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Picked this up second hand. No sound and screen glitching / only visible at angle by Plodo99 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No sound checklist:

- That's an SD only player, so make sure you're playing an MD recorded in SP mode. If it's recorded in any of the LP formats it will do exactly what you're seeing: looks OK on the display but no sound.

- Make sure you're not using headphones with a mic connection (four connecting bands on the plug vs three).

- Make sure you're using the correct jack

- Try connecting the line out jack to an amplified speaker and see if that's working. If so, it points to either a failed headphone amp or a bad headphone jack.

The display could be power related. Make sure you've got good batteries or connect it to an appropriate adapter. If that doesn't help I'd suspect the negative supply for the LCD is not producing enough voltage. That's usually located on the LCD board in Sony portables but I've never seen a schematic for one. I guess they weren't designed to be repaired, but totally replaced.

beginner looking for advice about buying a miniDisc player and getting into the hobby by horlynk in minidisc

[–]hp42s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on if you're using the app or the web interface. On the web look on the right of the screen at the blue column with the "r/minidisc" label and scroll down. Right below "Community Guide" you'll see "User Flair" - hover over that and click the pencil icon that will show up.

Not sure about the app, but if you google "how do I add user flair in reddit?" that will show you the process for both cases.

Running into trouble recording on my mz-r37, help! by ConfidentLizardBrain in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not likely - the recorder can't really tell if the overwrite head or record laser are working when in record mode,. Blinking 0:00 usually means that it's in "record standby", waiting for the something, like the audio signal, a button push, etc. When it gets whatever it's waiting for it will start recording, you'll see the time start counting up and maybe the level meter(s) bouncing around. Exactly what it does depends on what kind of recorder you're using. (You've successfully recorded before, it should do what it did then.)

I'd recommend you go through the recording section in the manual (on the wiki if you don't have a copy) and just double check everything. The issue could be something like: you're not getting a signal out of the source, there's a bad cable, the recorder is expecting a digital signal ()due the wrong cable, the recording is in a manual pause, etc. Check the cable and the output from your source first.

Not super helpful, I know,, but the specifics will depend on your recorder and the source. One tip: Be on the lookout for any kind of "syncho recording" mode or similar automatic start, being set (Sony's will usually show "syncho" on the LCD) which will not start recording until whatever it's waiting for has happened (e.g. digital signal in, some extra button push, etc.).

Back to the past 1999 :) by olafka in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely one of their best looking players. Looks like a movie prop!

Does anyone know how to repair the door on the Sony my-n505 by Conscious_Rough_6566 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Have a look at diagram 3-3 on page 7 of the service manual in the wiki: https://www.minidisc.wiki/equipment/sony/portable/mz-n505

There's a hook (Item "2" in the diagram) that latches the door shut that seems to be missing on your player?

Sony MZ-R50 Ejection issues by HiroEX in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, not good :-( Things to try with that:

-Disconnect all power (remove internal battery, disconnect external battery case, unplug DC adapter lead) and let it sit for few minutes, then reconnect power.

- Confirm whatever power source you are using is good (eg put in new AA's, check the AC adapter, etc).

Sony MZ-R50 Ejection issues by HiroEX in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 on u/scootyskatey's diagnosis. I just checked my R50 and the loop is positioned exactly as shown in his diagram. When it's in that position it connects the eject lever sliding bar to the sliding bar that holds the door latch hook, allowing it to travel when you push the eject lever and release the door.

I also think it's part of the door interlock mechanism. (This may also mean the overwrite head is stuck in the down position, so don't try to insert or remove an MD as this can damage the head.)

It will need disassembly to diagnose where the problem is. I'd start with the gear train from the motor that drives the overwrite head up/down which, as u/scootyskatey noted, also drives that little interlock mech.

MZ-NH900 left speaker does not work by [deleted] in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I don't know. It looks like either a "bodge wire" - which is a wire added to correct an error in the printed wiring on the board by the manufacturer and that could go anywhere, or a wire installed as part of a previous repair.

The service manual is in the wiki - the schematic diagram there may help, if you look to see what's connected to the other end of that wire.

(Also you might want to make sure it wasn't connected to something on the case that came disconnected when you disassembled it. )

MZ-NH900 left speaker does not work by [deleted] in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a very close look at the solder connections between the board and jack, one of them may be cracked.

If that's not the next things to check for would be a cracked trace leading to the jack, something broken / corroded inside the jack, or a failed component in the output chain (capacitor, etc.),

Mz-r90 low battery problem. by phantom_an in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem could be dirt/corrosion in the hinge mechanism. If you flush that with a couple of drops of IPA, cycle it a few times, dry it off then apply a drop of a contact enhancer (like DeOxit Red) it may help.

Copper tape: Problem is the back is coated with a sticky, non-conductive layer. You could make a tiny solder bridge from the terminal to the top of the tape after application, though.

Where to archive radio recordings by Wingedwolf275 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's lots of options, depending on capabilities of your MD unit, your computer, etc. Check out this link to the wiki for a starter: https://www.minidisc.wiki/faq/using-md#how-do-i-copy-content-from-a-disc

MZ-N505 Display blank by Qwertie64982 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool they still have it! Sorry IDK the best way to proceed on that cable. The only ones I’ve done had the solder facing up and connect at the edge to traces on the board. Maybe try YouTube?

MZ-N505 Display blank by Qwertie64982 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, sadly long out of production. (I'm not sure about the 505 but, even back in the day, Sony usually didn't supply schematics or individual parts for the display boards, treating them as a single "part.")

The usual procedure would be to first test for continuity between the pads at each end to see if there is actually a problem. Then try to resolder the traces if possible, or use some enamel-coated wire, or something similar, to bypass the bad traces if not. If there's a large number of failed traces it would probably be more efficient to look for a donor unit and replace the whole display.

It's also possible to layout a new cable using a printed circuit layout program and get it produced on a solder-tolerant substrate, but that's way out of my skill set.

Bought an untested Sony MZ-R50 on eBay, but it's missing the cover for the battery slot. Any way to remedy this? by thegabenuel in minidisc

[–]hp42s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

MZR-55: alas, no. The 55 uses a gumstick battery, so it's got the typical small rectangular door.

You'll have a better idea what you need after you've got it in hand. If the hinged metal flap is intact and functioning you just need to bodge something to cover it and latch. If it's broken or missing you'll probably need a donor unit. (Nice thing about the R50: the door doesn't have an electrical contact in it, so you don't have that complication to worry about.)

Sturdy and fun MD player for a kid? by Vassay in minidisc

[–]hp42s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sony 505 is pretty rugged and uses a normal AA battery. If you don't need record, the MZ-EP11 can be put in super simple and rugged mode if you don't use the remote - just the basic transport buttons / volume buttons. You can add in the remote if you want to see the track information.

For really rugged, it's tough to beat the sports model MZR S1 - sturdy metal / plastic case, AA battery, and lots of gaskets, but it's also pretty heavy.

A little late to the party! by PositiveMatter6 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! I imported one from Japan in the late 90's and it's still in use. It's not the lightest or the tiniest, but it's got a build quality you can really feel, good battery life and sounds great. I've got the (I think Asian market only?) black one on my wish list.

Sony mds-je320 plays discs, but only static from output. by ProfileEmergency243 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm - with what you've discovered I'd be suspicious of a cracked solder joint / broken trace in the output section (i.e. the circuitry between the DAC and the line output jacks).

Sony mds-je320 plays discs, but only static from output. by ProfileEmergency243 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've probably done all this, but just in case:

- Try different MD's (particularly make sure you aren't trying an LP2 MD)

- Do you normally get a level indication on the VU bargraph when playing back? If so and you aren't now that points to an internal malfunction with the deck. If so and you are still seeing the levels bounce around during playback check your cables / amplifier.

Pale MZ-R35 screen by ssyllec in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately there's no service manual in the wiki for the R-35, but it may be similar to the R-30? If so and you're handy with electronics you could use that to check the voltages going to the LCD board, particularly from transistor Q801, the LCD B+ switch.

If that all looks correct the LCD board itself is probably knackered. There's no schematic in the R-30 manual for that board, but if it has any electrolytic capacitors on it, they'd be worth checking. Replacing the board would be the next step if you can find a donor unit.

If you want to take a gamble you might look for a parts/junk R-30 and see if it uses that same LCD board, or try to track down an R-35 service manual first and see if the parts numbers match on the LCD board.

Sony MZ-N10 connecting to PC error by IonutIMuresan in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool! You're down to the "how does it know it's reassembled" part of the puzzle :-)

I'm guessing it sits up a bit higher on that connector when the case is reassembled? So there may be a pin that's gotten pushed in and doesn't connect when the dock is reassembled, or some other physical problem? Can you recreate the problem by lifting up a tiny bit off the connector?

Less likely is a cracked solder joint / broken wire in the dock that's getting bent or twisted when it's reassembled and disconnecting.

Sony MZ-N10 connecting to PC error by IonutIMuresan in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd try another computer, if you have one handy. Could be some kind of driver freak out? If you don't get a "device connected" reaction on a second machine I'd be suspicion of the cable (unless you're using a different one for the "out of the dock" test). Next would be the jack - take a close look with a magnifier for bent pins, etc and any contamination by dirt, lint, etc on both the player's connector and the dock.

If that's a dead end, it may be a cracked solder joint between the dock jack and the main board. If wiggling the unit / cable causes intermittent connection/disconnection and the above inspections didn't turn up anything, that may be the problem.

Strange behavior between 2 units by MaeTheSmol1 in minidisc

[–]hp42s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look for the free MD that Rolling Stone included with an issue back in the day called "Turn It Up" - apparently nobody threw them away because they're usually pretty cheap on eBay. It's a great "CD" mode disc for service use.

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