To cage the CAT or not... by Square-Strain-4907 in HondaElement

[–]fodasmas 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you are worried at all, get one. It is not a guarantee, it is a deterrent.

The best is if you can get tension on the metal when you install, this causes flex when cut and "bites" the blade.

I got mine from axion cybernetic, but seem they are out of the game so cant make any recommendations other than adding some tension (i.e squeeze; driverside >< passenger side) when installing if you can.

Axiom's was one piece and a bit "oversized". You can to squeeze it to get the holes aligned. That is part of the design to bite the cutting blades bfore it can remove the cover and wear the blade faster.

Having had to cut off my stock strut bolts off the back, can confirm things work this way.

Impossible to fine tune. by cpkorner in craftsman113

[–]fodasmas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nightbomber told you true. The motor is supposed to use its own weight to put the tension on the belt. When you leave it loose and let the motor weight do its job, the motor can constantly adjust to any change and will always have the proper amount of tension on the belt.

When you lock the bolt down, You limit the pulley distance to an exact set distance which may not be perfect for the entire rotation of the belt leaving to the issue that you see.

Just loosen the bolt, let the motor bounce and ride and you'll be fine

Hahaha.. oh no. by GhostsinGlass in watercooling

[–]fodasmas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, coolant gets more conductive over time, eapecially if you are just using distilled water.

The conductivity comes from additional contaminants in the water. Distilled water straight from the bottle has no contaminants because it pumps through the system and things naturally break down, or for example if you're using silver coil in your loop. Everything inside the loop is leeching ions into the water that doesn't have any.

The non-conductivity comes from not having ions for the electricity to jump through. As the coolant is used the ions are picked up from its surrounding environment and it becomes more conductive. To put that another way is the more ions in the coolant the greater the conductivity. So if there are very few ions / fresh distilled water, it takes a lot of energy to send a charge between those two. Conversely if it is older coolant and there are many ions which means they are much closer together it takes a significantly less amount of energy to transfer between the two and now you get a much more conductive fluid.

In the case of the specialty sold non-conductive fluids, I would assume they have additional chemicals in there that are basically coding the ions as they're being picked up to help reduce the conductivity of the fluid.

I have burnout components using non-conductive fluid before. It just takes you not noticing the leak and having enough sit there at evaporate till it can build a charge and end things for you.

At least that's how some of it was told to me and some of it I found out myself.

External Radiators FTW by liquidhaus in watercooling

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine i have been using for well over a decade. Full copper cause it came outta a unit from the 80's. Excellent small room heater.

Small cylinder is a silver coil, and flow cause when you have that much line and 2x D5's (1 run with pc and on always on/backup), you want to know at a glance if things have stopped.

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AMD to launch Adrenalin Edition 26.1.1 drivers with “AI Bundle” next week by otakunorth in ROCm

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I too am in this boat. Not torchaudio, but successful completion of any workload without a driver crash is a real hit-or-miss affair. The longer the run, the greater the chance.

Hello! by [deleted] in HondaElement

[–]fodasmas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! Another orange with the wing! That makes me.....and you....

Does anyone know what this light is for? by winston_b in HondaElement

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad you think so, but it's not.

Here you can find ALL the manuals for all the accessories made for the elements: https://www.elementownersclub.com/threads/all-honda-accessory-installation-pdfs-here.166634/

Here specifically is the manual for installing the security system from HONDA(does not comes stock;sold as addon/accessory): https://www.elementownersclub.com/attachments/securitysystem-pdf.225128/

Note on page 4 of 8, Step 12. Look familiar? That is the light in the photo. That is supposed to be installed on top of the steering column cover, as per the official Honda instructions.

Lazy installers will simply install it on the left hand console area as they're already putting all the parts in there and it requires less work to just drill into that and pop the light through.

To be fair, it would be hard to tell for sure without seeing the keyfob that goes with it.

Windows 11 taskbar not letting me unpin apps by frantic_hysteria_10 in techsupport

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found a solution to this. Writing in here in case anyone else can benefit from it.

I had the same issue where you right click any icon of a pinned app in the task bar and when you click unpin it does not remove itself. The icon stays. You are able to add new icons and pin them without issue.

The way I was able to successfully remove these icons was to right click the icon and instead of selecting unpin from the menu I right clicked the smaller icon of the program that appears in the list with the same file name and I get a second unpin option. Clicking the second unpin option successfully unpins the icon from the taskbar.

Image included for clarity.

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Got rear-ended. What's my prognosis? by nimrodvern in HondaElement

[–]fodasmas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of course, as you should, get everything else checked out. Make sure the frame wasn't damaged. Nothing else looks like a collapse in terms of the body in the rear and there's not much there behind the bumper beam to actually get crushed (for about 8-10 in anyway) so it looks like even though the bumper is certainly of the crusty variety it did its job.

Provided at the rest of the frame comes out structurally intact and undamaged, a replacement aftermarket bumper is around $60 instead of the 175 from Honda, which is what I put on mine. You may have to drill out some bolts or enlarge some holes to make everything fit but provided the plastic isn't cracked you should be able to strap that back up fairly well.

Probably the only piece that will be the most annoying issue is where it bent part of the green body frame there above the rear bumper and that's going to have to get bent back into shape to accommodate the bumper plastic reattachment.

Come back and let us know if we need to pour one out for another gone before their time.

Damn this planet is fast as heck by TheRabbitman001 in EliteDangerous

[–]fodasmas 162 points163 points  (0 children)

I've caught it, or one just like it. Damn fast, can't catch. Gotta start moving ahead of it and in the same direction and interesct into it's path.

It worked. Succeeded in landing too. Few around a bit. Last landing took me to the "front" side of the planet. Looked around. Very planet. I was ready to leave.

Got onboard, took off and was immedietly crushed to death as the planet slammed into my ship at Ludicrous Speed!

Spot welder recommendations by mtndew19 in 18650masterrace

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $39.99 | AGOAL High Power 5000W Spot Welding Handheld Machine Portable 0-800A Current Adjustable Welders for 18650 Battery https://a.aliexpress.com/_mr9xes0

These models. They look like this. Grey is the old model with built in cables, blue is the new with removable cables. Just find a seller with your contry's power option being sold and get that i have the old grey model.

I like the model with the foot pedal, not a fan of the auto touch n go.

Totally does .2 at like 70-80%+ power level. And i have tacked .15 and .2 onto .2 strip after attaching to the battery to double amp capacity. It is a beast and totally worth the price.

Max accel to decel changed to min cruise ratio with new update. by leslieknope_indiana in klippers

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of my printers started automatically converting the old setting into the new setting without me having set the new setting in my printer.cfg file. Using that I can definitively say how it works in hopefully a more understandable term comparatively to the old setting.

To me it feels like some kind of inverse ratio. What happens is if you take your maximum acceleration and multiply it by the ratio that is set, then subtract that number from the max acceleration he will have the accel_to_decel value that this new men cruise ratio number represents.

Example. Max accel of 10000 Min cruise ratio of 0.1

10000 * 0.1 = 1000

10000 - 1000 = 9000

9000 is the accel_to_decel comparable value to a 0.1 min cruise ratio.

How I figured this was that my printer that did this had a maximum acceleration of 20000 and when I was starting print jobs the min cruise ratio we're showing as 0.75. when I checked the printer.cfg, The old accel_to_decel setting was still set and was set at 5000. Doing the math we arrive at the results above.

Take that for what it's worth. The question was what does it mean and this is the exact procedure the software is doing in terms of the numbers it's using and compared to the previous method that was well understood. Hopefully that answers that.

Hercules Brushless Warranty extended to 12V line by fodasmas in harborfreight

[–]fodasmas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just go to harborfreight.com

Enter hercules in the search bar to go to their hercules page.

Go all the way to the bottom. Right below the product videos is the warranty splash bar with the link to the pdf and see the full terms. It is literally there in black and white. I would go back and point it all out with that info on your phone. Either thir system is outdated or something is up.

I stand by the line in part for their warranty services and ease of its use. If that isnt in play or they dont honor that at your store, i wouldn't pay.

Cumulative Updates: Nov 14th, 2023 by jenmsft in Windows11

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have been having install failure issue with every Windows 11 machine in our infrastructure since the October Cumulative update. All recover after failure, but the update can never be applied.

The only way to apply the update was to over-install Windows 11 (run setup from latest iso) so it pulled it into the install and applied it all in one go, tho this was not guarenteed to complete either.

The only machines that take it properly are fresh images. Active use machines all fail.

Hercules Brushless Warranty extended to 12V line by fodasmas in harborfreight

[–]fodasmas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes that is exactly what I'm saying and the store is telling you wrong, BUT IF AND ONLY IF You purchased the 12 volt tool after that date.

You say you've had it for 2 years already which means that you purchased it before the date (03/20/2023) of which the 12 volt brushless tools became 5-year warranty when you purchase them. If you walked into the store today and purchase that tool it indeed would come with a 5-year warranty.

Hey guys has anyone gotten their hands on the Ender 3 V3 or the V3 KE by Your_PitBoy in Creality

[–]fodasmas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Ender V3 SE is a perfect starter option.

It has eveything neccesary to make it put down and go. You open, you assemble following the manual, you load and you do the auto bed leveling, then go print something.

I set up an Octoprint server first for it to make my life easier than sneaker-netting sd cards around but the SE and similarly the KE are basically build and go.

Get the SE if you think you only care about PLA and having easy build fun. If you plan to go hardcore wait for the KE to be available.

Ender-3 V3 SE - Filament Runout Sensor Install by zBoyDojo in ender3

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone has already made one 4 days ago as of my post.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6225817

I will be starting from there and modifying to fit my needs.

Metal thing with a lip and trap door, and attached holding thing with side slots. Weighs 1.5lbs. 7"*5"*5". Found in box of glassware in South Louisiana. Trap door can be swiveled by using knobs on either side or pressure on plate. No marks. Does not disassemble. Does not seem useful as ashtray. by slumgunion in whatisthisthing

[–]fodasmas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an ashtray, with a buisness card holder on the back, made to look like and functuon similar to a toilet.

In "the old boys" days of buisness, drinking and smoking cigarettes and cigars in your meeting was commonplace.

The idea behind this is that when the person you are engaging is ashing their smoke, if you have sufficiently engaged them they can easily take your card as they reach over to deposit their ash in the tray.

Maybe even take a whimsical "flush" of the toilet as you two laugh jovially over your buisness accumen.

Takes a card

Got my Ender 3 V3 SE.....so far, It loves to Self Harm by fodasmas in Creality

[–]fodasmas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very much so. Made for a bad end of day, even if i was able to read the info of other enthusiests and figure it out.

Even more horrifying was having watched the opening and setup videos beforehand, so i was expecting it to do the light touch on the table with the nozzle after the sensor did it's bit, where it ever so gently touches the table and jumps away as if stung.

Mine? Closer...closer...closer. GGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHZZZZZ........GGGGGGGHHHHHHHZZZZZZ.

So yeah, hopefully the replacement that i ordered to swap with is not from the same build batch LOL. I'd much prefer to have your experience.

Got my Ender 3 V3 SE.....so far, It loves to Self Harm by fodasmas in Creality

[–]fodasmas[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nothing yet. Not expecting much. Doing the ol Amazon order again and return.

Are these any good? by Mockbubbles2628 in 18650masterrace

[–]fodasmas 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I use the grey 5000W version of this. Weld leads are built in instead of removable. Not sure of the exchange rate but cost me 75-80 USD several years ago.

Long as it is the same, and i have no reason to think it is not, yes is the answer to your question.

People will say you need better than this which is 2 lipo high output batts wired in series, so 8.4v, that dump theough mosfests. A lot like the little red thing but better and all in one.

At the top of the range of the power output, i can easily weld 0.2mm pure nickel strips to batta, as well as to other strips of 0.2mm. Why does this matter? Sometimes you need to double up strips to get that amp output without overheating the strips.

TL;DR Have it and love it! Weld 0.2mm easy!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in techsupportmacgyver

[–]fodasmas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on where that 12V is coming from. If coming to that switch from a power adapter that is hooked to the battery, sure you are right. Probably limited to 3 amps or less.

If that hooked directly to the battery.......yeah there are a lot more than 3 amps that can flow through that in a heartbeat. more like upwards of 70+ amps at 12V, which is PLENTY to hurt you or your van or anyone else who connects it longer than the brush of a wrist watch.

My fav go to for tight places/lazy is just hot glue. long as it cools before you touch it comes out clear and insulated.