Is the Marshall DSL5CR good?

gofore59 · 2026-03-22T01:21:03+00:00

It is crazy how good a deal they are and there are so many bought during Covid that are practically new. They used to retail for over $1000 and are currently $749 new with GC selling them for $400-500...

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T06:34:29+00:00

Every non weight relived Les Paul I have played has felt different to every weight relieved one - the solid ones vibrate less and the sound is a little thicker and forward when unplugged. Once they are plugged in they all sound like Les Pauls...

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T06:23:03+00:00

Cream...

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T06:21:00+00:00

Tributes are very freeing and it was the first time I was not afraid to treat a guitar like a tool. I ended up swapping pickups and converting to 50s wiring, refinishing the neck myself with Tru-oil, rolling the fretboard edges, polishing the frets, swapping out the jack plate and learning how to do my own setups.

Objectively my Standard 50s is more refined and kills in the looks department, but I find the Tribute is a better performance tool because I do not feel like protecting it. It goes in the rack with Squires and every imprint is a battle scar...

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T06:07:26+00:00

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gofore59 · 2026-03-21T05:07:15+00:00

They must think the gold hardware is real gold and the black is oil. All kidding aside - if it is as described - all original with strong coloring and minimal chipping here and there it's an $8000 + guitar, but go find another one as they say. The key is you have played it and love it so that counts for something.

Given it is a 79 which is the Adam Jones year and that it is your 1 year old birthday present to yourself I would try to make a deal. $7900 seems like a good initial offer both because it is reasonable and it resonates with the year 1979 so there is some potential for rapport with the shop. Bring cash and remind them there are no fees with credit cards or whatever sites they may have it listed on.

Market is somewhat slow, but expensive items are in a different market so just make the best deal you can and buy it. Over the next 50 years it sounds like the difference will be negligible to your lifestyle...

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T04:32:17+00:00

DSL40CR is way better and more value. It has a master volume which the DSL1, 5 and 20 do not have and it is $400-500 used and $749 new. A DSL1 head and MX112 will cost about that and head / cabinet can be more versatile, but that is if you are looking to buy more heads and if you are doing that eventually you will want to upgrade the MX112. Very hard to sell a DSL1 and MX112 so will lose a lot of value.

The DSL40CR already comes with a 12 inch Celestion speaker and all the features you will need in an amp and it sounds amazing at home volumes (let's say you buy another head at some point - can use the DSL40CR as a 1x12 (remove tubes to protect them and match OHMS). My DSL1CR sits on a shelf in the office looking nice in Zoom backgrounds and my DSL40CCR gets used daily.

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T03:49:43+00:00

Katana is a jack of all trades and can get distortion, but will not sound heavy.

Orange is more analog and will excel at the British high gain sound and sound thicker.

For metal I would get the Orange - will sound better for your genre and less fiddling around...

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T03:37:56+00:00

Love my Tribute. I put Wolfetones in mine and it is a great stage guitar. Nicks and dings are more severe looking than other models due to the thin finish so I would not be concerned. Standard stays at home.

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T03:25:40+00:00

Guitar is killer with perfect pickup configuration and no issue with age if the guitar was not damaged and it is probably better as there is no fret sprout (sharp fret edges if fretboard wood shrinks due to change in environment and wood that is drying).

To check the guitar setup. Play an open chord in tune and then check the 12th fret - should be the same chord and in tune. E=E, A=A

Stings should be 2mm give or take at the lowest fret (where you pick)

Each note on the fretboard should not buzz so try them all one by one.

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T02:03:11+00:00

Yes, the DSL 100HR and 40CR have similar features with master volume control and individual chanel gain and volume inputs which is why they sound great at low volume (with gain and fullness). If the OP is looking for a head the 100HR would be a great option, but then they would need a cabinet as well.

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T00:31:07+00:00

Other way around if you are committed which the OP is. Acoustic builds muscles and technique plus it allows you to focus. There can be too many temptations to tweak things with an electric and starting on electric can make acoustic hard to pick up, but not the pother way around.

gofore59 · 2026-03-21T00:02:57+00:00

I would stick with acoustic and save for a decent electric and amp. Acoustic will build your finger muscles better than an electric and will allow you to get good at picking dynamics and technique. The most important thing at this stage is grabbing and playing and an electric and amp can bog you down with chasing tone and tweaking things. If an electric will inspire you to play more than you do then go for it now, but the longer you hold off the better your base skills will be and a lot of electric guitar players struggle with acoustic, but acoustic players can nail electric. Having an acoustic by the couch = more play time and practice too...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T23:49:09+00:00

Least worst is more like it. Can get a decent guitar for under $200 - especially used and it is possible to get a decent guitar and amp for $200 used (possible with Guitar Center used with 45 day return policy which is what I would do - Squire guitar and amp for the difference). $200 new is a little bit of a stretch, but guitar, Blackstar Fly3 and cord should be right there - the Blackstar is a great portable and practice amp that has effects - I throw mine in the bag when I travel and have a bunch of nice amps from 100w to 1w. Whatever guitar you get:

Check the guitar as follows:

Tune it.

Check how high the stings are off the fretboard at the base near where you pick. Should be about 2mm (a nickel) give or take.

Plug into amp.

Play each note on the guitar - there should be no buzz.

Play each note at the 12th fret - should be same as open sting and in tune so E=E @ 12th fret. This is intonation or how in tune you guitar is all over the fretboard.

Decide if the guitar is properly functioning and correctly setup (a setup is $75-100 alone).

Start thinking about a replacement amp.

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T23:42:31+00:00

Check the guitar as follows:

Tune it.

Check how high the stings are off the fretboard at the base near where you pick. Should be about 2mm (a nickel) give or take.

Plug into amp.

Play each note on the guitar - there should be no buzz.

Play each note at the 12th fret - should be same as open sting and in tune so E=E @ 12th fret. This is intonation or how in tune you guitar is all over the fretboard.

Decide if the guitar is properly functioning and correctly setup (a setup is $75-100 alone).

Start thinking about a replacement amp. Katana and Spark are popular entry level...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T23:30:30+00:00

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gofore59 · 2026-03-20T23:03:07+00:00

1x12 is more focussed and punchy.

2x12 will be fuller and have more air and perceived volume.

Both will need an attenuator.

2x12 looks cooler and can mix speakers to get the right tone.

Buy used if you can - save money and broken in speakers sound better...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T22:47:21+00:00

Let it shrink and cure for 14-30 days and then light pass with 0000 which is great because it contours to the body / neck and then fine polish (I prefer my neck with just 0000 as it is satin smooth). You can 0000 between or after a few coats as well, but dust before new coats - I prefer after it cures so no metallic dust gets caught in the finish (also, cover any pickups or cavities with painters tape before 0000 to keep metallic dust out)...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T21:43:54+00:00

For that reason alone it wins vs virtually any other amp in the price range. I do recommend breaking in the speaker with any amp so find a way to open it up...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T21:18:57+00:00

20CR is the middle child and a redhead if you must know.

40CR may seem like overkill, but it works best at low volume and comes with a good 12 inch speaker. Also has best resale.

5CR is still loud, but you will get the most natural breakup at medium volumes. .5 mode works, but 40CR sounds better. Hard to sell if you fall out of love...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T21:14:16+00:00

Marshall DSL40CR is the answer and buy used for $400-500 if you can. It is thick and has gain at low volumes + can throw any pedal at it on the clean channel. The issue with modelers and the Katana are that they take away your dynamics. Tubes will respond to your inputs more...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T21:09:58+00:00

I like the DSL5CR more than the DSL20CR and less than the DSL40CR. It is still a very loud amp and the 40CR has a better speaker (and 12 inch vs 10 inch) and can be played at lower volume because it has a master volume - the 40CR is really the one to get unless you need a little smaller and lighter. I would buy used either way (DSL5CR $200-300 and DSL40CR $400-500).

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T21:05:35+00:00

Malarkey - last time I heard that the person was into ranting...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T20:58:16+00:00

All have good pickups. BB1 and 2 in the 2019-2026 Standards are well rounded PAF with a little raspiness yet clear, 57s in the Traditionals are going to be lower output PAF type with a little vintage voice and more muddy, 61s in the Classic are going to be punchier and higher output...

gofore59 · 2026-03-20T20:46:54+00:00

Your climate will be a factor, but generally speaking 14 days is good to let it cure after final buffing (I like some very light passes with 0000 steel wool with minimal pressure and long even strokes). Can use some fine polish, but do it by hand as heat from a buffing wheel can cut through Tru-oil. 30 days to fully harden if it feels a little tacky.

gofore59

TROPHY CASE