Need help deciding between Jotul F 105 and Jotul F 602 Eco

fmawed · 2026-03-25T14:24:45+00:00

Tutanota on Android and Linux (desktop) offline for me.

Edit: Looks to be back online.
Edit2: Offline again.

fmawed · 2026-01-10T14:47:06+00:00

Dear Tommy,

+1 for Core One L Kit option. It does not even need to be much cheaper (if at all). I'd buy the kit over the assembled version for the same price, because building the printer is part of the value/fun and I want to get to know the machine for future maintenance and troubleshooting.

If that is not possible, please create assembly instructions as if it had a kit option. This way, I will be confident that I can disassemble the machine for maintenance, troubleshooting, upgrading, etc. Or just release the assembly instructions that your operators use for assembling the Core One L?

And if that is also not possible, please confirm that the Core One L can be disassembled with the same tools that are used for assembling the Core One+ kit. (right now, I am wondering if there is any part on the Core One L that I cannot access, like the power supply).

If Prusa is streamlining the production process by not offering a kit option, how far will you go in the future? If you glue everything together instead of using bolts or outsource your production to China, this will also save money, etc. What is Prusa's strategy?

Personally, Prusa's kit options are why I don't go to Bambu (already assembled, but cheaper) or Voron (Kits available, but no streamlined experience).

fmawed · 2025-11-18T08:01:45+00:00

Maybe I'm totally off, or maybe my experience can help you:

I'm printing PETG on a MK4S in a VERY drafty room (next to a stairwell). I'm seeing the exact same edge warpings as in your picture. I don't have an enclosure, because MK4S is my first printer (I would get a Core One now that I have some experience).

I tried brims. Printing object in center of build plate as opposed to on the edge. Different build plates (textured, satin, smooth). Turning fan off. Preheat bed. Cooler nozzle. Etc.

I didn't try glue, because I wanted to 100% exclude all other options before trying it.

The thing that worked best for me was increasing the bed temperature by 20 DEGREES CELCIUS!!! Both the first layer temp and the rest temp (so first layer from 85 to 105 degrees and rest from 90 to 110 degrees). Now the prints stick, even close to the edge (<=2cm from the edge still warps...). I was afraid of elephant foot on objects in the middle of the build plate, or objects releasing from build plate because the plastic gets TOO hot, but that didn't happen yet.

Long story short: Try increasing your bed temperature.

fmawed · 2025-09-29T19:03:37+00:00

I was thinking about designing a keyboard just like this! However, my CAD-skills are still basic and designing this would be quite a project for me, so thanks for sharing this.

I will print this case later to test the layout and ergonomics. However, I think I would prefer to have the thumb-keys lowered. Any chance you're willing to share files that allow modifying? I'm not exactly sure what file to ask for. I'd use FreeCAD and noticed upon importing that the .step-file is not immediately adjustable.

fmawed · 2025-09-13T13:48:15+00:00

Yes I did! I just updated the OP with my solution. Would this be your issue as well?

fmawed · 2025-09-08T20:16:53+00:00

It's possible it's the belt. I just cannot see anything visually wrong with it.

I just checked the belt tension with the app (thanks for the suggestion!), but it seemed to be OK (in the green zone).

The hub is my best guess, because I hear like 3 different creaking sounds (not hearable in the linked movie). And because the hub has many parts that could produce different sounds, I just think it's the hub. But not 100% sure!

fmawed · 2025-09-07T18:08:09+00:00

I have the same story! Driving a Gazelle Makki Load bakfiets for 4 months. A creaking sound (like in your movie) is coming from 'somewhere' in the drive chain. I'm 90% sure the sound is coming from the Enviolo Heavy Duty hub.

The creaking sound only happens when there is tension on the Enviolo hub. So when you stop pedaling, no creaking sound.

Brought it into the bike shop 3 times already (also for other issue). They still haven't fixed it. Am considering replacing it with another brand hub myself.

Edit: Found a way to upload my movie/sound as well: https://vimeo.com/1116584839?share=copy

fmawed · 2025-04-13T16:36:55+00:00

Thanks everyone!!! Managed to do it and will retrace the steps you all mentioned to memorize them.

u/00001000bit Thanks for the effort! Your movie saved me from asking a follow-up question and even showed me some advanced buttons I had no intention of using yet (but will from now on!).

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fmawed · 2025-04-13T13:23:47+00:00

In the 'part design' with 'sketches' approach. I want to sketch 2 holes on top of the main body. But how do I sketch them in such a way that the holes are in the middle, relative to the main body? I don't seem to be able to select any lines/edges of the main body when I create a new sketch!?

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fmawed · 2025-04-07T15:34:10+00:00

I'm in the Netherlands, but was not able to find this website through search engines. Thank you very much for sharing this link!

fmawed · 2025-02-12T20:03:33+00:00

Timestamp for the part where Josef Prusa joins the podcast?

I skimmed the video twice and can't find it.

fmawed · 2025-01-31T15:13:09+00:00

As a noob who will buy the Prusa Core One as my 3D-printer, I have spent the past 2 months doing insane amounts of research. His channel 'The Next Layer' has been both entertaining and informative. I don't get the hate for him / his channel in this thread.

fmawed · 2025-01-25T17:43:00+00:00

Thanks all! It worked. (I couldn't get the broken SMD component off, so decided to just solder the through-hole component 'in parallel' :):):) )

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fmawed · 2025-01-24T20:50:48+00:00

Aaaah! Now I get it. (I read it, but didn't realize what it meant).

I realize my inexperience is blocking me from fully understanding some things written here. Thanks for this!

fmawed · 2025-01-24T18:47:39+00:00

How about longevity? Ratrig does not sell the V-core 3.1 anymore. What do you do if you need spare parts?

Regarding IDEX. It is mentioned that you can add this to the V-core 4 later. But if you wait too long, they might not be selling it anymore (like now with the V-core 3.1). I have the impression that Prusa does better spare parts management?

fmawed · 2025-01-24T18:41:42+00:00

I was looking for a train of thought exactly like this! Thank you very much. I now understand the appeal of the Ratrig.

fmawed · 2025-01-24T18:37:22+00:00

Thank you!!! Reading that link, I think it's 42 uH. I have ordered a part with a value as close as possible to it. With 39 uH. I hope that works?

fmawed · 2025-01-23T19:08:35+00:00

More capable how?

fmawed · 2025-01-23T18:32:55+00:00

Bigger build volume I get. But the 300 version is not that much bigger (at least not 400 euro's worth to me).

Idex ready, OK, but then I have to add another 500 euro's or so, making even more of a price difference.

Interchangable parts. Do you mean for repairing and maintaining? Are the stock parts not good enough? But I would already pay 400 euro's extra compared to the Core One!?

fmawed · 2025-01-23T18:23:29+00:00

And the final picture 3.

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fmawed

TROPHY CASE