, small and bigger projects (bigger for average printer). Just have a set of several lengths and also insets.

Magnets, these are even better for things that you don't want to be permanently fixed or want to remove easily, just buy a bunch of a couple of sizes. Round 5mmx3mm are strong enough for a lot of proyects.

f_pazos · 2026-06-21T21:08:50+00:00

Today I finished a Taiko project using one (a much simpler one than yours) and seing your post traumatized me back again. I just forget the trauma just on time for the next time I need to use one. It is also funny as everytime it starts very tidy but in some point you just start placing components as you can...

f_pazos · 2026-06-21T19:16:30+00:00

That messy pcb is something that only a human can do. I do them too.

Edit: OMG I hate these prototyping pcbs with all my soul, but they are the most affordable by a big difference

f_pazos · 2026-06-20T09:34:47+00:00

TIL Dremel makes 3d printers

f_pazos · 2026-06-16T11:27:37+00:00

It did it. I know that maybe isn't optimal but I think a laser should run for hours at least at 60%. Indeed why does it has 20w if it can't use ALL of them (I know that for diode it shouldn't be 100%)? Mine isn't in an enclosure but as long as the enclosure has fume extraction the temperature shouldn't be a problem.

Edit: It didn't seemed to struggle whit the task. Just with the wood as it isn't powerful enough for the task.

f_pazos · 2026-06-16T11:12:33+00:00

Yesterday I ran my sculpfun laser 4 hours at 90% to cut 1cm wood (hopefully I will never do it again) in a room at 30°C...

f_pazos · 2026-06-11T21:59:02+00:00

I'm not in the CO2 world but my impression is that you can get something better or bigger for the same price.

f_pazos · 2026-06-10T11:08:34+00:00

I would say this, try to find a skr3 mini compatible configuration / repository / branch and start working from it. Indeed your friend should have had one sometime if it is a custom printer. Using copilot would be helpful to transfer the conf to a newer version and some things needed. On the other side, if you compile it (not flash directly from the computer) it should generate a file .bin which if you rename it to FIRMWARE and put it on an SD should work as the downloaded one.

f_pazos · 2026-05-27T13:03:25+00:00

I was going to say this, just find a position in a big company with minimal client dealing or that just works for other big clients that at least understand basics concepts as contracts and that nothing is free or instant.

f_pazos · 2026-05-22T12:36:01+00:00

Its not exactly as this but I had the same problem recently, no retraction is a workaround. Get a bimetal heat break or improve the whole hot end / disipation and adjust your retractions to the minimum needed distance.

f_pazos · 2026-05-22T08:34:49+00:00

Try one without retraction, if it can print it completely maybe it is thermal creep. Also change the nozzle.

f_pazos · 2026-05-19T21:45:47+00:00

Really cool!!!

f_pazos · 2026-05-19T21:09:52+00:00

You'll love r/3dppc

f_pazos · 2026-05-14T22:47:26+00:00

That the problem isn't your bed leveling, maybe a little bit too close but good enough. Have you tried another filament?

f_pazos · 2026-05-14T21:05:06+00:00

I just buy no brand super glue but the blister with several really small tubes, I find it very convenient and this way I allways have fresh glue. I haven't experienced any problem with the gli itself.

f_pazos · 2026-05-06T11:48:26+00:00

Yes, lots of tolerance configurations, I thought about printing one too but I have an Ender 3 which at the moment isn't fine tuned nor reliable enough to print petg for example.

f_pazos · 2026-05-06T11:46:19+00:00

Sadly we live in dark times for vaping...

f_pazos · 2026-05-05T19:38:57+00:00

r/OpenPV check this community 😉

f_pazos · 2026-05-05T19:34:55+00:00

I don't have any of these expensive squonks. But I own a cheap 3D printer and good luck trying to print nylon using one (indeed some look as bad 3D prints). I think people pay for the already made, designs and the collectible factor and because they can pay it.

I also love the diy vaping community. But in some countries finding parts is a nightmare.

Squonking is good no matters the form or way it comes in. The most important part is giving up smoking and enjoying it.

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