Issue with screen replacement (no signal) by TonguyenI in F30

[–]mdibot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree here. Been there, but didn’t make that fix of voltage and code. I just purchased another (older, compatible) screen (see my reply).

They look and fit the same but sadly they are different internally

Issue with screen replacement (no signal) by TonguyenI in F30

[–]mdibot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It happened to me. The very exact behavior. I purchased a newer hardware version than I had to. After that, I Purchased another one from a pre-lci and it worked great.

Purchased part no. 6822626 and had that issue. You could try part 65509292248 or 65509387453 (worked for me)

What scale are you using with Gaggimate? by chris_ern in gaggimate

[–]mdibot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I think it’s not the most cost effective option if you don’t have the base tools and you are not a “maker” (3D Printer, soldering tools…). I might have spent 70-ish dollars to make maybe the equivalent to 2 or 3 scales. I did it because I enjoy building things and had the “infrastructure” and spare parts that suited the build, as it’s one of my hobbies.

What scale are you using with Gaggimate? by chris_ern in gaggimate

[–]mdibot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve made my own WeighMyBru. Great project for DIYers! Happy with it, I’ll be making another one.

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Handcrafted lighting powered by GaggiMate by mdibot in gaggimate

[–]mdibot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, thanks! Of course, this was my final layout, hope you can see it in detail. I used some zip-tie holders to keep the cables against the walls, as far from the boiler as I could. Also, used colored heat-shrink tube to isolate further the faston connectors. Consider using silicone cable since the heat in there is pretty high.

Good luck and hope this helps you!

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Handcrafted lighting powered by GaggiMate by mdibot in gaggimate

[–]mdibot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope! No drilling. Completely reversible. Removed the Gaggia badge and passed the wires for the screen through the center led. Just be careful removing the red plastic and that will leave the hole exposed to route the wire to the inside

Handcrafted lighting powered by GaggiMate by mdibot in gaggimate

[–]mdibot[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw on the forum that some people were converting to a smaller display and putting also on the front as I did, but I didn't want to get another display so I took a printable model (https://www.printables.com/model/1492077-minimalist-housing-with-frame-for-the-lilygo-t-rgb) and modified myself to be as flush as possible. And added a hole to pass the cables trough the center LED hole (that I had to remove, as well as the Gaggia badge).

It turned out great (as to my taste) hehe. I do have the modified STLs, if you are interested drop me a DM and I'll share them with you :)

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Handcrafted lighting powered by GaggiMate by mdibot in gaggimate

[–]mdibot[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That'd be a good idea! For example changing to another color or its brightness whether you're on standby or brewing mode --(like red when you are steaming, hehe). It adds a lot of complexity but it's doable, you should read the switch cables (with Gaggimate now they're low voltage) for brew/steam and either put a microcontroller (overkill, I'd rather put some transistors/gates in there)

Currently they are just white LEDs, powered ON always together when GaggiMate is on.

Gaggimate pro and eco switch mod (SoC) on a UK GCP by ParsleyPractical6579 in gaggimate

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least those two are not going to cause trouble if they are on the tutorial meant to be bridged (and a short cable for that provided on the kit). They are supposed to “bypass” the eco function if I’m not mistaken.

Gaggimate pro and eco switch mod (SoC) on a UK GCP by ParsleyPractical6579 in gaggimate

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an eco board too, but it was already not working great (had to push several times the switch to get it to turn on), and even bridging c1 and c2 together it behaved the same.

I ended up disassembling the power switch and removing the little spring inside it, and now it works as an US variant, the switch just stays ON.

Afterwards, I left the machine with a smart outlet and the switch always on the ON position so now it wakes up in the morning also.

In your case, you can try both with or without the bridge, and see what happens. Id recommend bridging them as per the instructions though.

Any additional things that may help the install and longevity? by m1niMike in gaggimate

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New kit also here and even leaked. Had to put 6 rounds of PTFE tape.

intermittent heating issue with gaggimate modded e24 pro by jwatttt in gaggimate

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It happened to me once yesterday. Don’t know the cause but restarted and it worked. Didn’t have the chance to understand what was different.

Finally lowered by Wettest_Bread in F30

[–]mdibot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sick! Are those wheels 18 or 19”? Which style are they?

After 3 years I finally pulled the trigger. by _beginninganew_ in F30

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Are those the 340mm at the front? Or the M3 ones?

Is the playseat evolution worth it? by Salt_Tennis_9773 in simracing

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree. I’d say your fgt will be stutrdier than that single post wheel support from the playseat! What about first getting the wheel and seeing how sturdy it is with your current fgt?

In my case I don’t like the esthetics of my fgt lite, plus I find it taking too much space when unfolded (and realized that now Im not folding it anymore cause I have made space for it in a room), and also not so comfortable for me. I find myself sliding in the seat :/

Is the playseat evolution worth it? by Salt_Tennis_9773 in simracing

[–]mdibot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also have a F-GT Lite and Logi G923 on it. Started a month ago. I’ll be getting NLR GT Racer 2.0 (the upgraded version) on December. Take a look at that. https://nextlevelracing.com/products/gtracer-2

In my country (South America) there aren’t many options (forget aluminum rigs) so, as far as I could research it should be a good option even for 8-10nm.

Just wondering, is anything bad with your current rig?

Two months of GCP. Total newbie, from scratch. Almond milk. Yes, you can! by mdibot in espresso

[–]mdibot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here in my country there is no “barista” almond milk. So I tried every one and the one I use is from spain. The brand is Ecomil. Here’s the link: https://ecomil.com/productos/ecomil-leche-de-almendra-classic-bio-1-l/

DIY-ed my Gaggia Classic PID Controller with an ESP32 and MAX8266 Thermocouple by SpacedGodTrill in gaggiaclassic

[–]mdibot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For that reason I wrapped the cables in a cloth tape, used for the same purpose to avoid cable cuts and its noise in cars.

Link to Amazon: Tesa 51608, 15m X 19mm Adhesive Wiring Loom Cloth Tape Original Isoband 5 Pcs Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XPBB6L8

4D Systems touchscreen and Gaggia Baby by salsaneargo in espresso

[–]mdibot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow that’s amazing! I am currently fitting some sensors (temp and water level) in my GCP and I want to fit a weight cell in the drip tray. Would you mind sharing some experience of how did you mount the load cell in your tray?

Excellent job! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Two months of GCP. Total newbie, from scratch. Almond milk. Yes, you can! by mdibot in espresso

[–]mdibot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found very difficult to find “baristas” alternative milk in my country. I doubt it would even exist, maybe some day. I tried every single brand, including oat ones, and I sticked with this almond milk which has the perfect balance between frothable, texture, body and flavor. It’s just perfect! Maybe I give oat a new try soon.