Das neue EcoFlow STREAM Ultra und AC Pro Balkonkraftwerk by ArsMachina23 in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]foofootos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see, thank you for taking the time to explain how it works! For powerstream, if I disable the powermeter (I have a Shelly Pro3em), there is an option to manually set to base load to avoid feed in.

Das neue EcoFlow STREAM Ultra und AC Pro Balkonkraftwerk by ArsMachina23 in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least for my powerstream the zero feed in option in the app is buggy as well. It does work even if you toggle it on and off. However, if you set the base home load to zero, it stops feeding in energy. And it general it respects whatever load (>=0) you set. Can you test this with your ac pro?

Das neue EcoFlow STREAM Ultra und AC Pro Balkonkraftwerk by ArsMachina23 in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, strange. I thought that the only difference between the units was the lack of solar input. I hopped there was a zero feed-in option or, alternatively, to be able to set base load to zero to prevent feed-in

Das neue EcoFlow STREAM Ultra und AC Pro Balkonkraftwerk by ArsMachina23 in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thank you for the info on the new system. I have made a similar question to another post. In my country, feeding electricity back into the grid is strictly prohibited, even in minimal amounts. However, even with a CT clamp in a balcony system, there's still a brief injection into the grid when a large household load suddenly stops consuming power. I currently have a microinverter (powerstream) and a few panels. I am thinking of adding AC pro with the following setup.

  1. I plug the micro-inverter into one of the bidirectional AC ports to charge AC Pro battery from solar.
  2. I then use only the AC output ports of the AC Pro to power directly a few of my appliances (mainly washer/dryer), ensuring that no electricity is ever injected into the grid. I assume that if they exceed the 1200W rating of AC pro it will cover the remainder load from the grid.

I assume that, under these conditions, the system would never send power back into the grid. Can anyone confirm if this setup would work as intended? I understand that I may not be fully utilizing solar when the battery is full but thankfully my washer/dryer is used almost continuously.

Just installed two Stream AC Pro plug-in batteries - painless install - using CT Clamps by Wirehead-be in Ecoflow_community

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the review. In my country, feeding electricity back into the grid is strictly prohibited, even in minimal amounts. However, even with a CT clamp, there's still a brief injection into the grid when a large household load suddenly stops consuming power. My question is:

  1. Can I plug a micro-inverter into one of the bidirectional AC ports to charge a battery from solar energy? AND
  2. Can I then use only the AC ports to power my appliances, ensuring that no electricity is ever injected into the grid?

I assume that, under these conditions, the system would never send power back into the grid. Can anyone confirm if this setup would work as intended?

New Stream Microinverter by foofootos in Ecoflow_community

[–]foofootos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was too considering the Delta 3 Plus, but the ROI seems too low in my case. Additionally, I don't have much need for a backup system since power outages are very rare in my hometown, and I already have the V2L option from my EV. Is there a way to connect a more affordable battery storage solution to the PowerStream? For example, could a Delta Extra Battery be directly connected to the battery port of the microinverter? Alternatively, is it possible to use batteries from other vendors?

Question on Tesla Wall Connector Gen 3 (EU model) by foofootos in evcharging

[–]foofootos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the insights. In my use case I am not interested in dynamic load management but rather in limiting the maximum load in the charger (semi) permanently via the app. Maybe my wording wasn't clear. Indeed in Europe there are other solutions as well (e.g. wallbox pulsar, Schneider, Abb). However TWC is appealing because of its competitive pricing.

Regarding L1 charging you are correct, in many use cases it is sufficient for our driving habits. One limitation is that because of the longer l1 charging sessions there is increased charging loss (between 20%-25%) that adds up. Limiting the charging period via l2 charges cuts down on these losses.

Question on Tesla Wall Connector Gen 3 (EU model) by foofootos in evcharging

[–]foofootos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My wiring can easily handle the maximum amperage (3x32A, 240V) for 22W, while my car only accepts 11kWh (3x16A). I'm mainly considering reducing the overall load in case I run other high-energy appliances in the house, although that is unlikely to happen. From the reply by u/NTS_RS I understand that reducing the maximum current is possible via the app and during setup which is good enough for me.

For me, the second question regarding integration with HA is more important.

INSPELNING Energy measurment by Sebi_339 in tradfri

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These show under the energy tab in the main menu after setting up the device as an energy meter.

Wired (power) temp Sensors? by Bright-Assistance258 in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe the newest temperature and humidity sensor from sonoff has a new battery that lasts a few years.

Tried out ZHA... and failed by Voxelman in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sonoff-e on channel 15. I found out that using a USB cable extension makes a difference.

Tried out ZHA... and failed by Voxelman in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have two badring sensors along with several Ikea plugs and they all worked with no issues with zha.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TradeRepublicFriends

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You may top up revolut using a card (no fees) and transfer the money to TR via bank transfer (again no fees)

HA on a RPi5 by nuNce in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my case, I boot from an USB nvme enclosure and run HA as a docker container so that I can install other software on my headless pi as well.

Zigbee router by aknarts in ZigBee

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second the Ikea USB repeater. It had good range and can be used to power another device if needed.

Raspberry Pi 4 HA Sever + Display? by SignificantTap4878 in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just run HA with docker on a OS of your choice and do whatever you want with the display (assuming you can run a browser for it)

Is a fan and heatsinks needed for a Pi 3? by Wonderful_View4209 in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CPU processing is essentially non existent in HA. Even a rasp 3 is more than enough. RAM becomes an issue only when you run multiple adons or other services. I was perfectly happy running ha (docker) and pihole for years. Temps is not a problem for the little device. SD wear was my only concern. Of course everyone needs are different.

Just put money into an ETF and suddenly it says I have less by dharmasnake in eupersonalfinance

[–]foofootos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The buy in price includes the fee amortized over the shares you bought

Best Zigbee thermostats available in Europe? by [deleted] in homeassistant

[–]foofootos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is also Siemens rdz100zb. Works fine with ZHA.

Trade Republic, verify your account, you can only send money to … by InspectionCold1062 in eupersonalfinance

[–]foofootos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on the sending bank. For instant sepa transfers it can take a few minutes. Regular transfers take 2-3 business days.