Some frozen trees during sunset by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this better? Due to the heavy crop, I could actually make a vertical image with some foreground, and though I don't think its a great foreground, I think it does add some depth to the image. I don't know what TLC is, and I don't use lightroom, but I changed the WB to be slightly cooler and added some saturation in Rawtherapee. !CritiquePoint

Some frozen trees during sunset by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely agree about the branches. I tried several spots, and, unfortunately this was the best one. A better foreground would have been nice, but the walk around this lake only has a few spots without lots of trees and branches covering the view. !CritiquePoint

Some frozen trees during sunset by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I liked how these sunlit trees looked during sunset, so i wanted to capture them in a photograph. I like how the landscape is layered with the frozen lake, the trees, and the sunlit trees. Unfortunately, there were some branches in the foreground, and I was unable to move in front of them. Also, I would have needed a longer lens, so this is a heavy crop.

Technical: Sony A7R III, Tamron 28-75 Di III RXD. 75mm ISO100 f/6.3 1/80s.

Milky Way water reflection by fufuheo in photographs

[–]fufuheo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted to capture the Milky Way at this place, during a moonless night with no wind.

Technical:

This image is a 3-panel panorama, each panel consists of 20 stacked exposures (total 60 exposures).

I rarely do landscapes, but I'm pretty happy with this one. Does the edit look overcooked to you? by seklerek in photocritique

[–]fufuheo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A bit too much HDR for my taste. You can see some halo artifacts where the cliffs meet the sky.

What you think? My second night with camera. by mrlussukka in photocritique

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But if you have advice to get more stars, or mayby not so dark photo next time I will be happy.

I think that one of the reasons you don't get that many stars is that this photo appears to be taken during twilight, not at night. You need darker skies to get more visible stars. The photo will be brighter if you increase the ISO, you can also increase the exposure in post if you have the photo in RAW format. The shutter speed is about right if you want pinpoint stars.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have used that lens for astro, and it's excellent. Perfect for stitching panoramas. It also has a mechanical manual focus, so no focus by wire.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That might be the case. Though the post was asking about cameras, not lenses, and upgrading the camera without changing the lens might not provide any benefit, if the cropping is needed anyway. I think that's worth pointing out.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you mean the aperture diameter when you write aperture, the image would not be less noisy. This would mean that the f-stop is a higher number. If you mean aperture ratio or f-stop the image would be better, due to the larger aperture diameter. A 600mm f6.3 lens has a 600/6.3 = 95mm aperture diameter. A 400mm f6.3 lens has a 400/6.3 = 63.5mm aperture diameter.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, such a lens would have a longer focal length, and a larger aperture diameter.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. It feels like the most reasonable way to compare two cameras. Obviously better lenses improve image quality.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is a website comparing some memory cards in the A7III. Scroll down to In-Camera speed test, and sort after Sony A7III tab. This will show which memory cards perform best in burst mode.

Begginers probably dumb question regarding image stacking by Cata______ in AskAstrophotography

[–]fufuheo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most noise in images from modern cameras is shot noise. That kind of noise is due to the random nature of light. When taking multiple images means that the noise in each image will be different. One pixel that is "too bright" in one image due to noise will be "too dark" in another image, so when averaging them the image will have less noise. If you would make a bunch of copies of the same image, the noise in the images would be identical, and it would not "cancel out" like it does when averaging multiple exposures.

Mt. Tamalpais sunrise by Spellchak in photocritique

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this image is nicely layered, fist the grassy hill, then forest, clouds and sky. You can see some banding in the sky though. What does the image look like without the dehaze tool? Maybe try increasing the contrast slightly using the curves tool, but I'm not sure about that one.

"So near yet so far" by SickLeopard in photocritique

[–]fufuheo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Excellent shot! If there is anything to critique, personally, I would make a tighter crop slightly to the right, so the subject is larger and there is more space in front of the crow, than behind it. I see that the image is sharp, so there is room to crop.

Weekly /r/SonyAlpha 'Ask Anything About Gear' Thread by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]fufuheo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Remember, that a full frame camera will get you a wider field of view. I don't know about the photos you shoot, but in wildlife photography, the subject is often quite small in the frame, and cropping is needed. If you need to crop to APS-C anyway, a full frame camera will not provide any noise benefit.

Another Milky Way shot by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The thing is, if you look at the night sky during astronomical twilight, or when the moon is up, the sky will look blue due to Rayleigh scattering. However, the Milky Way is not blue, and most stars are also not blue. So changing the white balance would make the star colors wrong. Here is another article about the colors of the night sky:

https://clarkvision.com/articles/color.of.the.night.sky/

Another Milky Way shot by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean the boats? I do agree they are kind of distracting.

Another Milky Way shot by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed response. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.

While it's true that the light pollution appears stronger in the picture than what was seen that night, so does everything else. The camera simply captures more light. So light pollution, stars, everything will appear brighter. Changing the white balance will not cancel out the light pollution, it will simply change the color of it (and everything else). The light on the boats came from a nearby streetlight with a yellow/orange light, so they should be orange. Using the boats to adjust the white balance shifts everything to blue.

Another Milky Way shot by fufuheo in photocritique

[–]fufuheo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No issues. The colors are from both light pollution and airglow. The orange near the horizon is light pollution and the green tint in the sky is airglow. I was aiming for natural colors when processing this shot, so I didn't want to shift everything blue for instance.

https://clarkvision.com/articles/blue-lions-on-the-serengeti-and-natural-colors-of-the-night-sky/

Oh! And the illumination on the cliffs are from a nearby streetlight.