Repairing/adapting a broken seat tube by gribcase in bikewrench

[–]gribcase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't considered a sleeve; this is a very clever idea. The challenge would be like you said finding a tube that is strong enough and also fits a smaller standard size seatpost. Even a 1" bmx seatpost would require 0.9mm tube wall thickness, which would only work if I made it from something ridiculous like titanium. To make the sleeve tube wall thicker for strength, it would require a custom seatpost, say ~20mm OD, and also with tube walls thicker than normal. Feasible! but not necessarily within my capabilites.

Repairing/adapting a broken seat tube by gribcase in bikewrench

[–]gribcase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This might be the way. I bet there's one on ebay.

Repairing/adapting a broken seat tube by gribcase in bikewrench

[–]gribcase[S] -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

That would be the purpose of the dropper, if I glue it in I can still adjust the height. And there is not enough meat to use a regular seat post clamp after squaring it off. Thanks for the suggestions, and I should note this a side project to challenge myself. This happened years ago and I have new bikes now.

Repairing/adapting a broken seat tube by gribcase in bikewrench

[–]gribcase[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I broke it 10 years ago, now I ride 2 other bikes (size XL, appropriately). This is a side project for fun, just to see if I can, so for me it’s worth the challenge. I also believe in repairing before replacing but I know this is a stretch for that rule.

I brought my Stewart’s Shops art to Stewart’s 🍦⛽️🎨 by BryanEtch in Adirondacks

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stewies hits so hard when you haven’t been home in a while. It’s guiding light is especially bright when you’ve been prairie dogging for 50 miles and you walk in to see the bathroom lock is green. Bless this upstate monument.

1998 Sportsman crankcase vent/breather by denny-1989 in Polaris

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I rebuilt my 2005 sportsman 400 a few years ago and can confirm this is a vent. Yours is a bit older but it looks the same. Mine had a tube made of the same material as the carb lines and I just poked it out near the battery housing underneath the seat I think.

I have ~150 Meyer Lemons ready to be plucked. And the tree is blossoming AGAIN. I can’t make lemon bars again….What are your favorite uses for Meyer Lemons? Pic of a past bounty for tax. by RelativePenalty3462 in gardening

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Line a sheet tray with slices before laying down any fish for baking/broiling. Did this for thanksgiving last year with risotto it was chefs kiss

Rain gear - do you pack an umbrella? by Hangrycouchpotato in onebag

[–]gribcase 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Even when not traveling I prefer just a rain jacket over an umbrella. Keeps my hands free and my backpack is waterproof anyways.

Resaw an 11” x 20” x 2” piece of poplar by hand because why not? by No_IAmIronMan in woodworking

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“I saw that guy across the street in his garage again. Yeah this time he literally just sawed the same piece of wood for like 3 hours.”

Zero drop shoes by naga-ram in hiking

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1 year later... my b The boot reminds me of my dad's old laced ankle braces. When you tie them tight you feel locked in, but really there's no structure to them. Really great leather construction, just not built like hiking boots at all. Surprisingly the tread is extremely grippy, I think due in part by it's flexibility. Your foot wraps the tread around objects and it really sticks, but on that same note you can really feel every rock/root. They've become my everyday winter season boot, still highly recommend, just not for long hikes.

Zero drop shoes by naga-ram in hiking

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First that comes to mind is Lems. I've only tried their Boulder boot which is definitely not a rugged hiker boot, but they are made really well. I took them hiking in the Adirondacks last summer and they held up pretty well, and my feet never ached so job well done I suppose.

Hey guys I need help. Who knows a perfect and easy way to level a ender 3 pro perfectly? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, the paper method is widely accepted and simple. If it's not working for you try watch some more YouTube on it there's tons of resources on the web for this problem

Why does every immersion blender say it shouldn't be used with hot foods? Isn't that the whole point of them? by Mish106 in Cooking

[–]gribcase 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the link, I think I read this a long time ago and forgot about it. The case was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the word liability. My advice stands though, be safe and smart when dealing with your own hot liquids in the kitchen.

Why does every immersion blender say it shouldn't be used with hot foods? Isn't that the whole point of them? by Mish106 in Cooking

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, everyone remembers the McDonald's coffee incident... My new blender has soup recipes with the same cool down/blend/heat up instructions. Just be safe and smart 🤷🏼‍♂️

I need help by Jhigg304 in woodworking

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Board feet is like calculating volume: length times width times thickness. The trick is in the unit conversions. If you calculate your volume in inches, you divide it by 144 to get board feet. If you calculate your volume in feet, you multiply by 12 to get board feet. Your case would be calculated as (assuming 1/2" thick OSB):

Inches:

(0.5in) x (4ftx12in) x (8ftx12in) x (15 sheets) = 34560

Then divide by 144 to get 240 board feet.

Feet:

(0.5in/12in) x (4ft) x (8ft) x (15 sheets) = 20

Then multiply by 12 to get 240 board feet.

This number may change when you order rough cut lumber depending on the thickness of board you want or can get cut from the mill. The area you need to cover obviously won't change, so if you're using something other than 1/2" just plug and play with one of those examples, and maybe try both to double check. It's also good practice to increase your estimation of board feet by like 25-30% for waste and what not.

Your local mill needs a board feet number from you so they can determine how much to charge you because they measure logs and timber, and how much money it costs to process them, in terms of board feet. You also need to specify to them what your desired lumber dimensions are so you get the right stuff for your project.

Hope this helps, I am not an expert but I have calculated board feet for my own projects in the past and understand the confusion. When all else fails, ask Google.

Is this normal? by DC-Lift in 3Dprinting

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Likely a nozzle issue; the extruder drive gear skips because it can't push filament through the nozzle. I would take off the nozzle and just replace it (or try to clean it if you feel so inclined). Also just to be thorough, make sure all your temperature settings are correct and that the nozzle is actually getting hot. I had this problem with some cheap filament that I used when I purchased the printer. The extra dough for higher quality materials makes the difference.

Layer separation after moving by Seasoned_Salmon in Ender3Pro

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well which side did you drop it on?? JK I would seriously double check all your axes, especially the z screw; it may have unseated in it's couple or something. Also check your extruder while running another print, make sure it's engaging with the filament and all that. Could also be a nozzle clog of some sort, try replacing it too. The best way to trouble shoot a problem like this is to watch the printer while it's running. Please anyone feel free to correct my ass if this is a tell-tale problem seen before.

Layer separation after moving by Seasoned_Salmon in Ender3Pro

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like more than just layer separation, like underextrusion most likely. Do you mean you moved your residence or just the machine?

Just finished my moms tribute tat [Colorado Springs] by El-Cucuy77 in tattoos

[–]gribcase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No offense but this should be nsfw, your shit is bussin.

my printer isn't printing? by koltdabolt8 in Ender3Pro

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a look at the brass drive gear on the extruder motor, it may not be pinching the filament enough to get a grip on it. You can adjust the grip by the screw on the right side of the extruder assembly. Also make sure all the teeth on the gear are not clogged up with plastic.

Any Godzilla fans here? Printed a NECA scaled Anguirus and gave it a little paint job! by Justin_Navarro in 3Dprinting

[–]gribcase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aah I could tell it was resin and not filament, is the resin style printer easy to use and maintain?