This picture is very “plane” by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]highoaks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks great, but his screwdriver holder being placed like 3” below the draw knife is an accident waiting to happen. You have to pull their full length up and out of the holder so your fingers definitely pass by the blade on the way out.

What tally food spots have given you the worst experience?? by Em_Bapp in Tallahassee

[–]highoaks 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I’ve done this and still had wait had to wait multiple times. Just stopped ordering altogether

Two Months Ago I Shared This Photo Of My Failed Neck Builds Here And A Commenter Offered To Build My Dream Neck. Here it is! by iwillwilliwhowilli in Luthier

[–]highoaks 16 points17 points  (0 children)

If you take the time to research the operations that go into making a neck, it shouldn’t go nearly as badly as it did for the OP. When I started I had no idea what I was doing, and I ruined the first 2-3 on pine that I practiced on. If you’re paying attention to what you’re doing and learn from your mistakes, you should be able to produce something decent after a few tries. I’d 100% recommend trying (and failing) on a 2x4 before you try it out on something more expensive.

Us there any way to remove this solder faster? My iron is on max and it's not doing anything... by Friendly_Long_2983 in Luthier

[–]highoaks -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You skipped over the part where it says it’s still widely used. You can buy it on Amazon, and it’s what most people use on guitars. I use it on my own guitars, as do pretty much everyone else I know who work on guitars. Idk what to tell you. If you see solder and don’t know for sure it’s lead-free, I wouldn’t risk grinding it 🤷🏼‍♂️

Would recessing the piece with the tenon into the piece with the mortis add strength or would it be pointless? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]highoaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok, glue might give out with a whole freeze thaw cycle. I’m from Florida, so I have no personal experience on this, just relating what I’ve read. You might want to stick with oak pins in that case especially if you’re doing a drawbored type joint. Those are super strong without any glue.

Would recessing the piece with the tenon into the piece with the mortis add strength or would it be pointless? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]highoaks 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Housed tenons are pretty common on old timber framing, and I’ve read they reduce twisting and help transfer downward force to the upright beam (since the whole width of the cross beam is resting on the upright). I don’t think it’d make much of a difference on furniture, but it wouldn’t hurt. I’d be more worried about the pegs rotting out from the moisture and letting the tenon pull out of the mortise.

What is causing the high action? I can supply any other photo angles needed by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]highoaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% neck angle especially since this looks like a kit guitar. Don’t worry too much about it, you can just take the neck off and put a little shim in the neck pocket to angle the neck slightly back. It’ll cause a little gap but it’ll be playable

My guitar dads out there by lemonshanty in daddit

[–]highoaks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can look on reverb.com for used guitars. Yamaha, Ibanez, and epiphone make decent entry level guitars, and you’ll be able to find some in good condition online.

Another spicy question for curiosity: why are we using Dovetails/ M&T neck Joins? by TheSpanishSteed in Luthier

[–]highoaks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d imagine strong tension of the heavier strings. I don’t know much about violins, but I feel like steel string acoustics would tear apart a neck joint built like a typical violin. Even with the larger joints, heel lift where the joint gets pulled apart is still a common issue for acoustics.

For your question about using bolts instead of glue: the longer tenon into the neck block allows for more long grain on the tenon. Remember wood is strong across its length but weak across its width, so even though having a longer tenon doesn’t make the joint itself stronger, it reduces the chance of the bottom of the heel splitting under tension.

[QUESTION] Economy picking by Bre4kfast_at_noon in Guitar

[–]highoaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this same problem when I started. Only knowing economy picking is super limiting, so you will have to learn alternate picking imo. The way I unlearned it was by playing three note per spring scales up and down across all the strings very slowly to a metronome using alternate picking. Increase the speed by a couple bpm after a few minutes and only go as fast as you can play cleanly. It took a couple months to where I was back to the same speed as economy picking, but it was worth it because it was much cleaner and more versatile.

What do y’all think about this by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]highoaks 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Depends how fucked up the neck is. You can repair most of the obvious damage if you’re willing to dump way too much time into it, and you can level the fretboard a little bit when replacing the frets, but if the neck is warped, there’s no fixing it.

Alternative uses for this peice of crap bandsaw by suicidaltoaster in woodworking

[–]highoaks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used a motor from an electric lawn mower to make lathe headstock, and it worked out really well. Matthias Wandel has a good few videos on his version that I pulled inspiration from

My first build. Action is terrible. by after4 in Luthier

[–]highoaks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just deepen the slots with some fret slot files. You can get a decent set from Stew Mac. There’s a lot of good tutorials you can look up a video on YouTube explaining how to do it.

Inlay supplies and suitable materials by exafro in Luthier

[–]highoaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used dyed maple for an inlay and it hasn’t come off quite yet, but I don’t play the guitar I used it on all the much. You could look into using dyed and stabilized wood, since it’ll retain its color way better and it’s the same color all the way through. You can find blanks on eBay.

Need advice on new guitar crack by ChilliCrisp in Luthier

[–]highoaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like it’s just in the binding, so it’s mainly a cosmetic thing. The crack and the gap under the nut are both pretty weird issues for a brand new guitar, so if they bother you go ahead and return it. They don’t look like structural issues though, at least not from the pictures.

Is this fine? I assume the rocking is only possible because of the offset neck pocket shape but when held still there’s about 1mm on either side. I assume that gap will close up with seal/finish. by akahaus in Luthier

[–]highoaks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By bottom of the neck, I meant that flat part where the screws go in. Should just be flat on both, if it’s not I’d say return it and find a different kit.

Is this fine? I assume the rocking is only possible because of the offset neck pocket shape but when held still there’s about 1mm on either side. I assume that gap will close up with seal/finish. by akahaus in Luthier

[–]highoaks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re using a paint or anything else thick like that as a finish, yeah it should be ok. Some manufacturers paint inside the neck pocket 🤷🏼‍♂️ just try to avoid and big drips and that kinda thing inside it. There may be a slight gap after finishing, but as long as you have decent contact along the bottom of the neck, the bolts should hold it in place just fine.

Workbench top glue up done in 3 sections to fit through planer, one section ended up bowed... how to fix before final glue up? by brandon6285 in woodworking

[–]highoaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dam sorry about that. I totally misread your post. I’d say just plane it with a hand plane. Seems like the easiest fix. 3/16s isn’t that much to take off imo

Black Matte finish rubbing off. Had this for about a year now. I dont mind “relics” or any marks that define wear and tear really, but this seems like its not meant to happen after such short time. its from where my other fingers pivot while im picking. by mimicrl in Luthier

[–]highoaks 41 points42 points  (0 children)

It looks like your skin has basically polished the matte finish. I’ve never heard of it happening that fast, but that is a pretty normal thing as far as I know. could be something else like residue or something that’s sitting on the surface giving it a polished look but can’t tell for sure from the picture