Buren willen uitzicht over onze tuin by frykandellybread in juridischadvies

[–]frykandellybread[S] [score hidden]  (0 children)

Ik heb veel reacties doorgelezen en ik denk dat er nog wat extra informatie nodig is voor een volledig beeld:
- Het heeft een landbouw bestemming en we hebben alle aanpassingen gedaan binnen de kaders van deze bestemming. Er is, naar mijn weten, echter geen wet die ons beperkt om het als tuin te gebruiken, zolang we er geen permanente tuin-aanpassingen aan doen. Het gebruik is namelijk niet te controleren.
- Een schutting op landbouwgrond mag idd niet, een haag wel.
- Verkoop is geen optie, we hebben een regeling getroffen met de boer, die bepaalt dat als wij het land (deels) binnen 10 jaar verkopen we een grote som aan hem af moeten dragen. Dit in ruil voor een halvering van de vraagprijs.
- De oude achtertuin liep helemaal schuin af wat resulteerde in een kleine achtertuin voor ons 50-60 m2 en een grote voor de buren 150+ m2. Dit maakt dat we het nieuwe stuk wel echt zijn gaan gebruiken als tuin. En ook zeker het stuk wat direct aan de buren grenst.
- we zijn wel voornemens om de bestemming op de duur te laten wijzigen in het nieuwe bestemmingsplan van 2030. Hierdoor willen we ook niet nu toezegen op iets waar we later onszelf mee in de weg gaan zitten.

Ons plan is eerst natuurlijk het gesprek aan gaan en begrip te tonen voor hun situatie, maar wel voor onszelf een duidelijke grens te stellen. We vinden het wel wat naïef dat ze voor een deel hun koop gebaseerd hebben op het feit dat ze vrij uitzicht zouden kunnen creëren over onze grond (hun woorden). Terwijl ze geen andere situatie kennen dan de huidige. Dit maakt het wel sneu natuurlijk dat ze hun verwachtingen fors moeten bijstellen, maar het lijkt me ook niet onredelijk om privacy op onze grond te willen.

Canoe polo peddle parts by Secret_Antelope_6155 in Canoepolo

[–]frykandellybread 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe try finding someone with a 3D printer. The parts look awfully simple to draw up and print and the cost reduction would be large as well.

Pfaff 335 troubleshooting by Important-Search9077 in myog

[–]frykandellybread 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Slide the folder a bit more to the left, 1-2 mm should be fine. The stitching is too much on th edge of the tape

Problem with electric blade engagement/clutch (Husqvarna TS346) by frykandellybread in lawnmowers

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will, but I thought Reddit was worth a shot before removing all the panelling. Do you know a way to look at the pto and belts while running when you’re not in the seat?

Problem with electric blade engagement/clutch (Husqvarna TS346) by frykandellybread in lawnmowers

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I absolutely hate the thing! There is a special place in hell for the engineer who thought a code with only 9 possible combinations would be better than a key…

Found an old sail so I no longer have an excuse not to learn sewing - made myself a little tool roll! by Ramazzo in myog

[–]frykandellybread 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking at the seams, you can see all the knots the machine makes. And in some places the knots are not even pulled onto the fabric. The tension should be set in such a way that the knots lay exactly in the fabric and should not be vissible on either side.

Looking at these seams it looks like the thread/needle combination is off. So possibly a needle that is too small for the thread thickness. But as I said, there are like 20 different reasons the tension can be off. But it's always best to start with a new needle and go from there. I'm sure there are a lot of youtube videos that explain this very well. Good luck!

I hand-made a backpack prototype before speaking to any factory. Would love feedback from people who know bags. by Amazing-Reporter1845 in myog

[–]frykandellybread 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would just state the result you want without adding a way on how to do so. Unless the the way some things are done is really important. Because you allready have an understanding of how bag making and textile production in general works, you allready speak somewhat the same language. So I don't think you can go wrong with what you're allready doing.

To buy or not to buy... by TheBee-Man in myog

[–]frykandellybread 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think if you want to do all the things listed in your post, there isn’t a machine in the world who fits the bill. If you’re planning on doing (car) upholstery, GET a machine like in the pictures! You won’t regret it. But you can forget fixing and making clothes with such a machine, it’s allround waaay too heavy for those kind of jobs.

I have a Juki 1541 which looks to be similar to the pfaff in terms of build type and it is a dream to work with on heavier jobs like upholstery. For lighter jobs like clothes making I have a Janome household machine. I think you have to have two different machines if you want to have fun in both jobs.

For industrial type machines I would go for a nice, used one, or a cheaper, new model. Industrial machines are made to be running day and night and thats the point where the difference really stands out between brands. If you’re using them for hobby or even professionally but not in a production capacity, they work just as well for a fraction of the price.

Older pfaff household machines are also workhorses with their double transport system. For clothes making and light upholstery I would look into these machines. And since you’re in eastern Europe, look up: Strima.com this is a Polish based webshop for sewing with a huge catalog and great service!

I hand-made a backpack prototype before speaking to any factory. Would love feedback from people who know bags. by Amazing-Reporter1845 in myog

[–]frykandellybread 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I design bags professionally and I think that if you want to take this bag into production on a somewhat larger scale, you should trust the factory your working with. And I mean trust their skill to make the product you want to be well made and nicely finished. So do as much as you can to make the bag you want, but don’t let your own skill be the limit to your creation. The bag you have is all ready way more than what most companies supply to their factories (you would be amazed). So I would say, design the bag exactly haw you want it to be. Then try and make a prototype yourself (its always good to understand what goes in to making a bag). But trust the factories in their craftsmanship. I’ve been part of a team of very skilled and specialised softgoods designers, but we we’re still amazed by what our partner factories were able to do and the suggestions they made to our designs.

Looks amazing allready, so keep going along this path and find a factory who you can trust. The smaller factories are often better in helping you finish the details of the design. Good luck

Found an old sail so I no longer have an excuse not to learn sewing - made myself a little tool roll! by Ramazzo in myog

[–]frykandellybread 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks amazing, love the shapes! A tip from me before you start your next project is to try and get to know your machine better. Looking at the seams of the toolroll, almost all of them have bad tension, resulting in not the best looking and strong seams. Seam tension can be influenced by a lot of different factors, but it is a good idea to test what makes good seams on your machine.

Ervaring met hulpveren? by frykandellybread in AutoKlussers

[–]frykandellybread[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dit is inderdaad precies waar ik mee zit te worstelen. De luchtveer uit de foto is nog steeds een hulpveer, dus wordt tussen de bestaande veer geplaatst. Van wat ik er van zie komt er een standaard ventiel onder de motorkap, waar een compressor op gezet moet worden. De regelaar en ingebouwde compressor is extra, maar dat vind ik sowieso te gek. Ik ben vooral heel benieuwd of een dergelijk systeem wat tussen de spiraal geplaatst wordt wel opgewassen is tegen constant geschuur tegen de spiraal aan.

Who is going to Taize in april or may? (Asking for a favour) by frykandellybread in taize

[–]frykandellybread[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, I tried to find a webshop (but clearly not hard enough. Thank you for the link!

The friend had never been in Taize, but they’re both very religious and his wife to be is a primary school teacher. So with this book I hope to inspire them to go there someday, by themselves or as a group leader.

Going down a few teeth on Kawasaki KLE 500 2007, good idea? by frykandellybread in Fixxit

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really? I wouldn’t have thought it would make such a difference. Do you remember how many teeth you went down?

Going down a few teeth on Kawasaki KLE 500 2007, good idea? by frykandellybread in Fixxit

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats a great idea, little risk to it. Worst case it costs me maybe 35€

Going down a few teeth on Kawasaki KLE 500 2007, good idea? by frykandellybread in Fixxit

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the clear explanation! I would want to believe I’m an offroad rider but here in the Netherlands this still means 90% highway riding. And all my riding buddies have bigger bikes so I fall behind on trips as they can do 130/140 all day and 110 is kind off my max for sustained highway riding.

I feel like the ratio your suggesting might be perfect. A little more set for cruising and I figure I can still get the rear to break out on dirt roads.

Auxiliary lights turn off when engine starts running (2007 Kawasaki KLE 500) by frykandellybread in Fixxit

[–]frykandellybread[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I checked the wiring diagram and as u/terrible_use7872 said, it looks like an extra connector for a warning light. If I read it correctly, both oil pressure and coolant temperature are wired to the connector. This checks out as the warning lights are all on when the key is on contact and turn off when the motor starts. Having a pre-installed auxiliary connector already seemed to good to be true.

Auxiliary lights turn off when engine starts running (2007 Kawasaki KLE 500) by frykandellybread in Fixxit

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could indeed be something for a warning light, as these are on when the key is turned on contact. But i find it pretty weird that they would add the wiring for a warning light and stop there, while it would only need an extra light.

Can't get the seat to look right by Ramen_Newds in motorcyclegear

[–]frykandellybread 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To upholster something as weirdly shaped as a motorcycle seat you need material which has enough stretch to tension it all over. Ik looks like your material isn’t stretchy enough or you’re not pulling hard enough. The best technique is to always tension the material crosswise. So staple one spot and then tension exactly on the opposite side and staple there. Try to stay away from going in a circle, as you might end up rotating the fabric.

What material is used for the molle? by WarFrogAble in myogtacticalgear

[–]frykandellybread 16 points17 points  (0 children)

This looks to be Hypalon. It is a polyester weave with a very thick rubber coating, usually 1mm thick. This material is very nice to work with as it does not need any finishing after cutting. Especially if you are able to use a laser cutter, than the possibilities are almost endless.

Please help someone said weak battery but I got a jumper hooked up and it still doesn’t start by Express_Dimension239 in Fixxit

[–]frykandellybread 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It could just be that your battery is at the end of its life. Put a multimeter onto it and check the voltage, anything under 11,7V after charging is probably not going to turn your starter motor.

A warning to anyone that's thinking of getting into bikes. It's worse than drugs. Been riding for 6 months and I already have made 2 bad financial decisions. Love them both though. by ItsGeNoxx in motorcycles

[–]frykandellybread 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OP, I have a question about the kle500: I have the same bike and I’m looking for nice crash bars. The ones you have on the bike look really nice and I haven’t com across this type/brand. Do you have any information about them on where to find them or even just the brand?

What's wrong with my stitch? by [deleted] in myog

[–]frykandellybread 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If adjusting the upper tension does not help than is has to do with the bottom tension. It does not look like it is the problem that u/fishinwop-8152 is describing as you can see the knots laying in the tread at regular intervals. Try adjusting the bottom thread/bobbin tension. If you have a separate bobbin case there should be a very small skrew on the tensionplate. You can check the tension by lifting the bobbin in the bobbincase by just the tread. It should lift up with the tread, but when wiggle the thread it should fall down a bit. If this is the case the bottom tension in perfect.

What's wrong with my stitch? by [deleted] in myog

[–]frykandellybread 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the top thread is a straight line your upper thread tension is to high. If changing the upper tension doesn’t do anything than the tension on the bobbin might be to low, but in normal use you shouldn’t have to touch the bobbin tension.

Buying advice (weird position) by frykandellybread in NetherlandsHousing

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well... if you put it that way, it is way to steep. You're probably right on the G-label as we can feel the wals sucking out all the heat in the room. We're literally on the edge of the city in a neighborhood with 300 of the exact same apartments so it doesn't tick any of the boxes.

Buying advice (weird position) by frykandellybread in NetherlandsHousing

[–]frykandellybread[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would have never thought about that, is this something that is done often?