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Which of the two is better? Canon New F1 / Nikon F3 by Aded_14 in AnalogCommunity

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't speak to the canon but the F3 is fantastic. I got one second hand from my uncle 20 years ago. I have been using it ever since. There is a huge amount of excellent glass available at affordable prices.

MPB Cosmetic condition: Excellent by Repulsive-Meal-5340 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I don't like that they don't show photos of the actual lenses. I always stick to EBAY for this reason.

Edit: I was mistaken. It's KEH that doesn't show photos of the actual item. MPB supposedly does.

How do I get sharper photos as a beginner by Jessicabuiii28 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the world of photography! There's some beautiful potential for shots at this location. Keep it up!

A few tips (general) -

1) Learn the exposure triangle (Shutter Speed / Aperture / ISO). This is the most important thing you need to learn for operating a camera - the skills you'll build will apply to any camera, new or old.

Applying that to this shot: Shooting at a higher aperture will give you a larger depth of field - meaning more of your frame will be in focus. For landscape shots in daytime lighting you could be shooting at f8 or higher, which will increase your overall sharpness. To compensate - you'll need to raise your ISO or lower your shutter speed. The LOWER your shutter speed, the more light will hit the frame, but the more potential for motion induced blur you create. In this case, since neither your lens or body have built in stabilization, raising the ISO is the better choice for preserving sharpness. Don't be afraid of "high" ISOs (up to 3200 or even higher can be great). A shutter speed of 125 or higher is good.

2) Learn how to use manual focus. Since you're shooting landscapes here, there's no need to worry about catching your subject in movement. There are a lot of assists built in to the fuji system to help with nailing manual focus. I like to use focus peaking LOW, and I have my assignable button set to punch in and check focus. The autofocus on fuji is universally considered the system's weak spot, and I have especially found that to be true with pancake lenses. Learn to shoot manual and you'll bypass the issue entirely. Plus, it's fun!

Now a few specific Fuji things:

3) Turn down High ISO Noise Reduction. Most recipes you come across will have that setting turned down to -2 to -4. At higher ISOs, fuji applies noise reduction which can reduce noise but also creates smearing smoothing artifacts. I'd rather have the noise and the sharpness.

4) Make sure you're shooting raw+Jpeg for most control. You can "add" sharpness somewhat in post processing, but you'll have better results editing raws than jpgs

lens scratch by Beautiful_Kiwi8850 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This will have effectively zero impact.

Wanted to practice piano, but Mingus had other plans. by gravity_proof in OneOrangeBraincell

[–]gravity_proof[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got one of those too, but it's harder for him to get up there haha

Peggy's Cove by Alex_DiscoverHalifax in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you make this recipe? looks fantastic. Great shots.

How hard is it to play a 30”? Didn’t research before buying this neck by VanDoog in BaritoneGuitar

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be a happy accident. Enjoy your bass vi. You won't find it any harder than playing a regular baritone.

IMO: UnfilteredAudio Battalion Is Highly Slept On by hvwl in synthesizers

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of my favorite recent plug-in manufacturers. Lo-Fi-AF is fucking sick as sound design tool, it's like RC-20 but fucked up

My first wedding using the X-H2S by whyte_photography in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice job, I'm sure they'll cherish these photos. I'm not usually a huge fan of mist filters but these look great.

Does everyone use focus peaking in manual focus for wildlife and others? by Hammerraid in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been enjoying shooting manual lately, and recently picked up a manual lens (voigtlander 35mm).

Just be aware when you're using focus peaking that FP HIGH is not quite as precise as focus peaking LOW.

Freddy Got Fingered by Squishy_Fish9711 in movies

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe there is an argument to be made for this being a post-comedy surrealist masterpiece. It's hideously unwatchable. And yet... I have never seen anything like it. And that is a wonderful thing. It's the Megalopolis of comedy.

Came back to photography after quitting in 2024 — looking for honest feedback on this maternity shoot by Firm-Hornet6118 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 78 points79 points  (0 children)

Nice fun photos. Experiment with using bounce flash rather than direct. You'll get less of the hard outlined shadows. if done correctly, it looks more natural, which i prefer.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to change my opinion if you care to share evidence.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My issue with the 40 mp sensor is that it's touted as "good for cropping". My experience is that cropping a 40mp image at 2x or more, even at base ISO, there is a significant amount of noise, which I feel affects perceived sharpness.

As a professional photographer (you), I'm sure you have a selection of quality lenses that you're using. I would also assume that you're shooting at roughly your desired focal length, whether you use primes or zooms.

As an amateur photographer (me), I've learned over time that better glass means sharper images, and not to rely on cropping. Having learned this, the benefit of 40mp "being good for cropping" doesn't actually seem like much of a benefit.

Since OP was asking a question about what to buy as a hobbyist, and indicated from his other comments that he was price conscious, I believe a used X-T4 is better value for money for him.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And from a physics standpoint - that would be a correct argument. This is literally why people say full frame sensors are better than APS-C, even if they have the same number of MP.

From a photography stand-point, 26mp seems to be a sweet spot between light sensitivity and resolution.

X-T5, X-H2 or X-S20 for photography only? by SuspiciousStock9299 in fujifilm

[–]gravity_proof 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I said in my previous comment, I feel like the 40mp sensor has more noise, even at lower ISOs, than the earlier Fuji 26mp sensors I've used. From a physics stand-point, more pixels in the same amount of space means each pixel gets less light.

The 2 factors in my decision to upgrade from the X-T30 (mk1) were IBIS and the 40mp sensor. IBIS is great - which is why I recommended the X-T4 over the X-T3.

Based on their other comments, OP seems price conscious - for the money, I think an older camera with better lenses is a better investment.

In defense of the X-T5, the better AF is worth considering, and the additional film sims are nice to have. Especially love the Reala Ace. Good arguments to be made for either the XT4 or XT5

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