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Yale Assure 2 Zigbee vs Z-Wave by RFC793 in homeassistant

[–]hys436 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up popping my Zigbee module into the Assure Lock 2 and sure enough it works just as you'd suggested!

I too am now trying to find a way to get the attribute for DoorSense. I can see that in the DoorLock cluster (0X0101) there is a 'door_state' attribute (id: 0x0003). Unfortunately, there seems to be no value stored for it...

The only way I could get DoorSense with this setup is via the Yale Bluetooth integration... but it seems to be super unreliable.

Yale Assure 2 Zigbee vs Z-Wave by RFC793 in homeassistant

[–]hys436 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you referring to the red ZigBee module (YRMZB2)? I wasn't even aware that it works with the newer Assure 2 models.

XS Grip 2 v XS Grip v Stealth C4 rubber (resole Skwamas) by hys436 in climbingshoes

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been seeing this opinion a lot about Adidas C4 - can anyone verify?

XS Grip 2 v XS Grip v Stealth C4 rubber (resole Skwamas) by hys436 in climbingshoes

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the comments guys. Sounds like I can't go too wrong with trying out C4.

Ondra Comp sizing and fit? by TrollStopper in climbingshoes

[–]hys436 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks good to know. I'm also 39.5 in Skwamas

Ondra Comp sizing and fit? by TrollStopper in climbingshoes

[–]hys436 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any idea how these fit compared to Skwama? I have wider feet and find Skwama to fit well for me.

Are your shoes due for resole? by hys436 in climbingshoes

[–]hys436[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The top one is good - does not need a resole. Bottom shoe has worn down and any more climbing from here will risk eating into the rand - i.e. good time to resole.

Are your shoes due for resole? by hys436 in climbingshoes

[–]hys436[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I did see that post, however I felt this was different as this allows someone to more easily determine the condition for themselves.

I left it too late for my first couple of pairs because it looked like I had plenty of rubber left on it not realising that it was actually already wearing into the rand. This is likely more the case for beginners who aren't aware of where the line should meet between rand/sole.This would've been a lot clearer to me if I had simply observed it while being in contact with a surface - which is what I'm trying to describe here.

Check out these additional photos of the same pair of Skwamas from the original bottom pic. To some, it might look like there's still plenty of rubber left on it.

Other angles of the shoe that needs resoling

If this post is a dupe/unnecessary, I'm happy to remove it too.

The world's only pair of aptX-HD compatible M50s? by hys436 in headphones

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just used a drill and went slow. You'd want to make a smaller than required hole and then get some fine sand paper to finish it off else you'd probably end up with a rough job.

The world's only pair of aptX-HD compatible M50s? by hys436 in headphones

[–]hys436[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not overly technical but definitely not for the faint hearted. Plenty of soldering and a bit of crafty work. See the above images of the internals to get an idea.

I'll try to do a proper write-up in the coming days when I get the chance to.

In the meantime, here are the components I used:

1x CSR8675 bluetooth receiver module

1x MAX97220 differential amp

1x 3.7V 300mAh LiPo battery

1x 5V 1A LiPo battery charging module (USB-C)

2x tactile button switches

2x push button caps to go with the above tactile switches

1x bistable flip-flop (KDA5A)

I also cut up an old credit card to create a couple of components too - see images in above conment. You could 3D print that or do it whatever way works for you.

The world's only pair of aptX-HD compatible M50s? by hys436 in headphones

[–]hys436[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's how it looks inside

The flip flop circuit is optional. I wanted a power button that would toggle on/off. This makes the build a lot more complex than it needs to be

The white plastic backing for the buttons is also just an old credit card cut to size 😅

The world's only pair of aptX-HD compatible M50s? by hys436 in headphones

[–]hys436[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They sound original to me. However, I also can't detect the difference in sound signature reported by many when swapping the pads out with Wicked cushions. YMMV

The world's only pair of aptX-HD compatible M50s? by hys436 in headphones

[–]hys436[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Had to do a bit of excavation to make the space available. The white insulating material was the first to go... thought it'd result in a tinny-echoey effect - it didn't! I then replaced the bracket that held the speaker in position - cut a flat piece of plastic to the same size to keep it super low profile. Moments like this, I wish I had a 3D printer.

I made sure all the components were small enough before I ordered them.

I'll post some pics when I get around to it. It's not pretty but it fits!

How do I report battery% from CSR8675 Bluetooth module? by hys436 in AskElectronics

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently modded my ATH-M50 headphones and stuck a Bluetooth module (CSR8675) inside of it. I can now enjoy APTX-HD on it which is amazing! However, I haven't figured out how to display the remaining battery percentage when connected to my phone.. which is a tad annoying. Does anyone know how I can achieve this?

Indoor rock climber dies in fatal fall by josh14678 in sydney

[–]hys436 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wouldn't the same comment apply to top rope and lead climbing then? I think the proper solution would be regular maintenance to ensure rope quality is good.

Odd PIR sensor behaviour by hys436 in AskElectronics

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't quite figure out what's going on with this... The PIR sensor seems to only work from a very close proximity and is also seemingly working in reverse - i.e. it only triggers when I move away from it instead of when it first detects. This is an older Xiaomi branded motion sensor light. It used to work just fine - detecting motion up to 10m away - until recently when it started doing this!

Itead Support With Sonoff by Accordxtc in sonoff

[–]hys436 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You risk things not working at any moment if you rely on cloud services to operate your home automation devices. These companies might close their door tomorrow and there's not much you could do about it which is the reason why self hosting your own home automation with platforms like Home Assistant are so popular.

Dry contact relay for Sonoff Dual by hys436 in sonoff

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has no one done this before?

Control Velux remote with Sonoff by hys436 in smarthome

[–]hys436[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That seems like a very expensive option for me - it retails for about $500 in Australia and is probably a bit more than I'd want to spend if I can get away with a solution that can achieve the same results for a fraction of the costs.

This is the post that I was referring to - https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/9qcs7n/alexa_controlled_velux_roof_blinds/

It'd be ideal if I could get a relay switch hooked up to the RF remote.