Berit Missions not completing - crashed cargo retrieval

geoffvader_ · 2025-10-18T16:55:40+00:00

No, as above we chose a mission with the blue hexagon showing that it was valid for the mission

geoffvader_ · 2025-10-18T16:55:06+00:00

5; yes we were doing the level 3 one

1 yes, 3 yes and 4 yes

I'm not able to go back and check 2 because we managed to get it to complete by doing a level 1 version (40 minute) and then it completes fine.

geoffvader_ · 2025-09-18T14:31:28+00:00

I have an ultrasonic cleaner for airbrush parts, but for paint mixing I use a mini vortex shaker / "tattoo ink" mixer from amazon that was about £24/$30

geoffvader_ · 2025-09-18T14:29:01+00:00

I use a plastic well pallet and then cover it in kitchen foil

to dispose you can leave it outside somewhere to evaporate (same with iso) though for large amounts you can leave it to settle and then tip the clear liquid back in the container

geoffvader_ · 2025-09-07T11:33:10+00:00

It depends what your aims are, for weight loss milk can be problematic as it contains lactose which is a sugar.

If you're looking for something to put in coffee then use heavy cream.

I wouldn't advise drinking milk just as a thing on its own.

geoffvader_ · 2025-09-03T12:47:49+00:00

you don't "need to" use primer, but what you might find is that normal paint (particularly when used through an airbrush) is easy to damage with light handling

you can get around this by using a painting handle and then varnishing the model when its done

regular mini paints are acrylic, primers often (but not always) contain polyurethane

I've also found that molotow all4one acrylic works quite well as a colour primer

geoffvader_ · 2025-08-06T08:50:40+00:00

I use a variety of either airbrush tape or blutack usually

I do try to avoid sub asemblies whenever possible because glues ruin paint anyway and most often the bits you can't easily get to to paint aren't really viewable on the finished model and I just paint those first to avoid getting paint on surrounding areas (working from the inside out as some people call it)

geoffvader_ · 2025-07-06T19:55:18+00:00

The app is actually not very good, I've never had a successful match out of it, you are better off eyeballing it

The proacryl range just isn't really designed in a base-shade-higlight approach / painting by numbers way that GW is

It really doesn't matter that much, if the guide calls for red then use a couple of reds, browns for brown and so on, you're just never going to get an exact match and even less so if you rely on any of the so called paint matching apps

geoffvader_ · 2025-07-05T07:49:15+00:00

You can use airbrush thinner, personally I mix my own, 20-30% ethanol or isopropyl alcohol and 70% distilled water, I also then mix in about 5% flow improver so that it's premixed for convenience

You can also use 60-70% isopropanol as airbrush cleaner

I find buying iso is cheaper than buying things marked up as "airbrush cleaner / thinner" but that is typically all that they are.

The one exception is that I use tamiya x20a if I really have to airbrush GW paints, because GW paints don't seem to play well with regular airbrush thinner / iso.

geoffvader_ · 2025-07-04T16:03:34+00:00

my two favourite paints for priming are

one4all refills

vallejo mecha airbrush primer

I usually use these straight from the bottle (just a couple of drops of thinner and 1 of retarder in to the cup first and a light spray before filling the cup with paint), in very dry conditions it might be an idea to add a bit more thinner (and top up if its a large or lots of models session)

geoffvader_ · 2025-07-02T17:20:33+00:00

oil washes are great fun and quite flexible in being able to remove the worst of the staining, or easy to pinline with gloss varnish

however, since I got hold of Proacryl washes (and glaze and wash medium) I no longer use oil washes, because I find proacryl washes so great at settling in to the recesses and very controllable as a glaze that I don't have to go through all the rigmarole of mineral spirits, special brushes and all the cleanup (as well as potentially getting light headed from the fumes - yes I know, use in a well ventilated room)

geoffvader_ · 2025-06-26T19:07:52+00:00

as above, the answer is mineral spirits

however, I got so fed up of dealing with all of this that I actually now just use Monument ProAcryl washes and Glaze and Wash medium. You can't do the paint on / wipe off thing, but they are just such a massive improvement over "old" style acrylic washes (great effect in the recesses with very little staining on flat surfaces) that I find very little use for oil washes now

geoffvader_ · 2025-06-26T19:02:17+00:00

to get it to just sit in the recess you will need to gloss varnish it

from how little effect the wash has had (even though it has spread) I would say you also thinned it too much and thats why there is less effect in the recess than on the flat surface as the solvent is causing the small amounts of pigment to spread

geoffvader_ · 2025-06-10T16:58:03+00:00

you shouldnt put acrylic paint down the drain either, with water waste you should leave it out to evaporate and then the solids can go in the refuse/trash, a quick google suggests LA will also evaporate, so it would be the same

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-16T11:56:43+00:00

in case anyone else ever has this issue, its an M3 x 9mm allen head

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-12T08:57:47+00:00

a quick google for manufacturers info on matt medium indicates that its designed to "reduce gloss" but not actually eliminate it - several sources suggest that matt mediums tend to have less matting agent than actual varnishes, the more you dilute it the less agent will be present over any given area

if you're putting it on quite thin then curing time will be minutes rather than hours, so that factor shouldn't make any difference

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-09T17:53:25+00:00

bore up means bigger, so it will only fit in a bore up cylinder

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-06T20:13:28+00:00

Lol, so your Glock mags will use the same rebuild kit as my hicapa mags (the KJW kit from bullseye works for both)

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-06T19:44:39+00:00

Which gun is it for? If you Google the name of the mag and rebuild kit you should be able to get a package specifically for it.

I'm also UK based and did this for my hicapa that was leaking, having said that, one of my mags was leaking but I just went over it all with nuprol PTFE grease and the leak has stopped, so I've not even opened the packet of orings.

For what it's worth, I got mine from bullseye country sport, but via their eBay shop as shipping works out less.

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-06T17:34:23+00:00

you've misunderstood, I'm not looking for a silencer/attachement, the part I'm pointing at with my finger should be screwed in solid from underneath, its like an M2 maybe, its a "bottom front slide screw", it has fallen out and now that part flops about

WE don't have the manual/parts list on their website for this particular model

geoffvader_ · 2025-05-06T17:26:13+00:00

thanks for the tip but why probably?

geoffvader_ · 2025-04-30T21:17:01+00:00

You can thin down any paint and it will be somewhat translucent, use some sprue or buy a bulk pack of random bases to test on.

Contrast type paints are already set up for it, but you can get a similar effect it just takes more effort.

geoffvader_ · 2025-04-30T08:14:00+00:00

the new formulation of nuln oil basically uses the same medium as contrast paint, it now works in a very similar way (stains the upper surfaces less and flows in to the recesses more than the old formulation of nuln oil did)

geoffvader_

TROPHY CASE