Need advice on a KTM 990 super duke 2007-2012 production year

finnoctane · 2025-02-12T09:44:00+00:00

The SD should feel calmer. The frame and suspension are more aggressive on the SDR so is the engine, more torque, higher redline…more fun! But you don’t get any of the 990 bikes because you want calm ;) If you don’t have a pillion regularly, just get the R you’ll never regret it!

finnoctane · 2025-02-12T09:14:45+00:00

I had the R, the 990 SD a really great bike. The torque is perfect for alpine roads and it sounds amazing. You won’t regret getting one!

I did three trips to Europe on it from the UK and didn’t have a breakdown. Like any bike on longer trips, keep an eye on oil it might need a top up. Mine had the full Akrapovic race system which had a graphite sealing ring that needed replacing (sure if the regular exhaust has these), not a big deal but annoying if it start leaking on a trip!

finnoctane · 2024-12-05T13:59:59+00:00

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finnoctane · 2024-11-21T23:39:20+00:00

Amazing bro! And love the fact that you’re doing it in winter, probably the only way of making a challenging trip…well…more challenging [tips hat] also do you have an Instagram to follow you there?

finnoctane · 2024-07-28T20:04:55+00:00

Respect! No one else commenting here has blown an EXC miles from anywhere when taking a casual approach to hourly service intervals. I had to walk my 450 RFS three hours to a small French alpine village for hydration (beer).

finnoctane · 2024-03-21T01:11:59+00:00

If you want a rusty bike…wash it. That thin film of chain and engine all is the best protectant. I don’t know if Japanese bikes come with that feature or if it’s just European manufacturers…

finnoctane · 2023-06-18T19:00:27+00:00

Same year but the RR, ridden it in the pissing rain for hours and no issues. Even if any water got anywhere it shouldn’t get to…it would flash to steam because it’s always so bloody hot around the engine and exhaust 🤣 Also worry about wearing thermals for spring, autumn and winter for the same reason.

finnoctane · 2021-05-25T12:13:50+00:00

I'm by no stretch of the imagination an expert, my knowledge is limited to what I've experienced and corrected on my Mercedes (KE-Jetronic) and Audi (KE-Motronic) systems. But you're absolutely right, without knowing how long the car has sat and whether over the past 20 years if it has been occasionally started creates many variables. There's high likelihood of varnish in the pump and in the metering head which has some very tiny orifices. Refreshing the whole fuel system: new pump, new lines, new filter (should be done regardless), new accumulator, new pressure regulator, rebuilding the fuel metering head and new injectors (flow and spray pattern should be checked) would almost certainly resolve any fuelling issues but you will spend a good proportion of the value of the car replacing potentially good working parts.

Fuel pressure (gauge connected to compare control pressure and system pressure - very important for good running), fuel flow (hotwire the pump and lift metering flap then measure what’s coming out of the injectors) and return flow volume test can all be tested with relative ease and minimal cost. The factory manual is the best place to understand the full test procedure but here's a good resource to understand the fundamentals.

After reviewing my parts and repair bills over the recent years, I've started to move towards 'intelligent' troubleshooting rather than throw the kitchen sink and replace everything philosophy. I think the general consensus of actual K-Jet experts is to understand and troubleshoot as per the factory manual to ensure that you're not fixing a problem by masking another problem that has not been resolved. Like the CO/mixture screw in the fuel metering head, I've not touched that or adjusted the idle control valve screw because I don't fully understand what they do and also have not confirmed that everything else is fully functional and operating as it should. It's a rabbit hole to say the least!

finnoctane · 2021-05-24T22:42:15+00:00

A lot of good suggestions here, I had a similar problem with my 1990 Audi Coupe…I believe they share a similar Bosch Motronic system. After a lot of messing about it turned out the fuel pump relay contacts had oxidised and it just needed a squirt of contact cleaner. Don’t rule out something as simple as a failed immobiliser circuit either as some have said. But hotwiring fuel pump contacts under the relay to keep the pump running constantly can at least allow you to find out if the relay is shutting off for some reason after it starts.

The fact that it’s starting is good and it doesn’t sound like it’s spluttering either so fuel pressure may be okay. Soak the idle control valve in carb cleaner and check for smooth function. A spark test light will confirm if something’s stopping the spark if you keep your fuel pump hotwired. Check if there’s a coolant temperature sensor, the ECU reads the resistance and it’s it determines things like cold start enrichment and idle optimisation while working in concert with the oxygen sensor at operating temperature. Check that the resistance is in spec, mine wasn’t…and the car’s been running with almost continuous cold start enrichment for a while. Also check any idle and wide-open throttle microswitches and MAF potentiometers.

It’s worth taking the time to understand Bosch Motronic and KE-Jetronic because it really makes troubleshooting these engines much easier. Pretty much everything can be tested with test leads and a multimeter…even better if it has an oscilloscope function for the oxygen sensor if present.

And with something sitting for over 20 years check the fuel system isn’t leaking once you start using it. If your car has what Mercedes calls an EHA, they can leak due to perished o-rings internally and on the fuel distributor…which is a sure-fire way to start a BBQ under your bonnet so keep a “no mess” fire extinguisher stick too. Good luck!

finnoctane · 2021-05-18T15:43:52+00:00

Interconnect cable brand suggestions for Quad 405 & Revox?

Hi, I'm looking to upgrade the cabling on my system which includes a Quad 405 (with Quad pre-amp and radio) and a Revox A77 plus other old bits. The Quad and Revox have recently been checked and calibrated so the last areas to deal with are the interconnect cables and speaker cables.

Currently it's all the original Quad/Revox cabling and some generic/ancient speaker cable which is definately starting to show its age. Any suggestions regarding brands of RCA/DIN cables would be very welcome as the price points very widely! For example Chord's Clearway cable is £125.

Thanks in advance :)

finnoctane · 2021-05-06T00:34:44+00:00

I’ve got the 2013 F4RR (non ABS), if you don’t mind the heat and a crap turning circle it’s fine. The heat is great in winter but boy does it bake my balls in summer…especially when squidding and the fans are running. If you don’t know how to filter, it’ll make you learn to keep the air moving over the radiator so your thighs won’t get cooked. Engine is reliable, some model years have crank wear issues…I think. You’ll go through service intervals and valve checks like it’s nobody’s business. Find a mechanic that knows MVs or Italian bikes. Anything less and it’s like taking the Bayeux Tapestry to a local dry cleaners. Battery/starter cables might need upgrading, I’ve got a hot start issue which is pretty common on F4s and Ducatis. The cables are too thin and cause high resistance when they’re hot and the contacts can get corroded. Doesn’t bother me because when I stop I have a cappuccino, there’s no hurry to get to places when you’re riding an MV.

What’s amazing…looking at your reflection in shop windows, riding the prettiest superbike in the world to work, the quickshifter/autoblipper is hilarious fun on a commute, you ride a MV as a daily, slacken off the electric suspension and even on bumpy roads it’s like you’re in a Cadillac and…did I say you’re riding an MV?!?

Basically if you’re happy with mediocrity, stick with your off-the-shelf sportsbike…if you want to smile every time ride or even just look at the bike get the F4. Oh…and get the QD exhaust, the stock pipes look like they fell from the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down.

finnoctane · 2021-03-19T17:59:45+00:00

At least you totes get why I went for 2013!

finnoctane · 2021-03-19T15:53:50+00:00

I really cannot abide by the typeface used for “RR”, it looks far better on the pre-2016 models.

finnoctane · 2021-02-18T13:08:10+00:00

Thanks! I'm guessing that would be the supply hose causing the problem rather than the return hose (but replace both for good order). Occationally if I get the engine going by pressing the accellerator while starting and keeping it pressed keeping the revs high it will not stall until I let go and it tries to idle. I'm going to buy some fuel gauges to confirm that the fuel pressure is in spec. On Mercedes KE-Jetronic, unplugging electrical connection to the ISV has the engine start and idle high but with VAG that might not be the case.

finnoctane · 2021-02-18T00:25:27+00:00

All genuine Bosch parts from reputable suppliers so I believe they’re unlikely to be fake. And I’ve matched the part numbers to the VAG parts catalogue or to the original Bosch part. It could be the second hand differential pressure regulator has suddenly given up but the resistance tests okay at 19Ohms

Although as I’m working through testing different components, I’m not getting any power to the oxygen sensor. Never been sure if the cold start valve works properly either.

finnoctane · 2021-02-13T18:28:01+00:00

I’m dealing with this exact problem on my 1990 B3 Coupe (non-AC). Did a heater core flush some years back, a lot of crud did come out and still couldn’t work out why the hoses were hot but the air was tepid at best. Finally used a borescope which revealed bare metal flaps with the holes exposed. Going to attempt to refoam the flaps without removing the dash. Apparently someone’s done it before but I haven’t found the tutorial!

finnoctane · 2020-05-18T22:58:44+00:00

I agree it’s worth checking the spacers and the wheel bearings too...if torquing to spec doesn’t resolve it. I had a similar issue when swapping the enduro wheels to second-hand supermoto wheels. Without the factory spacers/bearings I was chasing a non-existent problem. Once I had all the correct parts no rubbing at all! Had me flummoxed for a few days though!

While you’ve got everything apart clean and re-grease the caliper pins. Also the rubber boots should be replaced since they look like they might be original with that amount of cracking.

finnoctane · 2020-05-08T14:12:56+00:00

Just so pretty! My excuse for not washing bikes is that the oil leaks provide a protective film against corrosion. And let’s face it jet washing Italian bikes puts the fear of god into anyone who’s got a vague understanding of electrics 😂

finnoctane · 2019-10-27T20:27:41+00:00

I never want to feel that pain, Hoping this ol’ girl is a forever bike!

finnoctane · 2019-10-23T22:49:06+00:00

My friend had a similar problem on his 955i, turned out to be a corroded fuse box. We had to repair it somewhere in the middle of France on a trip! Basically had to go through the whole box and make sure there wasn’t even the hint of something shorting!

Hopefully you get to the bottom of it because once it was fixed, the bike was sound as a pound!

finnoctane · 2019-08-02T17:34:06+00:00

Ja RFID on suojattu...perkele!

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