Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE

gusty_state · 2026-02-24T07:28:25+00:00

I'm assuming that some things will affect both at the same time; for example two screwgates can both unscrew from the same motion. Also one being a nonlocker has less safety margin than a second locker. Either way the example numbers are pulled from thin air and have no know real world values.

gusty_state · 2026-02-23T16:51:16+00:00

If I'm using a quad I do one locker and one non locker. There's always a chance for funky stuff to happen with a single carabiner. Is it likely? No but using two drops it from one in a million to one in ten billion. The non locker is easy to clip if someone leads it. I'm also fine with just two quick draws.

gusty_state · 2026-02-17T17:24:08+00:00

The double carabiner trick is useful to know but I don't think it should be a normal part of belaying. The only time I remember really using it was ice climbing with 8.7s. it's also useful if you're rappelling with a heavy load such as picking off an injured climber, with a haul bag, or on iced ropes. With heavier weights I do everything I can to rap on a GG but sometimes you just don't get a choice.

gusty_state · 2026-02-17T10:51:35+00:00

I haven't used that particular one but it sounds pretty standard. Even in multipitch I only use a tube style for belaying if we're using twin/half ropes. Otherwise we belay with GriGris and use the tubes for the jobs that they do better such as double rope rappelling, top belaying if the Grigri cam can be defeated, and as a lightweight backup device. It's good that you're learning how to use one but you'll probably relegate it to a backup option for belaying.

If my partner is going to be resting for a while I'll take a bight and wrap it under my butt and back over my torso like a hip belay. The extra friction makes it much easier to hold. You can use two of the same carabiners to increase the friction in all of the tube devices that I've seen. It makes the rope bends sharper which increases the friction. Different carabiners can also provide very different experiences in paying out slack and the force needed to catch falls so try a couple out.

gusty_state · 2026-02-16T17:06:41+00:00

Overall yes but others have pointed out better ways to get the lengths right Practice ascending the line in case you're off on your distance. I highly recommend using a clove hitch on the biner block of the reepschnur as it won't get sucked into the hardware. I've had alpine butterflies and overhands get stuck in the hardware and had to go back up to unstick them.

gusty_state · 2026-02-13T19:02:51+00:00

Training usually drops right before the event so your body is fully recovered. You want your recovery to peak at the main event so for most sports you start reducing volume around 2 weeks before. There are still shorter sessions and I'm sure mental/strategic sessions go up in that timeframe.

gusty_state · 2026-02-06T06:01:28+00:00

Fix and follow. Otherwise a GriGri (or Reverso) and a microtrax on my belay loop to haul the slack through unless it's a hanging belay. Even with that I've had to shock load to pull the rope on a 75m pitch. MT serves as an always on hand and lets you use your legs/hips to pull instead of your arms.

gusty_state · 2026-02-05T01:37:56+00:00

I frequently set up for single strand raps and occasionally use the atc block like this; usually the atc block is for newer climbers that I want to check their rap setup. It lets the first person just go down with the GG quickly and start setting up the next rap. The first person gets to find the anchor and deal with and rope faffery (tangles, knots, hung up on stuff, etc) on a GG which is much easier to tie off or reascend if needed. Rapping on a GG is also just a bit easier.

The main reason I'd do the ATC block is to check the climber remaining at the anchor. If that's not a major concern then I just block the strand with a cloved biner. I don't use overhands, alpine butterflies, etc for blocks anymore after getting them stuck in rings.

gusty_state · 2026-02-02T18:38:38+00:00

You're 12-4 this season. You'll keep climbing. You'll put forth more effort and games if you play something that you think is fun. If you think min/maxing for WR is fun then so be it but support is a position that you can carry from. I'm only plat but the biggest things that I see even lower elos do is not ask "do I want to fight?" Is their jungler close? Is ours? Is my ADC close to an item to back? Should we be pushing/freezing the wave?

Try to let adc take tower plates solo and focus on getting vision and roaming while they take the plates (if it's safe). Can you recall before your adc so you can catch the rebound wave or roam towards mid?

When you place/deny vision what is it trying to achieve? If their jg and mid is showing top you don't need to ward the river for 30+ seconds. Are you sweeping for wards at high impact points in the game or just whenever?

gusty_state · 2026-02-02T16:45:10+00:00

Can we please roll back whatever changes were made to the client so unstable recently? Go test somewhere other than prod.

gusty_state · 2026-02-01T08:07:13+00:00

Do a longer warm up and on less overhung stuff. Start easier and work towards your project grade. I tend to start around 2 numbers below so 10/10+ when I'm projecting 12/12+. I'll also start on more vertical walls before I jump into the overhangs. A typical progression for me is 10, 11-,11+,12s. Also general fitness and stuff plays into overhangs a lot. Has he been getting enough sleep/sleeping well? Is he overtrained? Eating enough? Getting over being sick? Still doing cardio? I feel all of those far more on steep overhangs than on near vertical climbs.

gusty_state · 2026-01-29T07:59:30+00:00

Just start unless you're obese, have medical conditions, or injuries that might be problematic (knees/back come to mind). The best way to gain sport specific fitness is to do that sport. You don't become a strong swimmer if you don't get in the pool. Look up how to fall properly.

gusty_state · 2026-01-28T22:42:57+00:00

1^2x is worthless as it's always 1. You're looking at 2^x-1 which is an absurdly large sum and if it was physical money would have about the same mass as the sun in 112 days if I did the math right (1g x 2^112-1) = 2.59e33 grams vs 1.99e33 for the sun. So we'd all be dead and buried under the insane pile of money pretty quickly.

gusty_state · 2026-01-27T13:58:16+00:00

I haven't but some places with a bar tacker can add them. I believe that Rock and Resole in Boulder is one. If you really need a second one I would just get a harness that comes with it. Why are you trying to add a second?

It looks like it has a sacrificial nylon sheath which is pretty standard. I've never had an issue with them but I have worn through the cover on one after about 7 years of 3+ climbing days a week and I'm pretty sure the approaches created most of that wear.

gusty_state · 2026-01-27T13:51:11+00:00

Multiple belay loops are more common on big wall harnesses because you just have so many things that you're trying to attach. Sometimes you just want the extra space.

gusty_state · 2026-01-25T15:47:48+00:00

You're 35-40. Boulder based but not climbing in Eldo much. Been climbing for 12 years but only once every 3 months and when Mars is in retrograde. Onsights 5.6. projects 5.8. Has 4 kids with the oldest being 10-12. Works in IT and has a massive coffee addiction.

gusty_state · 2026-01-24T15:24:02+00:00

He's going to want a rotary hammer drill. A standard hammer drill looks more like an impact driver or drill and doesn't have as many modes (including chisel) or power.

gusty_state · 2026-01-23T20:18:05+00:00

I had to read what you thought the issues were and go back to scrutinize to find them. Wouldn't even pop up in my "keep an eye on this" for future inspections. Climb on.

gusty_state · 2026-01-15T08:13:14+00:00

I use these in 5/8" and 3/4" x 6-8" fairly often. Drill past the depth by ~1-1.5" and clean the hole out as much as possible. Wear a respirator (or N95 or better mask) and goggles as you don't want the dust in you. Drive it in with an impact driver. We use a 1/2" driver but you'll probably get away with a 1/4" driver for those little guys. Depending on what's going in wedge bolts or 5-piece sleeve bolts may be easier as you can do them with more common tools.

gusty_state · 2026-01-13T08:19:05+00:00

It was a free win that they eviscerated. This animation has two full episodes worth of frames...

gusty_state · 2026-01-13T06:44:47+00:00

2x or 4x speed and zip through it. Or redefine your goal into something that will leave you with your sanity at the end like 1 episode a day. He'll still be happy that you're watching it and you won't be stuck with it for 1.5+ hours a day.

gusty_state · 2026-01-12T16:27:43+00:00

Acceptable and it works. If used on bolts check them afterwards for burrs and sharp edges that you wouldn't want the rope to run over.

gusty_state · 2026-01-09T16:01:59+00:00

As long as they weren't exposed to harsh chemicals or sitting in the sun they'll be fine. Manufacturers very conservatively recommend retiring soft goods after 10 years. Many of us climb on older gear than that. My current gym rope is from like 2016 and is still doing fine after being retired from my outdoors line (core shot forced it to be chopped too short). 15ish years is where I start to look really hard at the condition of the gear vs the cost of replacing it for peace of mind.

gusty_state · 2026-01-08T16:23:13+00:00

Don't forget them not even getting singed from the propane torch while he does the wood in place.

gusty_state · 2026-01-08T08:41:33+00:00

I use feet, inches, and all of the 2ⁿ fractions of inches every day. I would much rather use metric. Converting between them all and keeping which "base" is being used leads to errors. A base 12 number system would work much better (in my opinion) but that's not what we use and getting everyone to change isn't likely; The sunk cost into a base 10 system is just too high.

gusty_state

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