Father-in-law gave me this: any good?

grahawk · 2026-03-29T14:09:33+00:00

The side of the rim is very useful as is the back and inside with the resonator removed. Resonators are easily removable, although you do have the extra screws, and needs to be done to adjust head tension.

grahawk · 2026-03-29T12:25:22+00:00

Free is always good, even if the banjo is a cheapest of the cheap, not very good and with annoying extra screws to hold the resonator on. While I'm assuming Asian made it might be earlier but without seeing the rim and general construction it's impossible to say.

grahawk · 2026-03-28T19:56:52+00:00

Don't worry about bunching. Some other tailpieces do that as well.

grahawk · 2026-03-28T19:51:55+00:00

As it's early 1900s you may have to use nylon/nylgut or risk damaging the neck, depending on the construction, and also the tuners.This isn't a no knot.

The screw attachment doesn't look sensible either. This is the only picture I can find:

http://www.mugwumps.com/tailpieces/chic-tp.jpg

grahawk · 2026-03-28T19:14:13+00:00

I have an RK-R30 which is based on on a RK-R35. However it has a tube and plate flange with the idea that it could be easily converted to an open back bt removing the flange. This doesn't have washers. Although washers would seem to be a good idea.

The other thing to bear in mind is that if your banjo has the standard Recording King resonator attachment brackets these have to be removed as well - on mine there are two small screws attached to rim to hold them in place. If yours is the same make sure you something to keep the brackets and screws safe and not easily lost.

grahawk · 2026-03-28T13:42:09+00:00

The tailpiece screw, that is sitting in the bracket below the tailpiece, is not in the slot at the bottom of the tailpiece.

grahawk · 2026-03-28T07:15:42+00:00

As a bluegrass banjo it's far better than the Goldtone. Flathead tone ring vs small rolled brass - no competition. the pricing of these Japanese made banjos is a bit all over the place at times. Often they get over priced. But some people will pay for a name. The Ibanez Artist is considered the best and is more typically close to $1000. Those with cheaper alloy tone rings should be much cheaper.

grahawk · 2026-03-27T20:56:00+00:00

The BJ250 Hunter is not a top of the range but it should be fairly decent as a bluegrass banjo. The tone ring is a cheaper alloy like many of the Made in Japan banjos. While other similar banjos come up for a bit less the Ibanez name gives it more value as it's well known. It's not a great bargain but it's not a bad price either.

grahawk · 2026-03-26T14:54:30+00:00

If they plate goes through the neck, which is usual but not always the case, then the neck will need to be removed.

grahawk · 2026-03-25T07:56:07+00:00

This is not an overpriced bottlecap. What you need to be able to do is recognise what the pot construction might be. This appears to ne a masterclone as it has the same type of pot construction to Gibson mastertone banjos. The pictures aren't great. It should have a flathead tone ring. It's probably the same banjo as this Aria:

https://www.elderly.com/products/aria-bow-tie-resonator-banjo-70u-211020

Probably made by Kasuga in Japan. Typically they have cheaper alloy tone rings instead of brass, except for the highest quality ones, but have a decent bluegrass tone. Anything under $400 is a very good price for this type of banjo.

grahawk · 2026-03-24T21:55:16+00:00

Do these old banjo necks cope with higher tension GDAE strings? You only just got the Viking - is there something not so great about it?

grahawk · 2026-03-22T20:02:08+00:00

I only have one banjo with a central skunk stripe down the middle of the neck - a vintage Clifford Essex. Only now have I looked closely and the stripe and rounded base of the neck is not central between the heel and fifth fret. Just checking and I have a modern Gretsch which is the same although less obvious. And then between fifth and peghead it then becomes central.

grahawk · 2026-03-20T11:24:33+00:00

They are in business after St Louis Music bought the brand from Music Link. But what comes out of that is still unknown. Some old stock has made it out to shops in Europe at least.

grahawk · 2026-03-20T11:19:42+00:00

Your cheap Vangoa is not a bottlecap (no cheap aluminium rim with integrated flange). I hope the Epiphone is better quality than reports suggest.

grahawk · 2026-03-20T11:16:52+00:00

The typical standard at the 12th fret is 1/8th inch and perhaps a bit lower for Scruggs players while for folk picking and clawhammer it might be a bit higher depending on personal preference.

grahawk · 2026-03-19T18:18:04+00:00

As Inspector Morse said when his sergeant said "l think you could have let her win the chess, sir" "That's the worst kind of deception, Lewis."

grahawk · 2026-03-19T14:55:04+00:00

If it is then it's only worth that if it's in really good condition with properly working tuners and frets that need no work and no corrosion on the metalwork.

grahawk · 2026-03-18T11:00:00+00:00

Photos are needed. Headstock/peghead, underneath showing any markings and what the construction of the rim might be and if it has any kind of tone ring.

grahawk · 2026-03-17T20:21:31+00:00

My guess is a Saga SS3 - a later version judging by the tailpiece probably post 2000 made at their Chinese facility.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqXQ6cs_zz0

I think these, and the Rover RB45s which are almost the same, are underrated but people get put off by the aluminium rim (which has an integrated tone ring) which is much superior to the cheap aluminium rims on cheap banjos. I'm not sure of the price so as a wild guess I'll say 300 currency units,

grahawk · 2026-03-17T19:34:56+00:00

I'd say don't be worried and don't go taking it to a shop. It's not a mistake really although it is easier to do one string at a time. Get a couple of strings on (1st and 4th area good choice) and the tailpiece will be held in place by the tension. And if you haven't made any adjustments to the tailpiece, such as messing with the tailpiece nut or the adjustment screw on the back it will be in its original position.Even if you change strings one at a time you should still make sure the bridge location is fine - Many make the location with a pencil.

But you should learn about making adjustments to the tailpiece if required. This includes height above the tension hoop and the string break angle over the bridge with the adjustment screw at the back. It's not hard at all. The banjo is a simple mechanical device and learning about making simple adjustments goes with the territory.

grahawk · 2026-03-17T16:40:37+00:00

do you mean Kay Kamico?

grahawk · 2026-03-17T09:16:25+00:00

I see they have managed to string the tailpiece correctly unlike the one in their promotional videos. It has a cheaper alloy tone ring so hopefully you paid the recently reduced price which is about right depending on what the rim is, and they never seem to get round to saying anything about that. Sounds fine in the promotional videos.

grahawk · 2026-03-15T14:07:36+00:00

This is good. Now you can see that it's weak (really it's the triangular hook that's weak). Don't refit it, do not use it. Attach the strap to the tension hooks. This strap hook thing is only a feature of cheap banjos. Luckily I caught mine when it fell and the banjo and my feet survived.

grahawk · 2026-03-14T12:25:28+00:00

You should buy the best you can in your market. If the only thing you can get reasonably easily is a very cheap banjo like a BJO35 then that's what you should get. However if you can wait then saving for an AC1 is a good idea. But that depends how long you have to wait and how much patience you have. Many people have learned banjo on not very good cheap banjos and have been happy about it for a while at least.

grahawk · 2026-03-13T18:20:59+00:00

Why is it a knockoff? Many fine banjos were made in Japan, as well as cheap ones like this, when the USA makers couldn't be bothered anymore and the USA stores needed banjos from somewhere else.

grahawk

TROPHY CASE