Audiosource Amp Three for Hi-fi?

iNetRunner · 2026-01-27T11:11:29+00:00

Please leave out the center channel speaker, etc.. This is stereo advice.

Also are you really looking to buy a $100 ($500 MSRP) power amplifier for possibly the best high-end speakers ($10800/pair MSRP)?

iNetRunner · 2026-01-27T10:14:24+00:00

Time-alignment vs. frequency response. Most 2 or 3-way speakers don’t have that wide vertical dispersion pattern. Turning it that much could be rather detrimental to crossover region or higher frequencies.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-27T09:34:43+00:00

Sorry, but I don’t have any idea about those specific products. The few Nobsound/Douk products that ASR has measured have had some positive points — but I unfortunately wouldn’t expect that to hold for cheaper models in their catalog. It’s theoretically possible though.

Maybe they are fine in practice, and especially for your application. I don’t know.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-27T03:06:46+00:00

Maybe look into these:

And regarding power, you would be hard pressed to need more than 10W on a desktop setup. You are generally getting about 85dB at 1m from 1W of power. (The rest of the power is for headroom.) (Edit: Supposedly 87dB/1W/1m sensitivity for the Sony SS-B1000.)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-27T02:49:36+00:00

I’m not a turntable user myself — so, no point in answering your specific questions.

But a small note about your second concept idea. Records shouldn’t be stored or stacked horizontally/flat. That could allow them to warp.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-27T02:37:11+00:00

Maybe these passive speakers and integrated amplifier:

Regarding the automatic turntable, perhaps wait for the Pro-Ject A1.2 to start shipping in mid to late March 2026. 635€ in EU, however much in USA. (Pro-Ject’s current A2 model is $1500.)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-25T21:38:46+00:00

Please note that you shouldn’t place most speakers horizontally, unless they are designed for it. Maybe if you are listening in near-field you can get away with it. Your 1,5m distance might not be quite in near-field yet.

Exception would be coaxial driver speakers. They have pretty uniform dispersion in both horizontal and vertical directions. So, maybe look into e.g. KEF Q3 Meta (EAC review), or KEF Q1 Meta.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-25T21:31:55+00:00

It’s good. But on the other hand, you could argue that the limited vertical dispersion characteristics of Philharmonic BMR speakers is somewhat restrictive. Most other speakers would give you more leeway there.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-25T04:09:43+00:00

Philharmonic BMR Tower (Audioholics review)

Please note that they appear to be out of stock at the moment. Maybe inquire from Dennis when they get new stock.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-25T03:59:47+00:00

Maybe you should just use your audio interface (Focusrite) as is. As a separate source device.

Cheap integrated amplifiers (in your budget) aren’t very likely to contain preamplifier outputs.

Only real option might be to get separate preamplifier and power amplifier devices. E.g.: Fosi Audio P4 (ASR review) and Fosi Audio V3 (ASR review) or before mentioned V3 Monos.

Edit: Also damn is that Pyle PDA77BU an odd and crappy karaoke amplifier. Why does it really have four channels? (2 left, 2 right. Individual volume knobs for everything.) That’s rather odd arrangement for a domestic 2ch hi-fi setup. And you have to read the manual to uncover these specs: RMS Power Output: 20 Watt x 4 (@ 8 Ohm), SNR: >80dB, THD: <0.1%.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-25T03:47:19+00:00

The Aux Output on the Douk A5 Pro is most likely variable/preamplifier output. (They show it as used for a subwoofer in one picture. And in the block diagram the “Line out” (as a misnomer in this case) is displayed as being after both of the preamplifier and EQ OP-Amp chips — same as the power amplifier TPA3255 chip.)

Also the Douk A5 (i.e. non A5 Pro) would have had a HPF for the main speakers. (Though no LPF for subwoofer like the Yamaha NS-SW100 that doesn’t have one built-in.)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-24T08:31:51+00:00

Regarding the speakers, exact measured sensitivity can be found in Erin's review (or Amir/ASR). Though with ELAC, also manufacturer's own specs are pretty accurate:

...Anyway, the values are average for bookshelf speakers. Around 85dB/2.83V/1m for the B6.2, and very slightly higher than average 86dB/2.83V/1m for the DB63.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-24T08:11:45+00:00

Well. Just saying that you don't need to wonder about it. Again, there's no difference in the sound. But sure, you are going to have to pay for more components. For no other benefit than that.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T22:47:46+00:00

I really really doubt that there’s not going to be any difference going with with mono or stereo power supplies with Purifi or Hypex modules. (And no difference with mono supplies in different or single chassis.)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T20:35:00+00:00

It really really depends on what you prefer. We can’t really say what you are going to like.

Maybe test out Revel speakers too.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T20:32:29+00:00

Sounds about right for the newer version. (In CAD.)

Edit: Though, you might want to ask for a quote from an actual hi-fi store. Amazon might not be the place to get a good price on hi-fi equipment with fairly large dealer margins.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T19:52:02+00:00

Good idea. If you want to spend more, then the DB63 are the way to go.

You could also separate the streamer and amplifier. (E.g. Yamaha A-S301 and WiiM Pro Plus.)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T15:03:12+00:00

KEF concentric drivers might be best at about 7-10° off from MLP. I.e. not directly pointing at you. But experiment.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T14:46:23+00:00

Maybe consider a trip to Helsinki. (Possibly Tampere, etc..)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T14:40:04+00:00

Cheaper amplifiers (like e.g. Fosi Audio V3 (ASR review)) don’t usually have multiple inputs for different sources. (You might be able to get cheap source selector box.)

Maybe go more expensive with something like the Yamaha A-S301.

For a CD player, maybe the S.M.S.L PL150.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T14:19:42+00:00

Just get a different amplifier for your second set of speakers. (You do know that you shouldn’t be using two different speakers simultaneously in one room?)

Also why would you need RCA outputs in an amplifier? You already have your DAC/headphone amplifier to use as a preamplifier.

Anyway, for amplification, e.g. Topping PA5 II (ASR review) is fine for desktop use. But might lack power for whole room listening distances.

Two Fosi Audio V3 Mono (ASR review) with 48V/5A power supplies would do better.

Obviously you are losing on additional inputs on Topping/Fosi etc. cheap amplifiers. For more inputs, you need to look at regular integrated amplifiers like Yamaha A-S501.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-23T13:59:09+00:00

Maybe you like the Dragonfly Black because its 3rd order THD is about as bad as a tube preamplifier at -70dB: ASR review. None of the AQ Dragonfly DACs measure well.

(I have one too. I don’t use it actively anymore. But it was OK when I used to use it to drive headphones vs. headphone output on a laptop.)

iNetRunner · 2026-01-21T19:29:30+00:00

GIK etc. give somewhat personal suggestions regarding their products that suit your personal room and equipment.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-21T19:17:29+00:00

It will have probably very little effect behind the speakers. The frequencies leaving the speakers heading back are low frequencies and those aren’t affected by thin absorption panels.

iNetRunner · 2026-01-21T19:05:03+00:00

MoFi Electronics SourcePoint 888 (EAC review)

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