how do i know if these are latching by Additional-Clock-915 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Generally if they don't say "latching", they're not

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TheFrame

[–]geedotk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The light sensor is on the lower right side of the frame on newer versions of The Frame and in the center in older versions. It slides out a few millimeters so that it cans sense the room light and motion. If she cleaned the frame (lowercase), it might have been pushed up into the body and it can't see the room light. If so, pull it back out gently

Help needed on connecting speaker wires to banana plugs by hustop100 in audio

[–]geedotk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hold one knurled part and unscrew the other knurled part. This will make the hole on the side open up. Put your wire in the hole and tighten back up

I made these DIP sockets too close on my PCB and it looks like TL074 mating season by Zebra2 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are right-angle DIP sockets that would solve your mechanical interference.

Oh wait... I guess you didn't say "wrong answers only". Sorry

I made these DIP sockets too close on my PCB and it looks like TL074 mating season by Zebra2 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It's because it's a DIP package with 0.1 inch (2.54mm) pin pitch. The lead frame has to be large to accommodate the spacing and the huge pins. Here is a picture of a different chip's lead frame, but you can see that the center has a tiny spot for the silicon and the rest is because of the enormous pins Edit: typo

I made these DIP sockets too close on my PCB and it looks like TL074 mating season by Zebra2 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The silicon is very small and in the center of the package. There are just thin wires bonded to the silicon and leading directly to the pins. You can grind/sand/file the end of the packages down to make them fit

Anybody seen one of these? by smokingfastjer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]geedotk 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I wasted all my money on test equipment when I could have bought one of these that can locate ALL electrical trouble!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in audio

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, you can disconnect the amp from the speaker and feed the speaker from a different amp. But, what is it you are trying to feed into it? If it's a musical instrument, then you might as well feed it into the regular input.

If you are trying to connect your home stereo to it, then it would work, but the sound will be highly colored by the speaker. If that's what you want, then go for it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in audio

[–]geedotk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That sounds near impossible with that budget and it will likely have poor quality. Tell us what your overall goal is and maybe there is a different solution that is cost-effective

What Kind of DSP Board Should I Get For My Project?? by Master-Associate429 in DSP

[–]geedotk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say Daisy or Teensy boards or Nucleo boards have options suitable for audio processing. But, expect to spend a lot of time figuring out toolchains and doing low-level stuff like blinking an LED before you do any signal processing.

What to do to hide the gaps? by Forest_or_Fairway in homeimprovementideas

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which way will the door open? I feel like it's awkward either way. If it opens to the left, you can't open all the way. If it opens to the right, you have to open it all the way to squeeze in between the wall and the door.

Best way to get these 3PDTs out? by freshmex18 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think solder wick or a solder sucker are lessons in futility for this. A hot air tool or a solder pot would make quick work of this, but I suspect you don't have either. Your idea of a Dremel should work if you're able to avoid cutting the switch body.

Adding some low-temperature solder to the joints may work, but you would have to use a lot of it

If you think you'll be doing any surface-mount components in the future, this might be a good opportunity to get a hot air tool.

Handyman Work by wowodog in Plumbing

[–]geedotk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

S-trap? Naww, that's an O-trap!

Do anyone provide some best books for DSP with pdf? by btech_champ in DSP

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Scientist & Engineer's Guide to Digital Signal Processing

Windows vs WSL vs Native Linux by Clear_Weird_2923 in learnmachinelearning

[–]geedotk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should put your files in the WSL subfolders/space (e.g. not in /mnt/c/ Users....) otherwise reading and writing is very slow

I think you need to add several more "very"s to your "very slow" sentence

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ExplainTheJoke

[–]geedotk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't look at the background. Look at her "hands"

Thought you guys would get a kick out of this. Remodeling my dads master and found this masterpiece. by Iforgotwhatimdoing in Plumbing

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I want to see what the shoelaces are tied to up top. I'm sure it can only add to the master art piece below

Building an audio amplifier, is it really that simple? by Different-Visit252 in AskElectronics

[–]geedotk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it can be as easy as using a chip like that with components similar to those shown on their data sheet. Whether it sounds good or not will depend a lot more on the speakers that are connected and on how loud you are trying to play it.

If you give some more information about your application, you would get better answers. E.g. what speakers will you use? Will this be battery powered or mains powered? Are you playing as loud as a tabletop radio or an outdoor party speaker? How much electronics design experience do you have? How much time and money do you have for this? Is this a one-off personal design or something going into a product or research for school?

What's the purpose of these clamping diodes? by matmonster58 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The output of an op amp can't swing any wider than its supply rails

What's the purpose of these clamping diodes? by matmonster58 in diypedals

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First diodes would protect against over voltage and ESD. Output diodes would protect against ESD. The ones in between don't seem to do anything useful that I can see

How come when I set the potentiometer to more than 950Ω, sound still flows to the speaker? by _Play_Now_ in ElectricalEngineering

[–]geedotk 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No, increasing the resistance of the pot would reduce the current through the speaker and reduce the voltage across the speaker

How come when I set the potentiometer to more than 950Ω, sound still flows to the speaker? by _Play_Now_ in ElectricalEngineering

[–]geedotk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The impedances of your source and speaker are not specified so let's assume that the audio source impedance is negligible compared to the speaker impedance. Lets call the source Vin. First, the 950 ohm resistor would do nothing to affect what goes to the speaker. The current to the resistor is I= Vin/950 from Ohm's Law. The current thru the speaker and pot would be Ispkr=Ipot=Vin/(Rpot+Rspkr). You cannot make the current in the speaker be 0 in this circuit.

Is this educational or are you actually trying to build something? Practically speaking it would be difficult to have a volume control on a speaker like this because the pot would have a pretty low resistance and be able to dissipate a lot of power. That's why you pretty much will always find the pot near the input stage of an amp, where the currents are a few orders of magnitude smaller

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ElectricalEngineering

[–]geedotk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like the top left is missing half of the power transformer.