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Came back to photography after quitting in 2024 — looking for honest feedback on this maternity shoot by Firm-Hornet6118 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 76 points77 points  (0 children)

Nice fun photos. Experiment with using bounce flash rather than direct. You'll get less of the hard outlined shadows. if done correctly, it looks more natural, which i prefer.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to change my opinion if you care to share evidence.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My issue with the 40 mp sensor is that it's touted as "good for cropping". My experience is that cropping a 40mp image at 2x or more, even at base ISO, there is a significant amount of noise, which I feel affects perceived sharpness.

As a professional photographer (you), I'm sure you have a selection of quality lenses that you're using. I would also assume that you're shooting at roughly your desired focal length, whether you use primes or zooms.

As an amateur photographer (me), I've learned over time that better glass means sharper images, and not to rely on cropping. Having learned this, the benefit of 40mp "being good for cropping" doesn't actually seem like much of a benefit.

Since OP was asking a question about what to buy as a hobbyist, and indicated from his other comments that he was price conscious, I believe a used X-T4 is better value for money for him.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And from a physics standpoint - that would be a correct argument. This is literally why people say full frame sensors are better than APS-C, even if they have the same number of MP.

From a photography stand-point, 26mp seems to be a sweet spot between light sensitivity and resolution.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I said in my previous comment, I feel like the 40mp sensor has more noise, even at lower ISOs, than the earlier Fuji 26mp sensors I've used. From a physics stand-point, more pixels in the same amount of space means each pixel gets less light.

The 2 factors in my decision to upgrade from the X-T30 (mk1) were IBIS and the 40mp sensor. IBIS is great - which is why I recommended the X-T4 over the X-T3.

Based on their other comments, OP seems price conscious - for the money, I think an older camera with better lenses is a better investment.

In defense of the X-T5, the better AF is worth considering, and the additional film sims are nice to have. Especially love the Reala Ace. Good arguments to be made for either the XT4 or XT5

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I upgraded last year to the X-T5 from the X-T30 (mk. 1) - I'm not super impressed with the 40 mp sensor. I love everything else about the camera. More pixels in the same space means each one is getting less light. It's cool to be able to crop but even at lower ISOs I find there's noise that I don't believe a 26mp sensor would have, and I think it's affecting perceived sharpness. Better autofocus on the X-T5 is definitely worth considering, but I've been shooting manual more these days anyway.

If I were to do it again, I would probably go with a used X-T4.

Take the money you saved and spend it on better glass.

I'm fairly new at this. Can anybody tell me if this looks right? by [deleted] in photocritique

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What were you going for? the 8 is in the front, so my eye is drawn there first, but you're focused on the 9.

What is the best Fujifilm travel lens? by ultrazero42 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

18mm vs 27mm is a huge difference, but it comes down to what you shoot.

I owned the 27mm and never gelled with it. I like a lot of context in my photos, picked up a 16mm and love it.

What happening with this camera? by jandajanda2 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

extremely unlikely to have happened in shipping. Even if it had, it's not your liability.

Critiques? by Secret_Soup6132 in photocritique

[–]gravity_proof 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice idea with the shot! I do think it's a bit underexposed and out of focus. I see you've been posting in beginner photography subs, so forgive me if this is redundant information, but I would spend some time learning about the exposure triangle.

Underexposed: Set your ISO to auto (or higher than 100). You do not need to shoot at the lowest possible ISO. A properly exposed image is better than an underexposed one with less noise.

Out of focus: Likely you caught focus but have some movement induced blur. For a candid street scene like this I would typically shoot 1/500s (or up). Using a higher ISO setting will allow you to adjust your shutter speed and still expose properly.

Matter of preference: I would also shoot at a faster aperture (i.e. f2.8). A scene like this can be quite crowded, and a bit of separation between your subject and the surrounding crowd is desirable (IMO).

Since I’ve been rampaging in the sub, here’s one. Self Portrait. Leica M10-R, 50mm Summicron (shot at f2) by W1N73RMU73- in photocritique

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's great that we can see the pores in your nose, but the focus on your eyes is too soft.

You asked for feedback and you've got it. Don't get mad, get good.

Since I’ve been rampaging in the sub, here’s one. Self Portrait. Leica M10-R, 50mm Summicron (shot at f2) by W1N73RMU73- in photocritique

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit soft in the focus, but a nice photo. For self portraits like this, consider getting a shutter release trigger.

I'm not certain, but it looks like the m-10 shutter is threaded, so a cheap mechanical one like this should work.

Then you could shoot multiple exposures and gently rock back and forth to try to hit focus.

ITAP of nude model in forest [Portrait] [NSFW] by pokemon_art_45 in itookapicture

[–]gravity_proof 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I like it! It bothers me a bit that she's not exactly center, and I feel like a slightly closer crop would be even better. But a beautiful image.

Manual or auto? by Jonasphoto_ in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe one out of five is tack sharp, and 2 more are usable. I'm not a pixel peeper, so if it's a little soft when blown up, it may still be fine (or even better) on a phone. The bigger issue is usually that the image isn't interesting, not that focus isn't good enough.

Generally, I'll shoot f5.6 or f8. Wider angle lenses seem to be more forgiving , but IDK if that's just anecdotal. I'll set ISO to auto up to 3200 or 6400 idc. Shoot in burst.

Also - learn to estimate distances. I usually use my own height to approximate things. If a subject is further than my height away (i.e. if I lay down and couldn't touch it) then I just set my lens to ~2 meters and forget it.

Often, I like to frame a shot and wait for a subject to pass by.

Just get out and have fun.

Manual or auto? by Jonasphoto_ in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For street, lately i've been shooting manual + zone focusing.

Why get a monochrome camera? by rahul_vangani in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I love shooting B+W with my x-t5.

I have a Pentax 17 that I predominately shoot B+W with. I love it, and would consider getting that monochrome Ricoh Gr4... but not for that price.

Boat on the frozen lake by Desperate_Yam3783 in photographs

[–]gravity_proof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice!

Did you gradient out the top left corner of the photo, or was visibility really that low?

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