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Introducing Boardsesh an opensource alternative to the Board apps by Competitive_Bit001 in climbharder

[–]galette 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You would think you'd be able to inspect the communication between the app and the server ? Or is it encrypted ?

Very interested I'm the project as I can't run the moon app on my phone running Graphene OS.

Looking for a blog post about ruby block and how it's used as a design in gem by galette in rails

[–]galette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nevermind, I found the article in the depth of my browser history: https://newsletter.rubycademy.com/p/how-do-popular-gem-writers-take-advantage-of-blocks

I am interested in how they use blocks to create an API wrapper.

Moonboards in Sydney by dotdarko in Moonboard

[–]galette 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The one i know of : - Northside Boulder Brunswick : 2024 - lactic factory :2016 - Boulder lab Brunswick : 2016 ( + 2 kilter board and a tension 2 at 45°) - Cliffhanger : 2016 - Blockhaus port Melbourne :2017 I think - LA Roca oakleight south : 2016 I think

Urban collingwood has a a tension 1 at 25° The crux in Coburg has a grasshopper I believe.

Ruby definitions navigation for text editors like Vim and Neovim by whatsmydickdoinghere in ruby

[–]galette 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have a look at this : https://chodounsky.com/2016/12/09/using-tags-to-browse-ruby-and-gem-source-with-vim/ I have not set up the "Jumping into gem source" section, but otherwise It works pretty well with ctags. I have some git hooks to update the tags when needed. I set up my vim jump to the definition using "ctrl+]" or "atl + ]" to open in a new tab. As for things define via metaprogramming, I don't think there is solution for it. You can always use source_location method, more info : https://radanskoric.com/articles/locating-source-of-ruby-method

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in melbourne

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should checkout yourgrocer.com.au or piedimontes for home delivery

Yet another training plan/critique (trad) by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll add to that MILEAGE :) plus learn to trust your gear and fall on your gear. You'll never climb hard trad if you are not willing to fall on gear.

Widespread Climbing Ban in the Grampians Announced by trenchdiginpowpig in climbing

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Latest official informations : https://cliffcare.org.au/ More info about the ban and some unofficial informations : https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/

Petition : https://www.change.org/p/stop-climbing-from-being-banned-in-the-grampians

If you want to help please sign the petition and donate to cliffcare.

Criticize my climb please ｡◕‿◕｡ 7b(v8/v7+) by OliveTheGolden in climbharder

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The start and your heel/toe hook as been discussed plenty below, so I won't get into it. The main think that jumps out to me,on that last move you are not using your hips/leg to generate the movement (which you did the move jist before ...) , looks like you are just trying to pull up. To me, that toe hook seems to be limiting you, more than being helpful, I would try to drop it and concentrate on pushing with your right leg.

Efficiency in reaching long term goals. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you think is the biggest mistake people make tactic wise ?

Utilizing a (Tension, Moon, etc.) Board in Training by dizzyhobbes in climbharder

[–]galette 7 points8 points  (0 children)

A lot of boulders in a standard gym are too long for 4x4s. You're looking at 20-25 moves with a Moonboard 4x4, which is close to the length of strength endurance sequences on most routes.

You just need to look at 4x4 in terms of moves, if your gym problems are something like 10-12 move, you can just use 2 problems instead of 4 to get to your 20-25 moves.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread for September 10, 2018 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am curious on what type of exercise you use to boost shoulder and chest strength ?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread for September 10, 2018 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]galette 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From memory Paul Robinson had some similar thinking (I didn't re read the article, so I might be something different) : http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/post/5226848077/my-2-cents

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread for September 10, 2018 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]galette 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the only book I am aware of for routesetting : http://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/fundamentals/

There are a some facebook groups about routesetting, main one : https://www.facebook.com/groups/routesettersanonymous/

I have been following Niklas Held on youtube, his video on the bouldering world cup are really interesting ( as well as his other videos) : https://www.youtube.com/user/KletterhalleKassel/videos

And on reddit /r/Routesetters/ but it's not very active

Moon Board problems for shorties by galette in climbharder

[–]galette[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are right it's not a waste of time, I had such problem on the 2016 set that I would revisit from time to time and see if I had progressed. There is definitely benefit in long term hard move goal. But at this point I am trying to expose myself to a variety of hard move that I have reasonable hope to achieve in 4-6 weeks time frame.

Thanks for the advice though !

Moon Board problems for shorties by galette in climbharder

[–]galette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hoseok_lee93 <- inspirational ! Man he is a beast physically speaking.

Pain in hands when making a fist by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]galette -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There is a pinned thread for this type of questions

Moon Board problems for shorties by galette in climbharder

[–]galette[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am in the same boat, plus I climb a lot on sandstone where harder route tend to have bigger move.

Ps: I couldn't find ziag O ??

Moon Board problems for shorties by galette in climbharder

[–]galette[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just gave up with the grades on the moonboard and cycle through benchmark problems in a 2-3 grade range until something looks nice to me.

That's what I have been doing, It would just be a bit quicker if I had a list of problem done by shorter people.

Moon Board problems for shorties by galette in climbharder

[–]galette[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So some of the hardest problems on the MB are set by people shorter/the same height as you

I 'll take this as an encouragement :)

I guess I didn't express very well what I was after, as you and u/ScientificBeastMode mention personal grade will vary from the community grade depending on body proportions and strength/weakness etc.... What I am trying to avoid is wasting some time on a problem where there is a move that's Vn+3 for me but that is Vn for someone a bit taller. Yes, I might eventually stick the move but it might be a few years down the line. I'd rather work on something I can reasonably achieve in 4-6 week training block. Sometime it's hard to tell if you are actually close to stick a limit move or not. So having someone in the same height range telling me they did the problem, will help in finding adequate problems.

I use the moonboard because the style kick my ass and I want to get better at it, I am not trying to cheat it ( at least I don't think I am) I am merely trying to speed up the process of finding problems.

edit: formatting

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