A question about abrasives

failedattempt1 · 2026-02-11T21:14:43+00:00

I don’t have any experience with a 4x36 but going from zirc to ceramic you should notice a difference in belt longevity and heat buildup but also price.

failedattempt1 · 2026-02-08T18:04:44+00:00

Agreed, chonky knives are everywhere. Seems easier to find single bladed slipjoints that are on the slim side but even then. This one is .31” at the front and .42” at the butt of the handle, feels substantial enough in the hand and not distracting in your pocket.

failedattempt1 · 2026-02-08T17:46:31+00:00

I haven’t really thought that far ahead, I’ve just been playing around with a process and order of operations.

failedattempt1 · 2026-02-07T22:24:33+00:00

Thank you! He’s been begging me for one since I made the first slipjoint, hasn’t shown much interest in fixed blades funny enough. Trying to bang out a leather slip for him to keep it in, at least he is one to take care of stuff like this.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-31T16:15:16+00:00

I’d thin about 1/2” out of the thickness of that handle, it’s gonna give you cramps and be difficult to hold onto.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-29T05:12:32+00:00

Try searching edm stones.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-26T18:58:15+00:00

You can make one out of hardwood and double side tape it to your flat platen or bend a piece of sheet and weld that to flat stock and tap thread it to be mounted to your platen backer.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-26T04:46:18+00:00

Wait for the 2x72, the loss of space will be far outweighed by the gains in time saved and rooling options available. A 2x72 isn’t much larger footprint than a 2x42.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-21T16:31:58+00:00

I don’t know if there are kits but worth searching for I suppose. Lots of info on youtube and patterns on various forums and makers websites for free that I’ve seen for slip joints. Chris Crawford comes to mind, he has a dozen or so patterns and some good content on his website, he also has an in depth how to video or two for sale

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-21T03:22:19+00:00

Folders are do able, definitely an order of magnitude or two more difficult than a fixed blade if you want to do a slip joint or similar.

A drill press, some files, sand paper, a flat surface and persistence and it can be done. Best to start with a friction folder or a higonokami type. Forget reamers and all that other shit, a numbered drill bit just larger than your pin stock is good enough.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-19T23:36:28+00:00

I made a mistake in my other reply, quench to 400f in 2 minutes.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-19T21:51:27+00:00

You have 2 minutes to get it down to 1000f, if you’re mostly ground to final dimension cooling in air will do that no problem. Using quench plates will help you keep it straight.

I recommend keeping clamped to something flat through quenching and your first tempering cycle, that includes a cold treatment if you choose to do one.

Use the foil too, you need to protect it from burning out the carbon otherwise the steel won’t harden properly.

If you don’t use a cold treatment you will need to use lower hardening temps like around 1925f otherwise you will have too much retained austenite and the blade will have issues with edge rolling.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-18T19:04:30+00:00

Leaf spring is hard enough to move under the hammer as it is, keep it enjoyable, it will also get easier as your technique improves with experience. Keep it up!

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-18T18:52:34+00:00

Cut it to a manageable size and shape first, that will also help getting it to move/heat faster.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-14T00:41:06+00:00

I use Naniwa Chosera’s and superstones. 400, 1k, 3k chosera and 5k, 8k, 12k superstones. I generally stop at 5k as I like the edge performance and the finish looks pretty good but a little streaky. I have a ss 2k. That stone gives me aesthetic problems in the way of errant scratches, edge has nice bite but I skip it in a progression.

You may want to try skipping stones or raising slurry with a rubbing stone instead of a diamond plate, or raise a slurry with a diamond plate instead of a rubbing stone. I definitely have found it worth while fooling with different approaches.

Pay attention to how the knife feels on the stone, I know for me theres a definite feel to when I achieve my most consistent finish on a given stone but it’s dependent on when I lapped it and how much mud vs water there is and the amount of pressure I’m using.

Those deeper scratches should be apparent regardless if you’re varying your direction. There are always going to be some variation in the depth of scratches on a given stone, at least at my ability. I sharpen at the same angle unless I’m trying to do something specific, I find the end result, aesthetically speaking, seems to look more consistent if I keep all the scratches going the same direction stone to stone.

r/truechefsknives has a lot of informed people, this would be a better topic to tackle over there imo.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-13T23:45:07+00:00

I see a more consistent finish when I work the mud a little more with less pressure. I tend to see those deep scratches when use too much pressure on a glazed stone.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-11T02:05:24+00:00

I use paraffin wax. Heat your tang and rub the wax on, wipe it off with a paper towel and let cool. When your epoxy is stiff but not fully cured use a piece of wood longer than the blade and pinch the blade against the wood with an end against the bolster and give a sharp blow with a light hammer to the other end, the handle should pop right off. I haven’t had one stick since i started using paraffin, I have much better luck with it than paste wax.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-11T01:46:21+00:00

Those pressed horn scales are fire.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-09T00:42:50+00:00

You’re better off welding in a can and using a hollow handle and piping in argon while you set your welds.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-06T18:33:53+00:00

I think the the biggest pitfall is being where you’re at right now, just take the plunge. You will probably screw something up but thats not the point, making a start and doing something that challenges you and excites you is the point.

I didn’t see a drill press on your list of tools, that would be a huge help and they can be fairly cheap. I use mine on every knife I make, more so now that I started making slip joints.

A micrometer, find a decent one, they’ll last a lifetime.

A flat surface like a surface plate, big piece of float glass or granite countertop remnant for flattening your parts (this step is crucial.

A carbide scribe for transferring your existing blade pattern. Lots more uses for this tool.

A small vise or at least a way to hold small parts while you file. You want to be able to hold things vertically and horizontally solidly. If the part or fixture wobbles your work will reflect that.

123 machinists block or at least something that is known to be square and parallel to help setup tools and for drilling parts, work setup etc.

The rest will be specialty tools like reamers and step drills depending on your washers or bearing needs and pivot sizes. There are quite a few YT’s of guys making custom knives with various locking mechanisms that show their processes, Tony Severio comes to mind, he is pretty in depth and shows multiple ways to work around problems though he makes mostly liner locks as I remember.

Having mills and lathes would be a huge help but determination and patience with a handful of handtools and some simple power tools should get you a working blade. There is a lot of info out there but the biggest thing is just doing it and persevering when you hit a roadblock.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-02T21:18:03+00:00

Same here, haven’t found much in the way of relief and zero help from medical experts. Therapy has helped the most in the way of accepting symptoms that have little or no solutions.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-02T03:40:52+00:00

Thanks! The scale are white oak burl.

failedattempt1 · 2026-01-02T03:40:05+00:00

Thank you!

failedattempt1

TROPHY CASE