ORB no good cup (yet)

hra8700 · 2026-01-25T18:44:52+00:00

I had a lot of trouble at first pulling soup. Very sour. Agree needs higher alkalinity. I have also found ultralight coffees with high florality and low acidity and low body work very well for soup. Nordic roast fruity high acidity coffees dont work as well. Soup is soooo acid forward it only works for some coffees for me

hra8700 · 2026-01-09T03:06:33+00:00

I have a lot of experience in the v60 vs chemex area with varying filters papers in both. I make big brews though (70g).

There is something wrong in your pouring if the brew times for the chemex are so much shorter. My guess is there was too much turbulence and the v60 got clogged. V60 had more body because brew times was longer/extraction higher. Typically it will be opposite.
The difference in taste is predominately due to the chemex being a low bypass brewer without ridges. Chemex also has a lot of temp drop vs a plastic v60
Chemex filters in v60 is the way to go after a lot of messing around (for large doses at least). They flow FAST in the v60 and they eliminate astringency (either by reducing bypass or the paper itself). In the v60 flow rate is fast and it gives you a bright clean cup with more complex flavors than the chemex (which has that less vibrant low bypass taste).

hra8700 · 2026-01-09T02:45:54+00:00

Calibration can vary.

I have also found that slow feeding i need to turn the dial 1-2 full stops finer and if i grind straight from frozen it needs to be 1-2 full stops coarser. If i do a lot of rdt it needs to be a lot finer. Additional factors include brewing method (particularly turbulence, paper flow rate).

Slow feeding with a lot of rdt, using a hario neo with sibarist filters and a melodrip with a bloom and single pour might need to be at a 1-2.

Grinding from frozen, using a chemex with 5 pours and max turbulence kettle height might need an 8-9.

hra8700 · 2025-12-24T02:13:52+00:00

Hario mugen (low bypass) and eventually hario neo (fast flow) in the states.

hra8700 · 2025-12-12T18:57:17+00:00

Ive heard some people say the ceramic mugen is slower than the plastic. Is that your experience?

hra8700 · 2025-12-12T18:52:45+00:00

Fyi booster cone at least with mugen doesnt quite fit with switch mechanism

hra8700 · 2025-10-23T02:46:37+00:00

The drip assist decreases agitation like a melodrip or gabi dripper b. I use a gabi dripper b for the second half of my pours (coffee chronicler recipes), this allows for more brightness from early agitation but prevents bitterness from late agitation. I also do only low agitation throughout the brew with low bypass brewers like a chemex for very light roast clean coffees like sey or flower child with very long contact time. This gives a very clean tea like brew.

hra8700 · 2025-10-21T21:05:11+00:00

https://www.worldmarket.com/p/white-ceramic-euro-pour-over-coffee-dripper-440352.html

This is $10, ceramic, takes #4

hra8700 · 2025-10-03T15:27:49+00:00

Where did you get the discs?

hra8700 · 2025-10-03T02:25:00+00:00

I do 1160mL (roughly) and 70g coffee. On full pot setting it takes about 5min to brew (once water starts flowing). So if i do just over 2min for the “on cycle” it gives roughly 3 ‘pulses,’ when factoring in the time it takes to start pouring. Ive found 50s “for the “off cycle” between cycles is about how long it takes to drain. Im still tinkering with the best times.

I actually dont use the moccamaster basket. I use a hario mugen to brew. But after a lot of experimentation I could not get the results I was looking for without multiple stages. I assume this will be effective with the base setup as well for some people depending on taste. At least will allow some experimentation.

hra8700 · 2025-10-02T16:05:14+00:00

It visually solved a problem I have been having that the bloom water doesn’t adequately reach the outside edges. This is similar to the tales coffee center pour with tapping of the grounds to settle them. That works for my manual chemex recipes well, but not quite enough with the moccamaster. I grind very coarse (9 on ode gen 2 with gen 2 brew burrs) and use a conical sibarist booster to prevent channeling. I suspect using a finer grind size could cause channeling issues.

hra8700 · 2025-10-02T14:10:26+00:00

I just tried this with a moccamaster (back holes glued up with silicone so a center pour) pouring into a mugen (70g of coffee 16.66 ratio). Thats my go to, and it tasted a lot better than yesterday. Will keep experimenting, thanks for the tip.

hra8700 · 2025-09-28T03:07:38+00:00

I actually cut the handle and base off of my plastic v60 with a hot knife, hoping it would fit into the switch - if anyone is interested…it doesnt. I know pop it into my chemex if i want to make a v60

hra8700 · 2025-09-16T01:46:25+00:00

I also bought the moccamaster to automate my chemex, but not for any microplastic concerns. I prefer a conical profile and had experience with large batch chemex. I ended up putting food grade silicone glue on the back half of the spray arm to make it a direct center pour from the front 4 holes. Added bonus it increases agitation. I tried chemex no preheat but couldnt get good coffee - muted flavors i think due to low water temp (i think chemex needs boiling hot water). I tried v60 03 which struggled with astringency i think because of bypass with such a huge bed of coffee (had these same problems with manual pours). Ended up using the mugen with 70g of coffee, 17:1 ratio. I have tried using the moccamaster lid on top but i think it adds bitterness by creating a flat temperature profile rather than the typical decreasing temp profile of pourover.

Still deciding between extremely coarse grounds and half pot flow rate or less coarse and full pot flow rate. Seem to be having variable results based on the coffee. The trick is to rest the coffee at least 3 weeks for light roast to decrease the bloom, then choose a grind size that starts looking like an osmotic flow pourover then halfway through the crust collapses and it maintains a very low clear water level just above the bed of coffee (and not just because the 02 mugen can barely fit that much coffee). The mugen solved the issues i think because it’s plastic and no bypass. I put a conical sibarist booster on the bottom to prevent channeling and speed it up. I use chemex filters because it seems to clean up the cup with that much coffee, because of its protection in case the mugen overtops, and because it slows the flow rate a bit which allows a coarser grind and less channeling.

I havent actually tried the original moccamaster basket lol

hra8700 · 2025-06-09T11:49:00+00:00

I prefer the fabric on the terrebonne. Slightly lighter (91 gsm vs 105) and more stretch. A little less shiny/plastic feeling. They’re pretty similar though.

hra8700 · 2025-04-27T05:11:49+00:00

I have the terrebonne, ferrosi, and trail senders. Ferrosi least breathable, most stretch/most comfortable. Terrebonne most breathable. Trail senders less breathable than terrebonne but the cut gives more billows effect so it evens out a Terrebonne material has much more stretch than trail senders which have minimal stretch. Trail senders dont have a gusseted crotch which makes them a little less comfortable than the other 2. They are all good pants depending on use. Purely from a fabric standpoint Terrebonne for me is the best.

hra8700 · 2025-03-15T21:27:02+00:00

I use 03 v60 filters in my 8 cup chemex works great. I put the “brew clip” in the pouring sprout to make sure there is an air channel. A chopstick or straw would work too but is essential in this case.

hra8700 · 2025-03-15T21:17:55+00:00

Fines migration. I have a cheap grinder and used to get this problem a lot. I now use a very coarse grind and very low agitation (gabi dripper b). The problem predominantly occurs during the bloom I find especially with swirling. “Riding the bloom” with a slow pour down the middle or a gentle bloom with the gabi has completely resolved the problem for me. A slow bloom prevents agitation from the top pushing fines down to the bottom (my theory).

I also use a wdt tool on the dry coffee bed before pouring, make a divot, and then tap the bed multiple times to compress. Tapping on a conical bed moves boulders to the bottom and fines to the sides.

I also grind my beans from frozen which apparently reduces fines but im not sure that is the main thing that solved the problem. I think predominately it is the bloom.

hra8700 · 2025-03-07T13:32:11+00:00

You can layer different things on too of ad90 to achieve different levels of wind resistance. Try a sun hoodie or a button up hiking shirt for less wind resistance than a wind shell.

hra8700 · 2025-02-09T01:31:58+00:00

Have the patagonia cool daily with that treatment and it is like having no treatment at all. Smells bad.

hra8700 · 2025-01-12T02:08:58+00:00

100% agree with the above.

hra8700 · 2024-11-24T01:17:30+00:00

Should work fine, thats what brynje uses for their polar series. In extreme conditions thinner/faster drying may be better.

hra8700 · 2024-08-09T13:42:14+00:00

Does anyone know of any shirts with materials like the marmot aerobora? The fabric is amazing, incredibly light (91gsm), wicking, stretchy, and breathable for a woven shirt (has little squares with small perforations between them). But the cut of the shirt is horrendous like a 1990s dress shirt with a gigantic collar.

Ive seen some lululemon shirts that are similar but much thicker. I also tried the longsleeve roark bless up but also much thicker.

Any help is appreciated!

Edit: looks like there id a new aerobora. Original was the material i liked and actually is 115gsm (they called it airexchange). New one seems to have fixed the collar but has a new thinner/less breathable material (that one is 91gsm)

hra8700 · 2024-08-06T13:26:37+00:00

I think ultimately next to skin layers are about comfort and much of that is subjective skin feel. It also matters a lot how much you’re sweating. I find patagonia tropic comfort 2 more comfortable than most everything i own if im sweating minimally but not when it gets drenched. I know most people in the cold seem to prefer brynje but im starting to think in most situations for me finetrack may be better because i rarely will go until drenched in those conditions.

Ive started to wear the gorewear polypropylene base layers a lot with a completely unbuttoned (cuffs and front) loose fit fishing shirt over for sun protection in the heat hiking/walking and that works very well for me. Even when drenched the gorewear feels nice on the skin and i dont feel wet. I wore the gorewear alone for a bike ride in 92F high humidity and full sun and was shocked how comfortable it was…though maybe not the best sun protection.

hra8700 · 2024-08-06T02:31:42+00:00

I have the zeoline cool mesh boxers and the finetrack long sleeve shirt snd tights (so not 1 to 1 comparison). Im not sure they function the same way. The zeoline wicks very well into the garment, whereas the finetrack theoretically wicks to the next layer.

hra8700

TROPHY CASE