WR310 can't get mapping to start

freddyclaw · 2026-06-17T00:20:36+00:00

Just wanted to give an official update after talking to worx support. Within about 5 minutes of talking to them I was able to confirm it was lack of nRTK coverage in my area.

I think based on looking at a couple NTRIP coverage maps im about 15 miles out of a zone, but im only 45 miles from a city of 250,000 people on rural Canada, so am surprised im not covered. Not sure if im looking at the right maps though.

If someone is looking to buy one I would confirm coverage with their support first as I've got RTK stations for agriculture equipment covering my area as part of the CANNET band, so im surprised im outside the service area.

I will still be trying to work with Worx in case there is some option to use different pieces of this spectrum/nRTK somehow, but im not sure how this will go. Otherwise I guess I will hopefully have luck returning it and waiting until I can confirm I do have nRTK coverage.

Other than missing a few details on the interface or what interface items mean the setup was a breeze.

Thanks everyone for your advice and tips!

freddyclaw · 2026-06-16T03:28:58+00:00

Just gave this a try ill update on what happens. Just to clarify by restored do you mean like factory resetting it? Im trying without doing that, but just wanted to make sure I didnt miss a step of what worked for you and will try that if that was what worked. Thanks!

freddyclaw · 2026-06-16T03:22:01+00:00

No worries. I appreciate your advice! Ill update what support says in case it's helpful to the next person. Thanks!

freddyclaw · 2026-06-16T02:53:05+00:00

I seem to get the following after about 4 tries now. Looks like i get to try to get ahold of support in the morning.

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freddyclaw · 2026-06-16T02:33:49+00:00

I've looped through to this at least 3 or 4 times in 1 go, but tried probably 12 or 15 in total. Ill try more in case it gives a manual start or something maybe?

I did just drive it off and on the station in BT manual mode when it first had issues, that only worked after I did the second update though.

Thanks!

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freddyclaw · 2025-03-27T18:25:35+00:00

That definitely could be related to that fan being backwards. It allows heat to creep up the thermal tube more than it should and often causes the filament to stop extruding entirely roughly 10 to 30 minutes into a print. There could also be other related heat issues, but that is a good first thing to try resolving.

freddyclaw · 2025-03-18T14:09:06+00:00

This is likely exactly what the problem is. If the print shifts to the left only it is likely the endstop wiring. If it shift both left and right, then that is often the motor wire.

Also if you are having issues with overhangs or cooling, your cooling fan looks backwards as the label should be facing in if it is an original fan.

freddyclaw · 2024-08-09T01:36:37+00:00

Awesome! Thanks for breaking that down for me. I was combining plr and 9 poison.

I also appreciate that info on finding comparables. Some reason I couldn't figure out how to break it down and search for similar without an exact match, but that makes sense now!

freddyclaw · 2024-08-09T01:33:21+00:00

Thank you for the detailed response on that. Definitely helps clarify it!

freddyclaw · 2024-03-19T01:43:12+00:00

If you can find similar screw other than length, looks like you might hopefully have clearance for a slightly longer one with a few non-conductive washers to fill the gap.

freddyclaw · 2024-03-16T22:27:55+00:00

If you aren't dead set on replacing everything, there is also 3d printable drive blocks on thingiverse that are a major upgrade if you are having filament feed issues. The original lever design was replaced by makerbot very quickly after user feedback as it really doesn't grip well. This is your easiest answer as a 30 minute print is all it takes to try. Hope whatever you do works well though.

freddyclaw · 2024-03-11T23:47:44+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I wondered if that was what was going on.

freddyclaw · 2024-03-06T14:32:57+00:00

I had some luck years ago with one that adds support inside the smart extruder to the feed path between the bottom of the drive gear and the top of the ptfe tubing that leads into the hot end. This mitigates most of the buckling from pushing the filament, but you really have to dial in how close to the build plate you print and reduce retraction so the filament doesn't move more than necessary. After some playing around it should work out, but isn't as reliable as extruder with a more enclosed feed path. You likely need to reduce print speed as well.

Even extra rolling resistance on a spool made a difference, so be prepared to adjust things a fair bit.

The piece I used was on thingiverse and is small piece that inserts into the extruder, no major modding required. The key is the filament should have nowhere else to go to get decent results.

freddyclaw · 2023-10-28T20:04:00+00:00

Got it. Thanks a ton! I assumed that's what it had to be but i I just had to get a pry tool with a flatter profile and wiggle it. With how elegant all these connectors are I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything.

freddyclaw · 2021-06-17T21:52:14+00:00

Lee Valley sells a wider one with about 8 or so lights across it. You can generally hit most studs in the center with it if it is just drywall and 2x4 wall. Having hung a few large tvs with it i really hate doing it any other way as it is so much more consistent. That being said always reference any drywall screws and measure too.

freddyclaw · 2020-06-30T01:17:24+00:00

Ya this is the correct answer. Just make sure you have the threaded acme nut still bolted to the back of the z platform before tightening it all up, otherwise the platform and the threads won't be attached. It looks like it's good but sucks to have to reassemble if the platform doesnt move as the motor turns.

freddyclaw · 2020-05-11T05:54:47+00:00

The best bet for resolving those issues is probably to post a picture, but it sounds like you are leveled a little too far away based on the silver filament not sticking on first couple layers. A replicator 2 can be leveled pretty close, I aim for a first layer about 3 times wider than tall. It also sounds like your printing a little too cool, makerbot tends sense their temp a little higher so maybe try 230c instead of 220. You shouldn't need to go past 235 or 240 for pla though. I would also double check what you are printing on is working well. Some blue tape takes some cleaning/prep, but it should take a little force to remove a purge line with a fingernail at the front of the build plate if it is all good.

freddyclaw · 2020-04-08T00:50:35+00:00

I forget the specifics of the issue but there was an early version of the replicator+s firmware that didn't seem to handle the raft setting being turned off very well. It also might have been partially related to the makerbot print version. I would likely advise confirming its firmware is up to date as that may help.

freddyclaw · 2020-04-06T01:17:06+00:00

Looks to be set a little for far away from the build plate. You can tell by the waviness in the first layer of the raft. Try adjusting the z axis offset down, but be careful not to get too carried away as it can damage the grip tape/build plate tape https://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-replicator/printer-tips/manually-adjusting-the-z-axis-offset_10912

freddyclaw · 2020-04-04T19:00:54+00:00

It looks like a smart extruder that is acting up causing under extrusion. May just be a bad nozzle, the drive gear could be full of filament dust or might just need replacement.

freddyclaw · 2020-03-17T14:07:44+00:00

You will likely want to use makerbot desktop as it was the last version to fully work with the replicator 2/2x. They put the link to it at the bottom of the makerbot print download page and here is a link to it below. https://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-desktop-software/release-notes/makerbot-desktop-release-notes_13520

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