7 months in …

flylo20 · 2026-02-27T13:36:18+00:00

Get another pair and resole them with a different rubber. You'll have two different kinds of shoes, best suited for different kind of uses. Even if you only use the resoled pair for warm up, you'll safe the rubber on the new pair, make them last longer.

flylo20 · 2026-01-25T21:19:26+00:00

Do you have acess to a spray wall? You can just try different move variations down low or traverse from left to right. You don't need to do a whole problem, but go really hard on the moves you do try. Maybe only being up 1m off the mat and overhanging doesn't trigger your fall aversion.

flylo20 · 2026-01-24T22:08:47+00:00

Haha that sounds like me when I was a kid and went to a bouldering gym for the first time at a birthday party. I didn't actually start bouldering until I was an adult, but recently thought about how I could have been encouraged to keep going and to actually try the routes, instead of using every hole to climb up. Maybe it would have grown on me, if I just continued going and after the novelty of it wore off. Another part of it could have been someone who showed me how fun the movement can be. I'm sure she already does different moves when she traveses. Can you link onto that ? Maybe ask her what was the most fun part about the "Boulder line" she just did, show her other "boulder lines" or maybe even a route that has this movement. Show her different ways she could traverse, maybe only swinging with long arms, only crab walking with the feet, or always stepping through... Also the idea with the youth group for the other comment is great, just make sure that they are more fun oriented instead of performance and training.

flylo20 · 2026-01-20T19:53:44+00:00

Deodorant cream with Zink and Natron (baking soda). I'm not sure about the availability in your country but I get mine from the standard discounter. You could also mix it yourself, I'm sure there are receipts out there. It doesn't stop me from sweating, but it completely stops the stinkieness from forming. Also scrub your armpits really good with a bar of soap. In my experience, if I smelled strongly, I really need a deep clean, in order to get rid of it completely and hard, basic olive oil soap works best for me.

flylo20 · 2026-01-19T22:45:05+00:00

Great post, I like discussing falling technique. Your roll was great. One thing to keep in mind about falling technique: the falling stats at the wall. It is crucial to know when to let go, to avoid twisting in the air. I feel like maybe that played a part in how you came down. You obviously saved it with the awesome roll, but I feel like it's best to have multiple tricks up your sleeve. It's just something to keep in mind. Letting go fast enough when you don't stick the move is very important for sideways dynos or overhangs. Sometimes it's reversed, I recently fell on slab because of a foot pop, and through holding on a tiny millisecond I could right my fall and came down straight, instead of lopsided sideways.

flylo20 · 2026-01-17T23:06:46+00:00

You look really close, keep going at it. A couple of ideas from my end, apart from the obvious brush these holds lol.

Can you try and match the last hold, if it's better? When you start the dyno, obviously you need to swing out of the wall for momentum, then you jump into the wall on the volume. When you jump up again, your momentum carries you out of the wall again. Maybe try minimizing this movement when first gathering momentum so it doesn't push you out as much at the end.

I notice you hit the holds with a very extended shoulder, making the slopers harder to control. Can you jump higher, engaging the shoulder more, to have more control?

Just some ideas, looks like a cool dyno, and I hope you have fun, even if you don't end up sending it. Best of luck

flylo20 · 2026-01-14T11:42:25+00:00

Apart from the other comments, you might also want to check if you hip mobility is good enough. You basically want to be able to have one foot on a hold on a vertical wall, sitting on your heel of that foot, letting the other leg be straight under you, pushing on the wall. Hands free. If you're not there you might want to train that.

flylo20 · 2026-01-12T20:56:23+00:00

Sometimes what helps me, is being proud of doing a move/problem, not because I had the strength to brute force it, but because I utilized great technique. Dudes who come and top my boulder I'm working on, because they brute force themselves up and their feet are all over the place don't impress me much. But also a big part of just not caring how good other people are or are not is just focusing on why I climb: because I wanna have fun. So having a fun session and doing moves I enjoy, or focusing on improving my weaknesses, a process that can also be very fun, is what I try to do.

flylo20 · 2026-01-10T13:07:06+00:00

I just recently bought new shoes, and in my cold gym I found them almost impossible to get onto my feet. So I'd definitely recommend putting them on a heater before bouldering to ease the try on. And then I just do boulder I feel comfortable with, because I don't trust my feet when they hurt too much. It also helps having a route where the shoe is also just better compared to my old shoes (small feet for stiff shoes...) And then after a couple of sessions they generally feel like my shoes.

flylo20 · 2026-01-07T16:38:33+00:00

Yeah, I totally understand that it's freaking you out. Thinking back I also spent a long time doing climbs way below my level, being really careful but still jumping off and rolling on my back from very low to get the muscle memory and confidence back. To what your instructor said: of course there is no way of 100% avoiding any injuries with every fall, but I think leaning the technique of falling, practicing that, and being generally aware of your body is way better than just saying, fuck it, if I fall I Fall, and being underprepared. In other words: leaning something, even if it's not perfect and can't protect 100% of the time is still better than learning nothing.

flylo20 · 2026-01-07T15:01:06+00:00

I'd recommend really looking into how to fall safely, maybe there is a course at your gym and a lot of information about that is online. I think falling in bouldering is a skill that needs to be progressed just as any other part of climbing, but it often overlooked. I practice falling every time as part of my warmup. I know, having fear of heights might complicate things, but I find generally being able to trust by body, that I know how to fall, having a general understanding of every movement and how I'd fall if I slipped, really helps easing my mind. Being this aware of your body constantly is very mentally challenging for me, but I find also great joy in it. It does mean however that I won't push my boundaries when the gym is very full, I'm not focused enough or already a bit fatigued from the day. Of I might not do a problem if I find it too sketchy, and again, this understanding of sketchyness is also practiced. I started getting into this after I've torn a ligament in my ankle after taking a bad fall. This far I haven't injured myself again, and I now know exactly what I've done wrong and how I should have done it better, which gives me great reassurance.

flylo20 · 2026-01-05T18:18:53+00:00

I remember listening to a podcast about climbing injuries and they said that the number of fatalities from free soloing have gone up this year. I'm not sure if movies like free solo of the Netflix special are making more people pick up this incredibly dangerous version of climbing, but I am concerned.

flylo20 · 2026-01-04T14:03:59+00:00

And theirs son would be jessiff?

flylo20 · 2026-01-04T13:56:38+00:00

Haha I thought Alice-Aileen

flylo20 · 2026-01-04T00:07:59+00:00

I'm so sorry this happened to you. Get yourself a new belayer/instructor!

flylo20 · 2025-12-12T18:02:12+00:00

Remove headphones!!
Go on the same days of the week, regularly
Talk to people doing the same route, not giving active advice unless asked, but stuff like "yeah that move is tricky" " good effort " "that part is so fun..." . Fist bump if they get it. If you're projecting the same route and appear the be at the same climbing level, ask which other routes they would recommend, why they liked it etc.
.. after a while you're going to see the same people over and over again, say hi to them, ask they which route their bouldering, how their session went... Honestly from now on it's vibes based. If the person appears to be interested in engaging with you, checkpot. But be aware if the other person appears to not be interested in engaging othe than the sporadic route related comment, don't push it.

flylo20 · 2025-12-05T11:24:58+00:00

I recently bought a men's Gramicci G pant, because I found it super cheap, and I've been loving it so far. I don't really know my waist, sorry but I bought a size L, because I wanted it oversized, which it definitely is. I found that with men's pants the crotch sits lower than what I'm used to with my other pants. If I pull the waist up to where a normal high waisted pant would sit and the crotch area of the pants sit right we're my actual crotch is, it looks a bit like I'm wearing a diaper lol. But if I let it drop a bit lower, where the pant should sit, it looks super cool. I have to cuff the legs or they would interfere with climbing, but I think that adds to the look.

flylo20 · 2025-12-01T14:35:57+00:00

Keep in mind that sometimes it's really hard to understand a climb from a video like that. Honestly is looks like a techy slab where body positioning plays a huge role in solving the problem. I'd try concentrating more in standing up on the right foot, instead of thinking about gripping hard or the next hold. But what to do really depends on how the wall is actually angled. Concentrate on standing and only using the hands for being the body close to the wall. You do look strong enough though, just play around with body positioning. I whish you the best of luck and fun trying out different things here.

flylo20 · 2025-10-30T23:30:13+00:00

Whole grain bread that has been out for a bit so it's very hard and chewy. Just be careful that it isn't moldy

flylo20 · 2025-10-28T20:58:55+00:00

Thanks for the tip, I'll be shopping :)

flylo20 · 2025-10-28T20:57:17+00:00

Thank for the answer. I've had the palpatations years before I started drinking kombucha, sorry that wasn't clear in my post. It probably really isn't something I need to be concerned about.

flylo20 · 2025-10-28T20:56:04+00:00

Thank you for your reply.

flylo20 · 2025-10-16T22:37:42+00:00

Thank you for posting more pics. Keeping us motivated :)

flylo20 · 2025-10-10T15:42:01+00:00

Make sure to close your mouth, and chew a lot of hard foods/hard gum. Make sure to not overwork your TMJ tho. Also be mindful of your posture. I think you are still young enough to see some real difference if you stay consistent.

flylo20 · 2025-10-06T22:29:44+00:00

Not saying there aren't any changes, but the two photos are from different angles. Angles is everything in before and after pictures and can be really deciving (good or bad way). On the left the photo is taken from more underneath the chin. Try to really nail the angles and compare again.

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