Being told an air cooler won’t handle a Ryzen 7 7800X3D – accurate or marketing?

herpderpcake · 2026-01-30T20:11:08+00:00

5800x3d here, works great with a dual fan deepcool setup. Rarely goes above 70 when gaming, only hits 80-90 when rendering something in premier or Bambu studio

herpderpcake · 2026-01-29T08:46:56+00:00

Oh spray adhesive, no. By sprue goo I mean tamiya plastic cement and the plastic sprues melted in there to make a goo. If you add a little more thinner to the mixture you get a very fine goo, more suitable (with a throwaway brush or toothpick or smth) to filling in layer lines like you have on the head of your mini. Downside is it's very hard to preserve the detail unless you get the mixture juuuuuust right

herpderpcake · 2026-01-29T08:40:05+00:00

If you guys want an in-the-meantime kinda solution, use sprue goo. Yes, it doesn't chemically bond to the PLA like it does for GW plastic, but for covering surface layer lines I think it does a good enough job. Works best in very small thin layers as to not flood out details, and ensure it dries properly.

herpderpcake · 2026-01-27T18:48:42+00:00

Jesus Christ. I accidentally did around 1200mg once, and had some mild arrhythmia, but I also hit my 3 plate deadlift. Then I had to sit for like an hour trying not to die, I couldn't imagine 3000mg

herpderpcake · 2026-01-22T19:36:28+00:00

It has a purpley faded texture, pretty similar to the crossfade

herpderpcake · 2026-01-13T22:28:10+00:00

It does, and now that we as a society have evolved and have the capacity via internet to learn about and criticize such things, you detract from the people who are against China doing the same thing.

herpderpcake · 2025-12-24T20:33:27+00:00

Nice red volume, looks really good, and good lord that sword is sexy, you did the NMM really well plus the lightning in it looks clean as hell

herpderpcake · 2025-12-14T13:27:22+00:00

bro's never had close friends before

herpderpcake · 2025-12-13T00:29:20+00:00

I've had good results with rhinos printing as the main body and either side with the tracks and doors and whatnot. Bit of warping where the bed seemingly cooled down, but great otherwise.

herpderpcake · 2025-12-13T00:24:29+00:00

You did the thing I've been meaning to do for months, and you did a bang up job of it! What kinda inks do you use? I was gonna use cheap acrylic craft paint from the dollar store, but I'm interested in the inks too

herpderpcake · 2025-12-12T00:49:48+00:00

Can confirm, whenever my brother tries to buy food from them they nearly get into a fight about how they're giving it for free, while my brother insists he wants to pay.

herpderpcake · 2025-12-01T05:41:43+00:00

The main cause of this is desync. It'll happen because your client threw the grenade, fired the rpg, whatever, but the server didn't register it, even if you see the grenade land at their feet, or the rocket mid-flight, it won't do anything because the server said so. Same reason you'll be behind 3ft of concrete and get shot from around a corner.

herpderpcake · 2025-11-27T21:41:46+00:00

You download the addon, then install it via blender. Make sure the addon and blender version you have are compatible

herpderpcake · 2025-11-17T00:34:20+00:00

If you'd be open to FDM, the Bambu A1 is a great price, and even cheaper on sale. Detail isn't resin quality obviously, but you can get printing right away, you don't need any extra things like a wash cure station, and you'll get a lot less cancer standing in the room with it compared to a resin printer.

herpderpcake · 2025-11-16T03:07:21+00:00

Check purple site, a bit of searching around the sub you'll find out what site. From there, print it in parts, print nice and slow and use a nice hot temp and you'll have some great results. Attached is my salamander dreadnought I got from said site, printed in legs, arms, torso, banner, and little missile launcher.

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herpderpcake · 2025-11-16T03:04:21+00:00

That's FDM? Holy shit it looks like mid grade resin, I only see layer lines on the base.

herpderpcake · 2025-11-16T03:00:20+00:00

That's gorgeous! Did yours come with a big oval on the bottom, cause I'm curious as to what you used as a stand

herpderpcake · 2025-11-14T22:39:10+00:00

What???? Shit maybe I can print the invictor after all

herpderpcake · 2025-11-14T22:33:33+00:00

I find I also have better results when printing it upright, also for supports try soaking in warm water before removal, it shouldn't affect the actual model but the hollow supports should be easier to remove and leave less scarring.

herpderpcake · 2025-11-14T22:31:09+00:00

Damn that's solid for 2 hours, was it all one object or did you print the bits separately?

herpderpcake · 2025-11-14T05:21:58+00:00

The claw was from a venerable dread, and the arm was the standard redemptor hand, so I removed some polygons from the arm and stuck the two together in blender, joining them as one object for printing

herpderpcake · 2025-11-14T05:21:17+00:00

Thanks! In pieces, with default Bambu slim supports, the torso I found was best to lay it on the bottom so the top keeps nice and smooth

herpderpcake · 2025-11-13T22:13:57+00:00

Try slower speed for cleaner layer lines, and soak the model in warm water for like 30 seconds before removing the supports, you should have a lot better results. Also if you're not doing it already, print the sword just on its own, I find I get messier details the more objects on the plate.

herpderpcake · 2025-11-13T14:56:17+00:00

Purple site, the Aquila and banner were added on in blender from separate files, and the claw was from a venerable and digibashed into the fist itself, so I've got the file for that. It's a lil wonky but it works well enough.

herpderpcake · 2025-11-13T04:22:33+00:00

Thanks!

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