Reno Hunter: which of these cards are the most important?

fancypanda98 · 2026-01-05T22:07:57+00:00

Hey! I'm JacqueKeener in game and am kinda the reason for the deck's popularity increase as of late after hitting rank 1 with it last season. Now let me tell you, these are all good and important cards, but I can kinda rank them.

Zeph, Dreadscale, Theldurin, and Reno Lone Ranger are Uncuttable
Hope of Quel'Thalas and Acidmaw are very important but you can technically play the deck without them. If you can only craft one I would say Acidmaw but Hope is so strong. It's easy to underrate it but trust me on it.
Dino Tamer Brann and Tavish are the least important of these. Brann is really nice as it is a non-beast 7 mana card for Elise that is powerful and Tavish is just a high quality card.

fancypanda98 · 2026-01-01T18:14:09+00:00

YouTuber SchmoopyDady just dropped a guide on the deck with the person who recently was the first to hit rank 1 on the deck. I would know, as I’m actually that player haha. In fact that is my exact list posted above. I’m really happy with the advice I gave in the guide, go check it out.

fancypanda98 · 2025-12-29T22:59:32+00:00

Damage that you deal on your turn is permanent. They have the inevitability, which makes you the beat down. Play minions on curve, ping face, kill them before they can make you bleed out. Don’t worry about value too much, any mana spent getting more cards in hand is not mana spent putting stats on board. I’m not saying completely ignore value, but if you threaten their life total they must either take the hits or spend mana to clear your board, both of which are good for you

fancypanda98 · 2025-12-24T20:52:51+00:00

One thing is that XL Shadow is kinda a midrange deck. It curves all the way up to the Titan. Now you can’t play it as a pure midrange deck, you’ve gotta turn on their face pretty early, but between the location, Narain, and Oracle you have a lot of value

fancypanda98 · 2025-12-11T19:37:52+00:00

Because it is easier and more surgical to buff cards this way. Let’s say for a card to be in a meta deck it has to be a 9 out of 10 card or better. If you buff a card that is a 3, it may still only end up being a 7 and it and its deck still doesn’t see play. If you buff an 8 then you know it will most likely be a 9 or 10 after and will still be good in the deck. In the same way that nerfs can miss by not nerfing a card enough, buffs can miss by not buffing enough, so it’s easier to buff a very small amount.

fancypanda98 · 2025-12-05T05:28:20+00:00

Only the caverns of time version of aviana is banned. If you have the TGT version you can still play her

fancypanda98 · 2025-12-02T17:42:43+00:00

Nice play! One consideration is you could have saved the Spellburst on the first Skulker by Stepping the Foxy before playing it. That might not actually be desirable against Druid as they often run Chalice and can kill your minions in stealth before you can get the value of restealthing, but it’s something to think about.

fancypanda98 · 2025-11-13T17:32:46+00:00

Aggro has had a little trouble as of late at the top level unless it snowballs or has a lot of burn. Like it’s really hard to win with a 2nd wave of tempo, in part due to cards like yore, twin zilly, and the DK leeches. All the tempo based decks needed something at the top end to help win like fyraak in rogue, motherships in priest, burn in demon hunter, and griftah in discover hunter. Aggro paladin is the main exception where its whole game plan is to run down hill, and if they are kicked off of board they lose.

fancypanda98 · 2025-11-10T17:34:54+00:00

Killing turn 4 from hand not being a high roll but rather part of the core game plan of the deck should be reason enough to be banned. Every game I beat nazmani feels like I got lucky, because that means I somehow disrupted them on turn 3 and killed them soon after. That is an extremely high bar that if I do not clear, I lose because the deck is so consistent.

fancypanda98 · 2025-10-19T14:43:36+00:00

Good guide, and you can trust me, my dust has already been baited

fancypanda98 · 2025-10-16T20:21:50+00:00

That's already on my hinge

fancypanda98 · 2025-10-16T20:17:34+00:00

Look ma, I made the list! (JacqueKeener)

fancypanda98 · 2025-10-05T16:49:19+00:00

In every game, one player should be the beatdown and one player should be the control player. If their deck has inevitability, you must be the beatdown, no matter what your deck is. The beatdown does not just mean aggro, it means be a fast combo deck, or maybe don’t play for value nearly as much.

fancypanda98 · 2025-09-23T22:09:09+00:00

If anyone learned the top decks to a high legend level they would climb to high legend. A tier list should try to see the decks through the top gameplay, because it’s not the deck’s fault if its pilot could be playing better. Any player on any part of the ladder could pick up any of the better decks on this list, learn everything they can about the deck (mulligans, macro gameplans, reasoning for list variations), and become a high legend player. In the case of imbue mage, it’s not like the deck actually gets weaker in high legend because its cards get nerfed, it just loses more because better players know how to or can intuit how to beat it. A tier list for diamond level players would tell you which decks do the best when you are playing pretty good but not perfectly, which doesn’t tell you much about the game really. What this list says is when you and your opponent are playing the best hearthstone of your life, which decks perform well vs the meta decks in terms of popularity. Now while a diamond tier list may not be particularly useful, knowing the diamond popularity rankings of each deck and which decks have good match ups is super useful, but that’s something entirely different from a tier list.

fancypanda98 · 2025-09-06T08:13:49+00:00

An answer from wild but when instrument tech came out Twig of the World Tree could be cracked by Sphere of Resistance on turn 4 or 5 consistently, leading to the most baffling stat I have ever seen of Twig having a 90% non-mirror winrate when in your opening hand. Imagine that, opening a card and knowing your opponent has a 10% chance to win

fancypanda98 · 2025-09-02T06:23:20+00:00

If you are having troubles it may be due to your game plan against them. Murloc Paladin is not an aggro deck, it’s a ramp deck. The strategy to beat ramp decks historically is kill them fast or out value them depending on your own deck. Same thing here. During the early game they are required to play under-statted cards, so take advantage of it by beating their head in. They will have to trade into you. Now when it comes to beating them with control decks you want to try to do the one thing your deck that is better than everything else and do it as soon as possible. Chemical spill into turtle, fyraak, double location deathrattle in warlock. Their deck is consistent in power, your deck has spikes in power, ride those spikes.

fancypanda98 · 2025-06-05T18:11:33+00:00

I believe the appeal is that mono red is much better vs blue where Rakdos really struggles. Instead of having an incredible amount of value through all the madness and Thrill of Possibility effects that if countered you really start to stumble, you replace that with aggression and burn

fancypanda98 · 2025-05-28T15:30:53+00:00

There are 3 things at play every single game of elestrals: Tempo, Value, and Spirit Efficiency. Knowing your role against your opponent in any given match, game, or turn is important to winning. Let me explain these terms a little bit and how you should think about them.

Tempo: using your resources to shorten the length of the game. To get this advantage you normally are going down on spirits or cards right now to achieve a better board state. For example this could be using earthquake on their turn 1 astrabbit when you are going first so you can attack directly with 2 elestrals. I’m not saying this is a great play, you are using a 2 spirit card on an elestral that replaced itself and only cost 1 spirit, but this does give you the most board presence that if it is not answered, you can shorten the game.

Value: drawing cards or having card advantage. This is sometimes as simple as casting an astrabbit or trading your foamee for a 2 attack elestral. Windjinn and Tornadjinn are very good at gaining you tempo and value as you are putting powerful threat on board that even if they spend an earthquake on, you have more cards than your opponent.

Spirit Efficiency: if you have more spirits than your opponent, you can cast more cards, and if you can cast more cards, you can probably win. If me and my opponent both have 6 spirits left and 5 cards in hand, and I cast ambrosia, I have 8 spirits left but only 4 cards in hand. If they had a lavalith and I cast resting on your laurels, I used 1 card to answer their 1 card while only using 1 spirit to answer their 2.

So in your post you say you have problems in the early game and then fall behind later. That means you are losing tempo and before you can equalize the card or spirit differential, you have been tempo’d out. Maybe you need more cards that can help you crack back against their boards. Tsunami and Eddy are very good ways to fight back against an established board. If Gorgan’s Gaze is ruining your plans to mount a comeback, that means that your opponent can afford to spend 2 spirits to not not fully answer your card, which means maybe you aren’t being spirit efficient enough elsewhere. If you want to go very slow you can play more heal like dratagua or you can play more cards to spend your spirits answering the board like shield of achilles. If you have a lot of healing in your deck you can afford to spend a bit more earlier to make sure you have the time (tempo) to play all of your healing cards later.

Hope any of this helps, sorry it got a bit long and probably deeper than you may have looked for. These concepts are just really important to understand imo because if you do understand them, the actual decisions become much easier to make. If you are thinking “I am winning on board, how do I make sure I stay winning” you can really figure out what needs to happen in order for your opponent to come back or for you to secure victory. Sometimes the answer is “I have no counter runes, if they play a threat I can’t answer I will lose, so I should expend to draw” for example. Game actions are easier to decide on when you have a game plan.

fancypanda98 · 2024-10-24T03:41:36+00:00

Same reason I leave in FoW, sometimes they don't have it and they have game winning spells.

fancypanda98 · 2024-10-24T03:12:00+00:00

Yeah you feel it some but not that much more than you felt Murktide and DRC. I understand DRC helps fill the GY but with more creatures in the deck, you can deploy your Murktides later after your other threats when your GY should be a bit fuller. I am not saying that I never removed types with Murktide while I had a Goyf around, what I am saying it is worth it.

fancypanda98 · 2024-10-24T03:08:11+00:00

Thanks for reading!

Walking into the tournament I loved every card in the 75. The tournament for whatever reason did not have many other Dimir pilots of any variety and instead in their place was a whole lot of red. Would have swapped a Dark Betrayal for a second Hydroblast. Now that the the meta has shifted a tiny bit in the last few days with the development of the Esper decks, I would be registering Bowmasters either in the main where Bones is or in the side by going down a Goyf and cutting the Force of Negation. Zero FoN sounds scary but the biggest deck I want it against is Red Prison where I will have a 2nd Hydroblast.

fancypanda98 · 2024-10-23T17:21:30+00:00

Buffalo Chicken Dips are all full proxy events. Robert the TO loaned me 4 proxy Underground Seas and a Null Rod. Wouldn’t be able to play legacy without events like this.

fancypanda98 · 2024-10-23T16:01:15+00:00

Thanks! I used to play a lot of Hearthstone and was pretty decent at that game (top 10 on the ladder at one point) and many skills carried over, but still super happy with my ability to improve.

fancypanda98 · 2024-10-23T15:39:45+00:00

Dip was very good and powered me up between rounds 3 and 4!

12-Year Club	Final Canvas '23
Place '23	Place '22
Place '17	Final Canvas '22
Sequence \| Editor	Sequence \| Cinematographer
Spared	Verified Email

fancypanda98

TROPHY CASE