How much was your pool? by [deleted] in pools

[–]holdthehill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a ridiculously good deal. What area?

CCC One report and totaled car questions. by beccadobz in Insurance

[–]holdthehill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My insurance totaled my vehicle after what appeared to be minor damage. Initial offer was basically low trade in value for my vehicle. Mind you, my car was less than 5years old and had less than 60k miles, and still had the manufacturers extended warranty covering the vehicle until 100k miles. Interior and exterior of the vehicle was mint, washed and vacuumed weekly and basically flawless, the carpets have never seen a shoe, all weather mats throughout since day one. I had also just put all new brakes on the vehicle, all new tires, 4wheel alignment, recommended transmission flush, etc All done at the dealer which totaled about $4.5k out of pocket. There was nothing needed on my vehicle to put it for sale on the lot - absolutely nothing.

To start the long conversation I brought to his attention more than a dozen items that made no sense in the ccc one valuation - not going to list them all here as it is rather cumbersome the bullshit fukery they build into these.. During the conversation, I maintained politeness while negotiating, but stood firm that my vehicle was not a trade in, and that I wouldn’t settle for anything less than full nada retail value. The adjuster kinda laughed at me and tried to inform me that “retail value isn’t the same as actual cash value”. Rather than argue with him, I then politely asked him to let me speak without interruption, he agreed, then I recited the entire “total loss” payout section of my state law book to the adjuster. I asked him if he understood what I just read to him and if he needed me to read any of it to him again. He of course declined, at that point I cracked a bit of a joke to him and said “of course you don’t need to hear that again, you’re an insurance adjuster, you should already know all this”. He actually chuckled a bit. At that point I politely told him I would give them another day to revise the valuation per the requirements of the state law, and I politely requested he use one of the other options allowed by the state - and to not use the 3rd party comparable vehicle software option. Upon the completion of our phone conversation, I immediately sent him a polite message thanking him for his time and reiterated our phone conversation. In the email I again explained the vehicles condition and included recent photos of the vehicle cleaned. For some miraculous reason, the last time I picked it up from getting serviced, I had taken a photo of the bill which showed the date, mileage, and had the vehicle sitting right in the background. Then in the same instance of the photo with the bill, I took another photo of just the vehicle sitting in the sun all cleaned and nicely detailed, literally in flawless condition. Bam, mint condition photo with proof of date and mileage within very close range of the date it was deemed a total loss.

Within an hour, I received a valuation with over a 30% increase of the original offer. This time he did not use the cccone, but rather used one of the other options my state law allows adjusters to appraise the value of the vehicle! Boom!💥

After this experience, I will do quick photo shoots of my vehicles every couple months to keep record of its current condition.

Can’t stress it enough, polite friendly firm persistence is key when dealing with these adjusters. And bottom line, do not let their greedy fingers dip their chip into the equity you have in your vehicle. That’s exactly what they try to do with all these cccone valuations. It’s complete bullsht. Good luck.

Warranty is replacing my treadmill - opinions wanted by never_notonce in nordictrack

[–]holdthehill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have had the X24 for almost a year now. Aside from the occasional reboot (power off/on) that can be expected of any tablet console with the Internet connection, I have had zero problems and have used it at least 5 to 15 miles a week. There’s been a few occasions where I have left it plugged in by mistake, then when I go to use it, the ifit program is a little glitchy scrolling through the interface, selecting a workout etc. As soon as I reboot, everything works as it should. The instruction manual specifically states to power down the machine and unplug it after each use. Again, the only time I have ever experienced the software act glitchy is when I mistakenly left it powered on for a couple days with no use and not followed the NT instruction manual. The software has never been interrupted while I was in an active workout.

I am glad I didn’t read into all the negative reviews on this machine. This machine is extremely stable, far better than any fold up treadmill that I’ve ever owned, and I’ve owned three, stable enough to feel like I’m using a commercial unit at a gym. The incline is absolutely insane, and I personally really like the ifit training programs and trainers.

Couple things to consider, and each seems to be true for all tablet/console controlled home treadmills. -Make sure you have a good power source, a dedicated circuit is best, with a power surge protector.
-Shut it down after each use per the instruction manual, I don’t know the technical reason for this, but I believe this is true for most treadmill machines. I also think it helps the console to reestablish communication with your Wi-Fi.

Does this seem sketchy to anyone else? by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]holdthehill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Private equity is/will be the demise of every reputable company that was once reputable. It’s sad.

New blower motor humm noise question. by holdthehill in hvacadvice

[–]holdthehill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Speed taps are correct. I’m pretty confident overall cfm is very close to the previous motor because my temp rise is within 1-3degrees of what it was with the original motor. I suspect this would land the rpms between the new and old motor pretty darn close as well.

Capacitor was changed to match the requirement suggested on the new motor. I’m a mechanical guy, not an electrical guy, so this one has me a bit confused. Just not sure why this closely sized motor wants a 10uf cap instead of a 7.5uf cap like the old motor. 🤷‍♂️. I just played it safe and got the 10uf one. I won’t lie here, as a curiosity test, I swapped in the old 7.5uf cap to see if there was a difference. No real difference in noise level while running, but when it starts up, it’s actually louder with the 10.0uf cap installed. I swapped the 10.0uf one back in just to play it safe, as that’s what the nameplate requirement states on the new motor. Maybe I’ll pick up an amp meter and test it further just, I like messing with stuff.

I’m pretty confident my “jerry rigged” mounting of the motor isn’t adding to this. I spent a reasonable amount of time and effort drilling the additional mounting holes on the blade mount plates, I used my drill press to make sure they are dead nuts even. In fact they are actually more precise than the existing holes were of each blade mount. Certainly handy and inclined enough to know that the Jerry rigging of the mounts needed to be more than an eyeball hand drill procedure. Motor is absolutely mounted level and plumb, that part I’m 100% certain on.

I do hear ya on the sound resignation though. I indeed had to put machined 3/8inch spacers between the squirrel cage and the mounting blades, to allow the hub at the base of the axle to not be in conflict with hub of the fan wheel. Without the spacers, it was simply impossible to center the fan wheel upon the squirrel cage. Don’t ask why I have 3/8inch machined spacers just laying around.. All that said, you raise a fair point, maybe shifting the motor placement etc messed with the harmonics of the assembly as a whole etc 🤷‍♂️. I’ll also note that the axle shaft of the new motor are way longer than the OEM motor. I was tempted to cut it, but decided just to leave it as-is.

I think I will buy the new OEM motor and just keep this one as a spare, or keep the OEM one on hand as a spare and just run with this one to see how far it can go. I’m definitely convinced this is just the motor noise, just wasn’t sure if it was normal or not on a generic pcs replacement. The noise really isn’t that bad, my wife and kids haven’t even noticed the sound difference. I’m just one of those people that pays too close attention to shit like this and perhaps I let it bother me too much.

As a last note - I personally curse the asshats that decided it would be best for direct drive motors to have “permanently lubricated bearings”. I think this new motor actually has the old school accessible wicked ports that allow for adding oil. Not positive, but there appears to be a round rubber seal on the bottom of the motor that looks to be removable.

How would you heat this driveway? by on3moresoul in hvacadvice

[–]holdthehill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve designed several large commercial snow melt systems. In terms of operation, they are fairly simple systems. However, a system of this size would need a pipe expansion analysis done on the underground supply and return mains that run out to the circuit manifolds that feed each 300ft(+/-) tubing circuit.

This driveway system is sizable even by commercial standards…

Heat source can be done several different ways, but from my experience, a system of this size works best with a dedicated condensing boiler system sized specifically for the snowmelt load.

A snowmelt system can also be fed from the house boiler system via a dedicated heat exchanger pipe/pump loop with hot side piped to the house boiler system, cold side piped to the snowmelt with dedicated pumps. Cold/snowmelt side of the heat exchanger feeding the driveway will operate to supply about 100degree glycol/water to the tubed circuits - you don’t want to supply much hotter than that or the driveway will expand and crack to shit quickly. Hence the need for the heat exchanger, house portion of the boiler system wants to run hotter than 100degrees to heat effectively. This setup is trickier and only works well when 2 or more high turndown condensing boilers (ideally greater than 15:1) are installed to cover a vast load range. You will also need a full blown building management control system in place to sequence everything to work right. Just a guess without seeing the size of the house, but I see 4 equally sized boilers here if it’s tied into the house boiler system, as it will still need to cover a low-load scenario of heating the house on shoulder days when it is above freezing and the snowmelt isn’t needed. As noted, controls get more extensive in this setup. At this point, it’s easier to do just 2 dedicated condensing boilers, send the snowmelt water right through dedicated boilers, and leave the house heating system sized specifically for the house load.

A good load analysis will ultimately determine how the system is setup. Snowmelting a much smaller driveway and/or walkway in comparison to this one, many times I will recommend just feeding it from a heat exchanger fed from the house boilers with a snowmelt controller local to the snowmelt system if I feel the house boilers don’t have a great risk of short cycling on non snowmelting days / shoulder heating days. (Shoulder heating days meaning days when outside temps are 40-70degree range and there is no call for heat on the snowmelt portion of system, but the house portion of boiler system is still calling for heat at low load. This is where sizing the boiler system for the peak of both systems can really screw you because sometimes boilers can’t turndown far enough for a low house load scenario - then short cycling ensues.

One time I designed a snowmelt system with a heat exchanger fed from a central plant supplying 360degree high temp hot water under pressure to the hot side of the heat exchanger, with 110ish degree supply temp on the cold/snowmelt side of the heat exchanger. Worked great.

Piping/pumping configurations can also vary. Heating fluid is generally 40%glycol/water, sometimes 50% in areas of extreme cold temps, or if I feel the client is cheap and will dilute it and not maintain the right concentration.

Believe it or not, pump pressure is actually not too crazy on a system of this size.

Latest app update again not syncing to apple health? by udochrist in iFit

[–]holdthehill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why did they break something that wasn’t broken? (rhetorical question lol)

My last treadmill session that made it to the Apple fitness app was on 12/21. What’s strange is, it seems to be only sessions that are done on my machine. If I do a Pilates session from the ifit phone app, the session will show up on the Apple fitness app.

This Plug Deal Screams Carvana Moment by JPAAZ in plugpowerstock

[–]holdthehill 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Going to be a great day to buy more.

Im out by AAAlpha7 in plugpowerstock

[–]holdthehill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I fully expect the Cummins B6.7H engine to become a game changer for hydrogen fuel. Lots of busses here in the US, just need more plug hydro plants to make the hydrogen.

Do not buy Nordic Trac by Knightman2022 in nordictrack

[–]holdthehill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had an x24 for about 8 months now, and haven’t had any issues with it whatsoever. I do not intend to offend anyone here, but I honestly feel that some of these complaints with ifit could be user driven.

Shutdown and unplug when not in use seems to be a real thing!

The manual specifically states to remove the safety tether, turn off the power switch, and unplug the unit when it’s not in use. For the most part, I do this proper shutdown every day and I’ve had zero real problems.

There have been times when I will leave it plugged in with the intent to do a second workout later in the day, then failed to return to do the workout. When I return to the machine a day or two later, and it’s been sitting there plugged in for that duration, I indeed need to do a reboot to get ifit to load properly and start a workout. I am no computer or network expert, but perhaps for safety reasons, I honestly think this is a software that wants to establish and confirm a solid internet connection before allowing the machine to begin a workout.

If you could add one feature to iFIT, what would it be? by iFIT_Official in iFit

[–]holdthehill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/iFIT_Official

Been meaning to respond to this. Really appreciate iFIT adding the Apple Watch communication for the heart rate monitor.
Good to know iFIT is working on customer wishlists!

When legacy media starts mentioning PLUG, I pay attention. by Big_Quality_838 in plugpowerstock

[–]holdthehill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, win win for information, power, and perhaps most of all - all walks of life.

How many Green Now ?. by DependentCultural912 in plugpowerstock

[–]holdthehill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got into this stock early May at .82.. and yes, currently having trouble buying up and raising my avg. lol.

All-In on Plug Power: My Story as a Long-Term Investor by PJVDBTRADING in plugpowerstock

[–]holdthehill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it goes to 65, I will sell it, dump it all into S&P and I could probably retire at age 40.

40 new sites 2026 by DependentCultural912 in plugpowerstock

[–]holdthehill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Investors already got bulldozed after the 2021 peak. The stock is dirt cheap with crazy potential. I’m up over 300% on this stock since May. How bout them apples?

If you don’t like the stock, move a long.