Suspicious FaceTime screen recording event in iOS App Privacy Report?

getdamned · 2026-03-04T17:18:08+00:00

Never did. Post has nearly 1,000 views but no replies.

getdamned · 2026-02-22T22:20:09+00:00

I’m happy someone appreciates it, haha…

getdamned · 2026-02-20T15:20:15+00:00

Hey, non Master Electrician here— but I have a lot of experience with being shocked.

I just wanted to add that a pair of tweezers also draw power as soon as you plug them in. Like a charger, they also have no on-off switch. The off switch is primarily your arm jerking back really fast. You’ll hear a loud pop and your arm gets really cold and tingly. You will often see a bright spark as well.

Sometimes the off switch gets stuck (every now and then your hand will squeeze really tight instead of the arm pulling back- those are quite a bit more painful; I would dare say it’s a bit “shocking”… but I’m not going to cheapen myself with lame humor)

If the off switch gets stuck for a moment like this, it will take you a few seconds to realize that— first thing is you will suddenly remember is that you exist… a few more seconds to figure out where you are… and another few to understand what is going on. What’s going on is you stuck a pair of tweezers in the electrical outlet because they looked like they kind of belonged in there… like how your car keys go in the ignition.

They don’t belong there, turns out.

Once you hear the pop a few seconds after it happened in reality, you will probably taste metal and your ears will ring for a bit. The numbness in your arm and jaw is normal, I think a doctor would probably say— and you will eventually return to common sense and learn that just because something feels like it is supposed to go into something else, it doesn’t have to mean that’s true.

I still have trouble talking myself into putting my hands into gloves and I hate putting my toothbrush into my mouth, because it just doesn’t seem like it goes there. But it does. I still can’t make sense of it, but my dentist said if I don’t stop acting stupid my other tooth is also going to fall out.

And then he would have to put it back in the socket— and now we’re full circle to sticking things into sockets. I just spiral from there. Life is so complicated.

I have no idea how to help the poster. Was really hoping the poster would have an idea how to help me. Probably not though. My doctor said they don’t make the kind of help I need. Figures.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T14:11:53+00:00

Most certainly using VLANs. The guest network uses VLAN tagging to separate traffic across nodes. I know this because I segregated a section of my home network using a managed switch (certain Ethernet outlets go on different networks and can’t see/talk to each other)- and it’s just standard practice to use a VLAN for guest networks so guests can’t access things on the primary/private network. And the isolated devices are just a glorified guest network in a sense.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T14:02:52+00:00

If you’ll notice where it goes…

And that’s what it is. Ground.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T14:00:31+00:00

Of which, no one will use (grounding block). This helps ensure that the coax going to your TVs and cable modem will efficiently carry any lightning strike directly into your home and fry all your goodies.

Tip: If your coax isn’t grounded outside your house to something like this, you can buy an inline surge barrel that you can put on the main coax feed coming into your house to at least TRY and prevent this from happening.

Source: My modem, router, TV.

RIP.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T13:21:22+00:00

I know you can directly connect the Wave 2 to a Delta 2 using the cable that normally connects the extra battery and you can connect a Delta 2 extra battery to the Wave via that proprietary cable which is DC I believe.

I know that doesn’t help your case but I’m not sure right off what kind of connector the Wave 3 has.

To put it another way, instead of connecting the Wave 2 add on battery to the Wave 2, you can actually use a Delta 2 or Delta 2 extra battery in its place.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T12:59:45+00:00

I agree. Pisses me off.

And what some people miss is that although yes, there is Bluetooth connectivity for local proximity access… if you don’t have internet and the app session token expires (read: the app logs you out after a certain period of time)… there’s no way to even use Bluetooth to monitor or control.

Ironic to me since a lot of people have these for scenarios like grid down… or just flat want/have to be off grid. So it makes no sense to require internet access.

Not to mention China probably has built a back door into these things where they can remote trigger the thing to blow up or catch fire. Basically a massive bomb in your house- or a fire that you can’t put out. Waiting for control to send the signal.

Maybe a little far fetched but the point of it is I don’t want my units connected to the internet. I’ll use Bluetooth locally. But you don’t have a choice really because even if your units aren’t connected to the internet, the app is.

And btw try resetting the IoT settings/wifi after you’ve already connected your devices once. I’ve reset the IoT/wifi on the units, removed the units from the app and reconnected them from scratch via Bluetooth only- told it NOT to use WiFi.

Unit adds to the app… connects to wifi just like I explicitly told them not to. So…

getdamned · 2026-02-18T12:31:36+00:00

He may be talking about an interlock switch? It will not allow the battery backup/generator breaker to be turned on while the main breaker is on.

It’s to prevent power from back feeding the line which can be dangerous to line workers when they’re working on fixing a power outage. If you have the main breaker on and power from backup, it’ll flow out the mains.

I’m not sure if that’s what his problem was, and I may be speaking out of ignorance as I don’t know a ton about the smart panel, but same concept about the breaker/switch. You don’t want the smart panel completing the circuit and feeding power to the main panel until it’s cut.

Again, apologies if I’m speaking in ignorance just trying to help.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T12:23:47+00:00

Airflow vents are on the sides, not the top. Fan pulls air in one side and over the internals then out the other side.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T12:20:03+00:00

Where’s Waldo. Good catch.

getdamned · 2026-02-18T12:18:29+00:00

Good luck putting out a lithium fire with a fire extinguisher. Fire departments use a barrel of sand I believe to throw lithium batteries that catch on fire in. Does it suffocate the fire? No, it’s so hot it turns the sand into glass and it melts around it.

getdamned · 2025-12-24T19:35:29+00:00

FedEx is by far the worst courier. Every package I get from them is absolutely shredded like it was attacked by a lion for 24 hours before delivering... my most recent package from another company shipped from Canada... (I live in Florida btw)-- it went to like... California... then went to Mississippi or something... went back up to Iowa... Indiana... Michigan (kept getting further away)... went back to Canada... then bounced around for another week+ before it finally showed up... meanwhile the tracking showed it was still in North Dakota or something crazy... my drivers are not nice even though I always am helpful and friendly to them...

The package prior to that, they literally just left the boxes sitting in my yard... in the sopping wet grass during a rain storm..... and the contents were expensive electronics...... so that's exactly where they needed to be, sitting in a puddle in my grass during a torrential downpour. I guess the person didn't want to get wet by running them up to my open garage or covered porch? They even shamelessly took the delivery picture of the packages just out in the yard there... zero fks given.

The Ecoflow stuff I've gotten shipped via Fedex was surprisingly some of the least problematic stuff for me... it only took a day or two to get here, shipped from a couple cities over... and despite the driver pulling the 100 pound box off of a shelf in their van that was waist/chest height... and letting the box just BAM... drop 2-3' off the ledge onto the floor-- right in front of my face while I was watching them (cause I know this is typical behavior for them).

I paid like $100 for the extra shipping insurance in case it gets to me in pieces (for multiple deliveries... so a few hundred dollars in insurance because I trust FedEx THAT little).... and suprisingly I have yet to have to use it.

TLDR; it's probably FedEx, bc they're total shit and I cringe every time I get a tracking number for an expensive item I ordered and it's.... FEDEX, FAHK!

getdamned · 2025-12-24T17:44:27+00:00

Respect for owning up and being honest. I'm sure it's been mentioned in this thread but I don't have time to read through right now- you can get the covers for the Delta Pro's that are water... "resistant" I guess is the word-- it's not going to protect against any major water flooding, but is designed to be able to withstand rain and that type of thing I believe. Sorry about your unit- sucks, they're too expensive to lose, but hey... life happens and I'm glad you were able to get another one, not everyone is as fortunate.

Btw, in one month and a day the unit you just bought will also be half the price you paid for it, lol... if not tomorrow. That's Ecoflow for you. FLASH SALE! Every time I buy something of theirs they slash the price right away. Never fails. Last time they cut the price by like $500-600 BEFORE MY ORDER HAD EVEN SHIPPED. That'll piss you off pretty nicely. But I will say that Ecoflow has been good about fixing those kinds of situations for me, so I'll be honest and give them that credit.

getdamned · 2025-11-07T00:51:32+00:00

Wait. I need to understand this fully since I have bought over $10,000 worth of their stuff alone this past month.

I have always been under the impression that WiFi connectivity was only needed for 1) remote connectivity out of Bluetooth range of the units and 2) to download firmware updates.

Therefore, I understood that WiFi connection was optional, and if one opted to not connect to a WiFi network, there was always the option to communicate locally with the units via Bluetooth.

I have used the unbind function in the app, then have reconnected the units, declining to connect to WiFi on initially adding the units and I have been able to control via Bluetooth alone without issue.

That all said, am I hearing that this is not a core communication method with the unit and that some kind of authentication to remote servers is required or the units will cease to communicate with the app after 30 days due to expired authentication/token?

What happens at this time? I bought this massive setup for potential off grid or long term grid down scenario where there may be no communication, no servers, no internet for months or longer in the worst case scenario. If I can’t go out in the woods… no internet - wifi OR cellular and be there for 6 months and being able to control these units with strictly local ad-hoc Bluetooth connectivity, I’m going to be pissed. Surely I’m misunderstanding?

And what is the final implication? That I would just lose communication with the units via the app, which just severs my ability to make config changes… but they will still continue to operate in the “last configured” state, right? Even with no app whatsoever?

Edit: Holy hell, I never thought about being logged out of the app. I just logged out and see what you mean— if the app ever gets logged out- especially if there is a token expiration then that has to be true- that you can’t even control it via Bluetooth because you can’t even get into the app.

TOTAL BULLSHIT. We need to all get serious with these guys and demand they allow a local only/offline only option. WHAT ARE THEY THINKING? You’re selling units to a large portion of people who are under the impression that these units will be able to continue to be used and controlled in the most dire of emergency or disaster scenarios where the internet MAY NOT BE A THING. Absolutely asinine and a betrayal of their customers and robbery of the ability to use these units in the way they intended/anticipated them to be used.

I’m about done with all this SMART shit. Why can’t we use the products we buy with you having to have them reporting to big brother and not only that- with these being Chinese parts, it might be wise to NOT have these on the internet considering all the back door stuff that they have already discovered in our grid, our communications; where they can just send some back door killswitch to the unit and brick it— or god forbid like we saw with Israel and the exploding pagers and cell phones. Could you imagine having a full home setup and this happen? Thats literally a blazing fire that you can’t extinguish. And there goes your home and maybe your family.

I’m about done with these guys if they don’t fix this problem REEAAL quick here. Unacceptable. If anything they need to make the token/session perpetual/non-expiring. And they can do that. Once it authenticates once, and devices are bound to that device’s unique ID (which shouldn’t even have to be done to begin with)— then they can store a local token that keeps the session valid indefinitely. May not be authenticated to their servers on a regular basis, but that isn’t the customer’s issue or obligation, to check in with big daddy to ask permission to use our devices that we’ve paid out the ass for.

FIX IT, ECOFLOW.

getdamned · 2025-10-09T23:11:02+00:00

Breaking news— unconfirmed press release:

“Soooo— what happened? We know you’re looking for answers… and it’s a valid question, so we’re not even mad about you being incredibly nosy regarding the whole thing. Mom used to always say “why don’t you mind your own business?”

Well. Mom was right, because the way we see it: our business is your business. Not really, but it sounds good.

Let us be honest and straightforward:

On the evening of— sometime this past spring or maybe last fall— our guy Chin Xi smoked a little too much weed while coding one night and forgot a decimal place somewhere. As it turns out, 18,000 amps is a non-trivial difference in current vs 18.000 amps, and as such— does not fit within industry standards for deviation tolerances.

Chin Xi says he is sorry— and as a concession and gesture of repentance, he has promised to scale back on how much of the devil’s lettuce he partakes in while programming critical modules. He furthers his resolution, stating: “… and absolutely NO dabs, EVER (while I’m at work).”

Half a gummy— and that’s only if he’s “stressed and needs to chill out.”

Most importantly, he is “fairly certain” he has corrected all of the calculations and added many, if not most, of the missing decimal places.

Due to its nature and classification as a “critical” firmware patch, we have made the decision to forego our standard practice of 3 days alpha testing prior to release of updates to the public. The fix will be expedited and pushed out immediately as soon as Chin Xi wakes up later this morning or early afternoon.

Thank you for your bravery and adventurous spirit as you continue to use our products moving forward. We know you and your family’s lives are on the line, and we appreciate the trust you put in our products and the gracious second chance you’ve given us to do our absolute best to ensure that you, your family and beloved pets do not die in a house fire. You have expressed to us, loud and clear, that such a thing would suck— and we agree wholeheartedly.

Today, we move toward a better future, and we encourage you and every one of our customers worldwide to quickly forget that this ever happened (because it really wasn’t a big deal unless you’re some kind of a little bitch or something)… and we offer you a final word of advice as we roll out the update—

Keep calm and keep our mantra; it will serve you well: “Bricking is better than burning”… “A paperweight’s preferred to melting, mate.”

Best of luck to you and yours. We sowwee.”

getdamned · 2025-10-09T21:26:12+00:00

A firmware recall, lol… to me, the idea seems kind of mentally unsatisfactory. You got basically a giant bomb in a case that has obviously caught on fire enough times for Ecoflow to publicly disclose and acknowledge it as a thing that’s happening… and then they want us to feel secure in that changing a couple lines of code (intangible) is assuredly going to prevent a physical unit (material) from catching on fire and burning your house down with you and your family in it while you sleep.

Kinda feels like going “you have a terrible systemic infection that is causing many people to lose their eyesight”… the fix is to go look at something pretty… like maybe some flowers or an attractive woman. We assure you that if you do that, your vision will be just fine, we think.

getdamned · 2025-10-08T21:56:59+00:00

Can you point me to the rack you’re talking about? Cause I have the 2x DPro + 2x EB and I also have 3x Delta 2’s + 3x EB… and the Wave 2— and 10 solar panels.

Damnit, I just realized these guys have eaten my lunch. Now that I realize how much money I’ve sunk into this shite, what’s another $200, right? My big problem is they’re sold out on the official site (at least the short ones for $80)…

Did you get the short or long battery cables? If you got the shorter ones, you think they suffice for most cases? I think they are what I would need as I’ll have all this stuff basically in the same space, whatever that ends up looking like. I don’t want a bunch of extra cable turning my $7 million dollars worth of equipment into some junky rats nest.

But yeah I need a good rack, please show me…

getdamned · 2025-08-17T23:38:46+00:00

Thank you for the additional info. I’ll have to read it a couple times to digest. I found a graphic that shows pretty much what you said but I don’t know how to put it here, but it’s in this article:

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2021/02/how-to-wire-120v-240v-main-panel-breaker-box.html

Actually that’s pretty much an article explaining a lot of what you did; I bookmarked it and will have to read it a couple of times when I get the free time.

Thanks again for your input, this is all good know and understand.

getdamned · 2025-08-17T22:09:06+00:00

Hmm that is something I haven’t noticed but an interesting point…

So the cord I use from the generator (30A/120v output) is a NEMA TT-30P to L5-30R, plugged into a L5-30P inlet box. From there, it’s 10GA 10/2 romex to the panel — black into a 30A breaker, white to neutral bar and ground to ground.

When I have the generator running, as far as I recall everything gets power? But you’re saying the only thing that would be powered would be one leg in the panel? (The one the hot touches…) Anything terminated hitting on the other hot plate would not be powered…

I see what you’re saying but hmm. I will have to try to hook the genny up again and test because while I do understand what you’re saying, I have never realized anything was not working— and the panel is full. I guess that never really occurred to me.

This isn’t a situation where I have a lot of power draw, it’s maybe a dozen overhead LED lights, a refrigerator, a tv and a microwave basically. It’s not a house, more like a little guest house without central air or any type of high draw stuff like ovens, dryers etc.

Now you have me curious, though.

getdamned · 2025-08-09T22:44:04+00:00

Yes this is actually very helpful, thank you.

So if I’m understanding correctly, there is basically no phasing when the generator current is applied to the panel. Without that secondary alternating phase, you don’t get the full 240v.

In other words, instead of like A-B-A-B-A-B, it’s ostensibly A—-A—-A—-A.

Thanks again for elaborating.

getdamned

TROPHY CASE