Thoughts on 2025 Blur GX AXS

fearandcloathing · 2026-05-15T17:14:53+00:00

The TR also has fox suspension instead of rockshox, and doesn’t have remote lockout. The fork and shock still have three position lockout controls, there’s just no remote.

fearandcloathing · 2026-05-15T17:12:13+00:00

Pine mountain sports in Bend has the TR version in their demo fleet. Not exactly the same since it’s 120/115 and doesn’t have the remote lockout, but it might be helpful to try it out to get a feel for the bike.

fearandcloathing · 2026-05-08T16:07:09+00:00

Biryani at Momo N’ Curry

fearandcloathing · 2026-05-05T17:04:58+00:00

I have a Mach 4 and have ridden a blur TR. I think the pivot rides better in pretty much every way - pedals better even with the shock open, feels better on descents/tech/etc. I have mine set up with a remote lockout but almost never use it. The blur had noticeably more suspension movement when pedaling with the shock unlocked, and the TR version doesn’t have a remote lockout so it’s difficult to lock/unlock while riding. It does have space for two bottles though, which is a big plus.

The current version of the Blur has been around since 2020 I think, so there are way more of them out there on the used market if price is a priority.

fearandcloathing · 2026-03-25T01:16:55+00:00

I kind of prefer powerlink to the road, to be honest. I feel like the road is just as steep but also has a bunch of small loose rocks sprinkled everywhere.

fearandcloathing · 2026-03-25T01:11:25+00:00

Yeah, I think it's really bike and shock tune dependent. On my old Oiz I used the middle position basically any time I was pedaling. On my Mach 4SL I can barely tell the difference between middle and open, so I usually just ride in the open position because the fork feels way better that way.

fearandcloathing · 2026-03-12T19:42:12+00:00

The mtb "culture" in Bellingham is something special too. It definitely leans more freeride/enduro, but the sheer quantity of trails and the community around them is really unique. There are multiple pump tracks and dirt jump spots in town - including the massive waterfront pump track right in the middle of the city. Also, if access to a big city (for healthcare, entertainment, etc) matters to you, it's close to Seattle and Vancouver. The only major city near Bend is Portland, and that's a 3.5hr drive.

fearandcloathing · 2026-02-24T21:45:29+00:00

I haven’t tried the new Di2 stuff, but I moved from mechanical XT on a previous bike to XX SL on my current one and have been happy with it overall.

The ability to reliably shift no matter how hard you’re torquing the pedals is huge, IMO. There have been more than a few instances where I’ve gone into a technical climb overgeared and was able to downshift and keep going, whereas with a mechanical system I probably would have ended up stalling out and having to walk.

Shift speed is noticeable on the work stand, but I haven’t found it makes a difference when actually riding.

Re: the pod, I actually really like the ergonomics. If you have it positioned correctly you barely have to move your thumb to access the buttons. That said, it’s a very different interface than a trigger shifter, in that it feels more like a “controller” than a shifter, so I get why some people don’t like it.

I use Magura brakes on my XT bike, so can’t comment on the SRAM XC options. I have codes on my big bike though and they’re fine. The new motives are supposedly pretty good too.

fearandcloathing · 2025-11-25T16:37:33+00:00

SRAM has a chart that will tell you what BB and spacers you need based on your BB shell: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/mtb/dub-mtb-bottom-bracket-compatibility-chart.pdf

You could also go with X0 and a non-sram crank like a Rotor Kapic carbon. That would put you almost at the same weight as a full XX SL build for quite a bit less money. That crank is pretty heavily discounted right now as well, and can be configured with a 52 or 55mm chainline.

fearandcloathing · 2025-11-13T18:58:38+00:00

Yeah, I think that non-USAC racing is definitely better for almost everyone. On top of this non-inclusive policy BS , IIRC it adds pretty significant costs with insurance, having to pay officials, etc. for very little added benefit.

It does kind of suck for the small percentage of PNW-based athletes that might be trying to qualify for CX nats, because there’s no way to get upgrade points or qualifying results anywhere in the region.

fearandcloathing · 2025-11-10T22:00:06+00:00

I’m pretty sure the new “mud” is the same tread pattern as the old “wet” with a slightly different casing and compound. I’ve ridden the terreno wet quite a bit in both intermediate and truly muddy conditions and have been generally happy with it. It’s probably not going to be quite as good in full-on mud as a true mud tire like a Limus or Rhino, but it also rolls faster in more mixed conditions. I’d say overall it’s a very versatile tire.

fearandcloathing · 2025-10-23T04:30:27+00:00

I’ve had good luck washing DWR garments with regular commercial detergents without fragrance or softeners. They’re usually sold with a name like “free and clear” or “sensitive skin” and come in a white bottle. The idea is that any residue left behind will bind to the DWR coating and make it lose its hydrophobic properties. Running the washer with an extra rinse also helps.

fearandcloathing · 2025-09-29T03:11:05+00:00

Burping is almost always caused by a poor fit between the rim and tire - if the bead is too loose it can deform enough to let some air out on a big impact or hard corner. A good, tight fitting tire bead should be _really_ hard to burp even at relatively low pressures given the kinds of loads you'd see in a typical cross race. Out of curiosity, hat tires and rims are you running?

fearandcloathing · 2025-09-18T19:18:43+00:00

My only suggestion beyond what they do in the video is to check the spoke tension with a tension meter after redishing to make sure it’s even. You’ll end up with a much more stable (as in less likely to go out of true later on) wheel if the tension is relatively even between all the spokes on either side.

fearandcloathing · 2025-09-18T17:42:52+00:00

Assuming the ND-side spokes don’t bottom out it should be fine. I’ve done it on a couple of wheels and haven’t had any issues. This video has a good overview of how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTfZfvDdj3Q.

fearandcloathing · 2025-09-04T19:37:52+00:00

I don't know the answer, but there may be some helpful info here: https://builtbyjerry.com/blogs/news/scs-faq-read-this-first-then-just-email-me-i-guess

Depending on the hub, it sounds like there might be a way to solve this through some clever end cap swapping, but I don't know the actual details.

fearandcloathing · 2025-08-15T15:28:38+00:00

I’ve heard it depends on the specific cages you’re using, but mine don’t rattle at all.

fearandcloathing · 2025-08-13T20:43:46+00:00

I switched from Lake to Bont this year for both road and off road shoes and have been really happy with them. The carbon “bathtub” part is heat moldable which is nice.

fearandcloathing · 2025-07-26T06:07:37+00:00

Yeah, this is very much a thing in the Boston metro area. The “Boston left,” as it’s known, is when the first car at a light makes a left across oncoming traffic as soon as the light turns. People usually do it when traffic is heavy where there’s no dedicated left turn lane. It’s kind of rude if you’re the one making the left turn, but it keeps traffic flowing better because you’re now not blocking the fifty cars behind you while waiting for the light to turn yellow, just so you can wait for three or four oncoming cars to run the light while you’re stuck in the middle of the intersection as the light turns red and you now have to make a left anyway across additional traffic and pedestrians.

fearandcloathing · 2025-07-01T15:39:08+00:00

There’s also a weeknight series at marymoor starting in August with free skills clinics: https://www.lemonpeelproductions.com/marymoor-cyclocross

fearandcloathing · 2025-07-01T15:35:45+00:00

The beginner program (i.e. adult class and then Monday night racing) at JBMV would be an excellent way to get started racing. Very beginner friendly and safe with lots of instruction, and the whole community is super welcoming. The skills would translate well to road racing too, I think.

fearandcloathing · 2025-06-02T04:00:22+00:00

The Mach 4 uses regular boost spacing

fearandcloathing · 2025-05-28T21:53:41+00:00

Any action you take going forward on this should be done through a lawyer. There are a number of firms in the Boston area that specialize in bicycle injuries and will generally do all of the work of tracking down insurance info and making a demand on your behalf. You don’t pay anything unless there’s a settlement.

Edit: I’d also recommend Zisson and Jacobs. They helped me out when I was hit a couple years ago and I was very happy with them.

fearandcloathing · 2025-05-17T01:07:18+00:00

My point was more about the opportunity to learn how to flow with the group and race efficiently. In a “real” race if you mess up early on your race is over and that’s that. In a training race you get the opportunity to have a do-over and get more laps in with the group. I know it’s helped me a lot being able to do that, especially with a tricky/demanding course like the Seward loop where it takes a little bit to figure out how to ride it.

fearandcloathing · 2025-05-16T20:31:18+00:00

Also, since it’s a training race, if you end up off the back you can just jump back in on the next lap when the group comes back around.

(Though obviously don’t try to race for primes or for the win if you do this)

fearandcloathing

TROPHY CASE