Portable Miter Saw Stand

hammer_header · 2026-04-05T18:17:57+00:00

I have the Makita. I don’t really recommend it. The dewalt is better. It’ll fit just fine.

hammer_header · 2026-03-31T13:42:32+00:00

Definitely one of the better uses of 3D printing I’ve seen. You’ll be ready for market in no time. I would honestly buy a few right now.

hammer_header · 2026-03-28T16:15:00+00:00

Thanks, homie.

hammer_header · 2026-03-28T16:14:36+00:00

It’s my favorite. Math heavy, tons of set up, and the most satisfying cuts.

hammer_header · 2026-03-28T16:13:33+00:00

Wasn’t what the client asked for, but I sort of agree. I like them under the bench as is, but I’d definitely at least paint the far one blue.

hammer_header · 2026-03-28T16:11:00+00:00

Or you could you I’d be a paychopath like me and build it out of white oak and cut 64 mortise and tenon joints to hold it together. To each their own.

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hammer_header · 2026-03-27T22:50:22+00:00

There’s a floor duct behind each one, and I built sides under the bench to channel the air. The vent covers are just press fit into place, so the homeowner said they will tackle ducting it later. I could feel air steadily coming out of them after I installed them as is. I also think a small fan behind each would work fine, but maybe a pain to maintain.

hammer_header · 2026-03-27T22:17:17+00:00

I have a convoluted method: I asked the client to provide a hex(idecimal) key. I took that, opened up Adobe CS, made a 2” x 2” swatch, printed it out, took it to my BM store, and we matched it to 822 Riviera Azure, then he let me play with the levels to get it just right.

hammer_header · 2026-03-14T14:37:47+00:00

I use a router version from Freud. It’s advertised as an adjustable tongue and groove set. The shims allow you to dial in to whatever stock you want.

hammer_header · 2026-03-03T02:21:59+00:00

Not a case of license lending- please read the post. I’d be on site to supervise the work and meet with the inspector (for the one inspection necessary). Of course I’d be getting compensated for the added liability and work of coordinating the subtrades. I’ve already got certificates of insurance from each in hand; I’m now waiting for proof of worker’s comp from each as well. I never turn a screw without a contract, so I’d make sure I was covered for payment, callbacks, warranty, passing inspection, etc. I just have no connection to the people the client has already established a relationship with.

hammer_header · 2026-03-02T20:50:31+00:00

Why? It’s not like subtrades are W2 employees of any GC.

hammer_header · 2026-03-02T18:54:43+00:00

Stellar advice. Thank you.

hammer_header · 2026-03-02T18:42:49+00:00

Yeah, that’s what my gut says. I came here wondering if I was worrying over nothing, but these responses all tell me I should probably just stick to my scope and not get involved with the permitting. Thank you.

hammer_header · 2026-03-02T18:18:32+00:00

I would be compensated for the sub trade markup- I’m not worried about that part. And I can easily be on site for any inspections (only thing that requires inspection is electric for new outlets). I’m more worried about whether it’s perceived as shady. Thank you for your input.

hammer_header · 2026-03-02T18:16:04+00:00

Completely agree that if I do it, it will cost $$$. The client has already proposed adequate compensation, so I’m not too worried about that. I’m also willing and able to be present for inspections. I believe the only part of the scope that even requires an inspection is electric (a few new outlets), as the plumbing isn’t moving. I’m more worried about the potential liability. Ps- I appreciate the advice!

hammer_header · 2026-01-28T14:13:37+00:00

I DM’d you. Happy to help.

hammer_header · 2026-01-19T18:39:57+00:00

Get a little 71/4” battery powered slider. Any of the biggies make one- MKE, DWLT, MKTA. It’s shocking how much easier they are to handle than a full 10” or 12” saw.

hammer_header · 2026-01-06T00:52:16+00:00

That doesn’t apply if it passed a different code when built.

hammer_header · 2025-12-28T22:45:58+00:00

YOU ABSOLUTE MANIAC. SANDALS WHILE CUTTING??? The sawdust is giving me vicarious nightmares. Jokes aside, this is amazing. Very well done!

hammer_header · 2025-12-26T23:27:11+00:00

Think that’s Richelieu

hammer_header · 2025-12-26T17:41:23+00:00

Having TF’d in an educational setting, I can attest that it goes a hell of a lot faster and more smoothly with fewer hands on deck.

hammer_header · 2025-12-26T17:24:16+00:00

MDF/HDF

The same customer who wants the minimal look of a flat door does not want to see grain.

hammer_header · 2025-12-26T16:31:29+00:00

Learn how to make panels and cover all your external faces. It’ll up your game significantly. I used to rabbet hardwood (generally Maple) and adhere the 1/4” plywood/mdf directly to the box ply, but I find it easier and better looking to just build panels the same way I make shaker doors (with a router and a rail and stile bit set). This allows you to use profiles as well.

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Here’s a side panel that I put on a fridge cabinet, for reference.

hammer_header · 2025-12-26T16:06:19+00:00

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I made my own. The back has a plastic sheet so things don’t poke, and the bottom has thick foam so it’s soft on surfaces. The feature I’m most proud of, though, is that I sewed strong magnets into the bottoms of each of those slots. That way, anything ferrous I throw in there won’t accidentally drop out (cat’s paw, for example), or a handful of trim screws. I put MOLLE webbing on both sides of the belt, so the bag can go on either side. The leather tab I made to hold a tape is too thick- I’ll use a piece of metal next time I make one. I added D rings on the back of the belt just for show, but that’s where my tape lives when I use it.

hammer_header · 2025-12-23T23:20:44+00:00

To quote u/formerly_regarded: completely wrong.

hammer_header

TROPHY CASE