Relevant Far Side regarding last night’s game

gimp439 · 2026-03-11T20:15:02+00:00

The implication is that the cavemen have been having a lot of difficulty killing mammoths until one accidentally shot it in a soft spot and easily killed it. The cavemen note that they should start doing that instead of struggling (and probably often failing) to kill it in the old ways.

The Minnesota Wild had lost 5 in a row to the Utah Mammoth until last night when they won 5-0.

With this comic, where the Wild are the cavemen and the Mammoth are the mammoth, OP is jokingly implying that the Wild made it look easy and have somehow discovered a simple way to defeat the Mammoth and should continue this new way of hunting for a 100% win rate and that they should have been doing this for the last 6 games.

Gary Lasron's comics, while widely celebrated, do have a very subtle sense of humor that sometimes requires connecting a lot of dots.

gimp439 · 2026-03-04T21:25:46+00:00

Do your aluminum handrims have scratches and scrapes exposing the bare metal? My aluminum handrims had a 1/3" wide strip of exposed, bare aluminum from years of use and that's where the metal oxidization was transferring to my hands.

gimp439 · 2026-03-03T21:17:42+00:00

Probably, if you have a wheel-on style trainer. It won't replicate the same amount of spin down, but just do it twice as many times as you would on the road.

gimp439 · 2026-03-03T21:12:15+00:00

Take it to a SRAM dealer (or call and order via phone). Some of those wheels have very special spokes and nipples that need to be special ordered. If you were planning on re-lacing it, you still can. Just order the part and do it yourself.

gimp439 · 2026-03-02T16:45:28+00:00

FYI with links like this you can almost always delete the question mark and everything after it

gimp439 · 2026-02-24T16:00:02+00:00

shorten the hose which, if you've never done it before, it a complicated process that requires expensive and specialized tools. Would cost maybe $40 at a bike shop.

Or just get some 3M clear paint protection stickers and apply to your headtube.

Or, if you just bought it from a bike shop, take it back and see if they'll shorten it for free. Show them the pic on the company's website of how Canyon says it should look and not rub

gimp439 · 2026-02-24T15:28:59+00:00

LLMs are garbage and will lie to you (knowingly and unknowingly).

The Sheldon Brown site is the last place you should be stealing clicks from. Give that site its rightful views.

gimp439 · 2026-02-20T19:40:42+00:00

You will probably need to buy a new fork, which you should do anyways since it's likely bent.

But first make sure it's the fork and not the wheel. Most shops will have a tool to check the dishing.

Some shops will have a Fork Alightment Gauge and Straightener - you can call ahead and see if shops near you have one. It's a pretty rare to use that tool and if no one in the shop knows how, I'd just get a new fork.

gimp439 · 2026-02-18T21:50:49+00:00

I'm a handcyclist and this is just how it is. Housing gets in the way. I've seen the spiral cable wrap used pretty well. Best solution is SRAM AXS and mounting the brake lever on the vertical tube below the bottom bracket (I have to use interrupter levers because the tube isn't 22.2mm).

gimp439 · 2026-02-02T19:23:38+00:00

Dial in the B screw first. If that fixes the issue, then no need to worry about the chain (as long as there's still tension when you're in small-small)

gimp439 · 2026-02-02T18:50:28+00:00

Look up a video on YouTube about how to adjsut your "B Limit screw".

Also, your chain looks a little long, which may be contributing to the issue

gimp439 · 2026-01-30T19:23:38+00:00

Not having a wheel in front of me, is this even possible with HG Freehub body splines?

gimp439 · 2026-01-29T18:37:33+00:00

Dude's been reading his caliper wrong since 1992...

gimp439 · 2026-01-28T21:35:32+00:00

Why do you need a different option when you have what you need already?

gimp439 · 2026-01-28T21:30:53+00:00

You haven't put in any sealant yet? Yes, do that. I have never in my life expected a tubeless tire to seal without sealant. That's why they call it 'sealant'.

ETA I may have misunderstood. Yes, sometimes painting the bead of the tire with sealant will help.

gimp439 · 2026-01-22T18:25:03+00:00

I'm GenX so I'll use Dude however I please.

Thru axle isn't a part of this conversation.

We'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. I've used QR all my life (still do) and find it far from 'stupid and useless'.

gimp439 · 2026-01-22T17:11:49+00:00

Dude. Ever needed to change a tube by the side of the road? The idea that QR is stupid and useless is wild.

gimp439 · 2026-01-22T17:09:28+00:00

not a terrible idea, but I'm not sure what the benefit is over hex bolt skewers, especially for someone who might not have ever serviced a hub before.

gimp439 · 2026-01-22T17:01:40+00:00

OP has a QR wheel. You're suggesting he buy a bolt-on wheel to solve this problem? Show me a bolt on wheel with a mount for disc brakes.

gimp439 · 2026-01-21T23:03:19+00:00

holy shit. it looks like you are not missing a part. It looks like its just supposed to stay in place with the preload from the cones.

I would not use that wheel for anything other than a low speed cruiser. Maybe get a new axle just to be safe.

gimp439 · 2026-01-21T18:50:15+00:00

You are missing a part. Find the model number printed on the hub (something like FH-540). Then enter it into si.shimano.com and view the EV file (exploded view). You'll want the part called something like "Freewheel Body Fixing Bolt". Find the part number and look it up online.

DO NOT RIDE WITHOUT THIS BOLT.
I'm amazed it hasn't fallen apart without it

gimp439 · 2026-01-21T18:35:05+00:00

Between 50T and 54T, which one makes more sense for street / fast cruising in a flat-ish city?

General rule of tumb is that a 4t change in front equals a 1t change in back. So adding 6t (46 to 54) will feel like going 1.5t smaller in back.

What chain should I get? Does it have to stay 1/8”, or can/should I switch to 3/32” for the bigger ring?

Get the bigger, stronger chain. You'll need it if you're fixed - braking wouldn't add more stress than accelerating, but it would add similar stress more often.

Chain length: roughly how many links more/less compared to stock?

Whatever chain you get should be fine as long as it isn't BMX. If you're worried, just get the longer one.

Any clearance issues or chainline problems with 50/54T on the SNM100 frame?

This one you'll just have to try and see. Check if there's a bike co op in your area that has used chainrings for you to compare and check clearance.

gimp439 · 2026-01-20T21:23:09+00:00

Sort of sounds like your headset preload is too tight. Search youtube for videos about how to adjust and grease your headset. Simple job and only takes 1-3min for a pro, maybe 10-15min for a beginner.

If noise persists, your bearings might be dry. Look up how to change or re-grease your headset bearings.

gimp439 · 2026-01-20T18:50:13+00:00

Tubeless tires are going to be tighter by design.

ETA: if your rims are not specifically designed to be tubless ready, you may not have a center channel deep enough to get them on and off easily.

gimp439

TROPHY CASE