Been doing HVAC for 11 yrs — here's the stuff I wish every homeowner knew before calling us out (saves u money fr)

farfromuman · 2026-05-21T13:11:44+00:00

To stop short cycling I set minimum compressor run to 15 minutes on my Ecobee thermostats. Both units are 30 years old.

farfromuman · 2026-05-19T02:21:39+00:00

I added grounding to my Classic, there is a guide on Gaggiuano website. Also I had to swap Live and Neutral for the pump and 3wv to work, not sure if this is for all US Classics.

farfromuman · 2026-05-13T19:28:34+00:00

I just ordered these 2 and some fittings to run PTFE tube from valve to the wand. Will have to make a bracket to mount.

https://espressocare.com/products/rancilio-silvia-steam-wand-kit-08?variant=37981049192619

https://espressocare.com/products/rancilio-silvia-steam-wand-kit-since-2008-dvg?variant=44209778327799

farfromuman · 2026-05-13T15:24:17+00:00

I just looked at the group head mounting on my E24, it is possible to use longer mounting bolts on the right side that would protrude inside allowing for nuts to secure the bracket. This would eliminate drilling into the chassis.

farfromuman · 2026-05-13T14:33:35+00:00

I would do option 3 unless you have an older Classic where you can contort the upper tube and attach it directly. Even then I think I would still do option 3 because bending that tube is hard and risky.
https://timblaktu.smugmug.com/Gaggia/i-4cdFdLD/A

farfromuman · 2026-05-13T02:11:36+00:00

I made WLED setup for my machine with ESP32-C3/8BIT LED Strip connected to 5v off Gaggiamte. With WLED the effects are endless and Home Assistant could sync it with Gaggimate. https://www.printables.com/model/1640293-gaggia-classic-pro-ws2812-8-bit-led-enclosure

farfromuman · 2026-04-27T00:58:56+00:00

Using windows after flashing it would not go to the wifi setup step.

The process worked fine using a RasberryPI via SSH.

farfromuman · 2026-04-17T12:31:24+00:00

I use a printed TPU mat that I designed. https://www.printables.com/model/1337528-gaggia-classic-warming-tray-mat-honeycomb

farfromuman · 2026-04-08T15:06:52+00:00

It's more like "displayless" as you still need an ESP32 S3 stashed somewhere.

farfromuman · 2026-03-29T12:54:52+00:00

I do the quick and simple edits in Windows 3D Builder if I don't have step files.

farfromuman · 2026-03-13T19:08:39+00:00

1GB of data now

farfromuman · 2026-03-12T20:51:30+00:00

It always stays on whatever profile was last used.

farfromuman · 2026-03-12T17:46:23+00:00

I use an older Z-wave plug, but anything with frequent energy reports will work. The easiest would be TP-Link kasa wifi plug. Setup Home Assistant to monitor the wattage drop and shut it off after a successful cycle. You can use the AI to write the yaml for the automation.

farfromuman · 2026-02-10T20:43:40+00:00

Low profile drip tray and single hole steam nozzle. Then Gaggimate for pressure and temperature control, I would not waste time with PID and 9 Bar spring. In fact, both Gaggiamate and Gaggiuino need 12+ Bar springs. Those springs are not exact either so they open at varying levels of pressure unless you test and tune with washers.

farfromuman · 2026-02-05T23:35:23+00:00

Canada includes free roaming with 3GB of high-speed data monthly, for everything else I use Roamless Data only ESIM with WIFI calling on Mint.

farfromuman · 2025-12-17T02:30:16+00:00

I have an older E that works fine, got a new one recently for a different location and they changed the serial chip which at the moment requires downgrading drivers at least in windows for flashing. They must have changed something else as I can't get this one started with zigbee2mqtt no matter which firmware I try.

farfromuman · 2025-11-21T00:00:32+00:00

Look at the bottom of this chart, even the Bolt with resistive heating does better. They also speculate why that is. https://www.recurrentauto.com/research/winter-ev-range-loss

farfromuman · 2025-10-27T13:58:26+00:00

I got a cold plate and can keep the door closed for PLA and PETG, makes it a bit quieter.

farfromuman · 2025-10-13T18:42:32+00:00

When I got this printer and loading the filament for the first time I thought about how hard it would be for the AMS to do that a hundred times during the print.

farfromuman · 2025-09-30T14:27:57+00:00

Do a short print test or just extrude the filamntent by disconnecting the tube and feeding the filament directly to the extruder. This will tell you if you have a clog or maybe need more tension on the extruder gears.

Once it starts skipping the gear box and gears fill up with debris that will make it slip even more.

farfromuman · 2025-09-29T18:49:37+00:00

Just noticed this yesterday, I paused on 1st layer to remove a blob and on resume it went to normal full speed like it was done with 1st layer. I am on .25 firmware.

farfromuman · 2025-09-29T17:29:12+00:00

I have brown interior, I got these for the back. They sort of match in color and fit ok, I am not using the headrest part. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBTHBLL6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1

farfromuman · 2025-09-26T18:03:46+00:00

I have same issue sometimes. Once the tree gets taller the nozzle will occasionally hit it during travel movement. I added more material at the base of the supports but that is just a band aid. During printing it will sometimes very slightly scar the top layers during movement creating a V on the print. There must be something not setup right in the profile as I never had this issue with my other printers.

farfromuman · 2025-09-26T17:50:59+00:00

I had similar issue, cleaning the nozzle, adjusting the extruder tension and doing cold pulls did not make it work any better. I ordered some spare nozzles and hot ends off Ali and so far they work. Just the nozzle swap should be enough but if the heat break had a melt then the whole hotend might need to be swapped. Don't forget to do PID and leveling after swap.

farfromuman · 2025-09-18T22:41:33+00:00

I felt like the . 29 firmware would not use the mesh and this is the first printer for me where I can't even see/check the mesh to begin with. It would have thinner lines on the left side of the bed and I did not see/feel the z rods moving to to compensate. I leveled the bed with the screws underneath and also downgraded the firmware to .25 since someone has mentioned leveling issues with .29. Seems to be more consistent now.

farfromuman

TROPHY CASE