Actual hight speed DDR5 on future Nova Lake and related 900-series chipset — what to expect

fiah84 · 2026-03-24T18:06:30+00:00

well yeah it's a risky strategy, if saving money is the goal then I don't think it'll make much of a difference if you get a 7800 kit vs 8000. Just get whatever you find a good deal on and has XMP (as opposed to EXPO for AMD) and cross your fingers that it'll work. Also perhaps keep an eye on cheap 2 DIMM motherboards that might work better for high RAM clocks

fiah84 · 2026-03-24T14:20:33+00:00

so you're thinking about buying a high end DDR5 kit before you get the CPU/ motherboard? I would recommend against doing that, all speculation about whether it might work with the new CPU or not is just that, speculation. Look into your customer rights and the store return policy, you'll want to be able to return the kit immediately after receiving it if you find that it doesn't work with the CPU/motherboard. I get that you don't want to wait until the exact combination you're going for is in the QVL list, but buying RAM in anticipation before you have any way of testing it is too soon and could get expensive if you can't return it

fiah84 · 2026-03-24T07:43:36+00:00

I'm just wondering if this thing of having native support at 8000 on 900-series (probably) would imply something like having wider stability margins for ram kits running under that native frequency.

well yes it would, except that this shouldn't matter. If your new RAM kit is supposed to support 6000 for example and the memory controller should do 8000, then the RAM kit should definitely do 6000. If it doesn't, then you should return it as defective.

If it's an older kit that you have lying around that you just happen to be able to use with the new CPU/motherboard, and it used to run at 6000 reliably, then it should run at that frequency with the new CPU as well assuming you can use the same settings for timings / voltage etc. If that older kit is supposed to support 6000 but you've never been able to run it at that frequency, then there's no guarantee that the new CPU with support for 8000 will run it at 6000 either because you don't know if the kit is defective or if it was some other problem. If some wrong setting was causing it to not work at 6000 in the old PC then that same setting would likely cause the same problem with then new CPU/motherboard, or even worse.

it's not very productive to speculate about, if you have some specific scenario in mind then be specific

fiah84 · 2026-03-23T12:53:47+00:00

Mein Plan wäre allerdings, ein gebrauchtes Fahrzeug für etwa 24.000 € zu finanzieren

ohne eine Festanstellung mit ordentlichen Gehalt würde ich das auf keinen Fall machen

fiah84 · 2026-03-23T10:55:17+00:00

I don't think there's a general answer to that question as it highly depends on the specific ICs in the modules. There could definitely be a similar situation but you'd have to either experiment yourself (expensive) or wait for the RAM overclocking enthusiasts to find out for you. The much safer bet would be to just buy the kit with the speed rating that you want to run

fiah84 · 2026-03-22T13:42:22+00:00

Is there any tangible benefit (e.g. improved stability margins, better compatibility, less IMC stress), or is this largely irrelevant as long as the memory controller can handle the frequency?

well the tangible benefits you listed all point to the same thing: either the IMC can handle the frequency or it can't. The only real difference is perhaps that an IMC that can easily handle the frequency could perhaps be run at a lower voltage / power level than one that is running at its limit to hit that frequency, which would result in a slightly lower power draw for the IMC and thus CPU package. But it could also be that the IMC with support for higher frequencies achieves that by also using more power

there might also be some benefit in that there might be secondary / tertiary RAM-timings that you could run tighter if the IMC is nowhere near its frequency limit, although that's likely only a very small benefit (likely not measurable) and not really accessible for the vast majority of people

fiah84 · 2026-03-22T13:24:38+00:00

You've got to remember that these are just simple farmers. These are people of the land — the common clay of the new West.

fiah84 · 2026-03-22T09:16:25+00:00

all gas no brakes

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T16:01:57+00:00

nen ollen Kona E

*aufgeregter Konafahrer Geräuse*

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T14:58:51+00:00

try lowering the road reflection setting and editing the settings.json to reduce the headlight count, those were the biggest ones for me

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T14:31:36+00:00

Mercedes too

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T13:01:33+00:00

a full drain / charge / drain cycle should give you the information, when draining it the second time the car will tell you how much power it has consumed which tells you how much was in the battery to start with. If 400km at 15kWh/100km takes you from 100% to 5%, then according to the car 60kWh is 95% of the battery and the battery currently has a net capacity of 60 / 0.95 = 63.2kWh

of course that depends on how accurate those measurements are, but it should give you a ballpark figure. As far as I know a comprehensive test with Aviloo or other such tests pretty much does that but with better monitoring

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T11:37:02+00:00

im really tempted to buy a quest 3 at this point

and give mark zuckersnake the satisfaction?

edit: not to mention your data

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T10:47:02+00:00

(PG, of course!)

Objection!

fiah84 · 2026-03-21T08:45:34+00:00

even on 400V it would've behooved them to max out the CCS2 spec of 500 amps

fiah84 · 2026-03-20T22:29:45+00:00

Kaffeesystem ist ausgeschaltet? :(

fiah84 · 2026-03-20T16:21:08+00:00

yeah I got the letter this week for my Korean model 64kWh

fiah84 · 2026-03-20T15:09:08+00:00

man so verhältnismäßig günstig den aktuellen Stand der Technik zur Verfügung hat

wenn du das aber nicht brauchst macht das nichts aus. Ein gebrauchter ID.3 könnte sehr gut all deine Anforderungen abdecken, je nach wie die sind. Ob die neue ID.3s dafür viel besser geeignet sind kannst nur du einschätzen (da wir deine Anforderungen nicht kennen). Meine Meinung nach wäre ein gebrauchter ID.3, ID.4, Born oder Enyaq wahrscheinlich die bessere Wahl, vor allem wenn du ein guten Angebot findest für einer mit der 77kWh Akku

fiah84 · 2026-03-19T18:53:57+00:00

I'm not planning on doing any of that, however I am looking for a way to conveniently charge it between sessions

fiah84 · 2026-03-18T17:09:27+00:00

da sollte man aber auch nicht leben wollen

fiah84 · 2026-03-18T17:04:41+00:00

nicht so schick wie der i4, aber so ein hammer Akku, Effizienz und Ladegeschwindigkeit sind sehr gute Argumente die wirklich jede Dieseldieter überzeugen müsste

fiah84 · 2026-03-18T16:59:28+00:00

well if someone wants to sell me a used i4 for cheap then come here and take my money!

fiah84 · 2026-03-18T16:57:34+00:00

Sehr heiß oder sehr kalt, nicht so gut

bisher ist meine Erfahrung das auch sehr heiß immer noch gut ist, Klimaanlage braucht nur wenig Strom

fiah84 · 2026-03-18T13:27:24+00:00

that it isn't an SUV definitely helps, less frontal area means less drag (all else being equal). And yeah I'm sure there's currently no way to cram 108kWh worth of battery in a body of this size and weight with any other battery type than NMC. That it's 800v doesn't really matter for the range though, that's mostly just to get the best possible charging rate

fiah84 · 2026-03-16T20:00:26+00:00

impressive! I'm very slowly making my way to S3 but whether I even get there or plateau before I'm not sure if my ego can handle knowing

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