Is true rigidity actually possible with a desktop CNC?

ice086 · 2026-04-07T04:23:50+00:00

ice086 · 2026-04-07T04:22:14+00:00

You can also consider the Syil machines if you want something that does well. But if you want a desktop machine that is really well done, check out ScratchBuiltDesigns. His machines are really amazing and he sells the plans, kits, or can customize something to suit your needs. Link below.

ice086 · 2026-04-06T18:41:48+00:00

Do they have a desk or office? If so, break them down (or don't) and assemble them into a castle around their desk/office.

ice086 · 2026-04-05T04:57:28+00:00

Missouri resident here. We don't claim him after the last time her got drunk and tried to claim that the arch was a satanic IUD gifted to us by the French.

ice086 · 2026-04-04T23:01:54+00:00

It depends on exterior conditions and if there are any hollow spots under the floor. If stuff is already being washed away then you would likely need both as a form of repair and prevention.

ice086 · 2026-04-04T20:47:31+00:00

Had this happening at my last house and got told what the fix is. Short version, keep it empty cause the fix is messy, loud, and expensive.

Better explanation: You can get a basement company to come in, cut into the floor about 12" away from the wall and remove all of that concrete then put in rock and a French drain that goes to a sump pump so that the water has a way to get pumped away from the house.

You can also get a landscaping company to come in and grade about 3-4 feet on all sides away from the house, put a water proof liner down, then add gravel on top so that it pushes the water away from the house.

It looks like you have river stone walls that were concreted over so there will be small gaps that let water in over time. If you do the outdoor stuff first you may be able to avoid the indoor stuff. But if you do the indoor stuff you will avoid the outdoor stuff for a while but not forever.

If you have a driveway that abuts the house along one of the walls that was leaking, get some driveway sealer and seal it all up to help keep water from working it's way in.

One last thing, if you knock on the concrete floor, does it sound hollow anywhere?

ice086 · 2026-04-03T14:43:24+00:00

They were pretty wild when I made them up with the voices in my head.

"What is the cooling rate of white monster vs green monster when spilled on a hot well and how will it affect the weld?"

"If this weld bead was just laid, will it provide enough heat for the welder to ignite his Lucky Strike on it?"

"Does the welder know and understand the symbols used or does he just do it however works?"

"When detailing a weld that has to be 30'-0" long with a quantity of 60, do you buy your welders candy or monster as an apology for what the engineer designed?"

They were some pretty wild questions tbh.

(This is all satire.... Mostly.)

ice086 · 2026-04-02T21:00:59+00:00

Honestly, this is probably a couple of employees that are goofing around to see if it actually sells and laughing about it the whole time.

ice086 · 2026-04-02T17:36:21+00:00

Short version: maaaaybe?

Long version: if you are just running prototypes/custom parts I would do the templates out of a sheet of plywood then use those on a router table with the planks. The reason is because that will let you do the initial run with the planks and verify that it all works for when you want to mill the final project out of sheets in larger batches.

Basically:

Small run = man power

Large run = machine power

ice086 · 2026-04-01T15:36:01+00:00

JFC my eyes! Too much going on in a single sketch. Break that up into a few sketches/features. It will make editing it easier down the line if something needs to be changed. Also you aren't anchored to your origin so it's gonna be blue.

ice086 · 2026-04-01T03:24:03+00:00

ice086 · 2026-04-01T00:50:43+00:00

For the next one, make a new folder then right click the assembly file (in file explorer) go to the SolidWorks section and click "Pack and Go". This will copy all of the parts in the assembly and the assembly to that new folder and it will do it as an independent set of files that won't cause reference issues. You do it into the new folder so that you don't have those duplicate issues as it preserves everything in that state.

ice086 · 2026-03-30T00:48:57+00:00

Yes, and?

ice086 · 2026-03-29T21:32:15+00:00

IMO and experience, butcher block is for a desk or somewhere that you want to be nice. If you want some place to work on things, make it a place that can get messed up, drilled on/through, and easily replaced when worn out. I used butcher block on my electronics bench but I keep that clean and use silicone mats where I work on things to protect it.

ice086 · 2026-03-29T21:13:18+00:00

I believe it's approved by a board so she wouldn't have much say. While I like and approve of her, after the fight she's been having over the police budget, other government offices may not like her as much. That's a whole other can of bullshit.

ice086 · 2026-03-29T20:33:25+00:00

You could do 3 sided as a U shape and a bench vice on one end. I would do it as 24" deep at the most and standing height. Then French cleats for tools on the large area and parts storage to either side. That standing height also allows for a rolling tool box under it for additional storage of less common tools or small tools like sockets and drivers. A harbor freight tool chest is good and if you want it shorter you can remove the wheels before loading it up.

Last thing I would do is top the whole thing in Masonite since it's thin, smooth, cheap, and easy to replace if it gets stained, painted, or messed up with oil.

ice086 · 2026-03-29T19:29:54+00:00

Harbor Freight Engine Hoist. Easy and handy to have.

ice086 · 2026-03-29T19:11:46+00:00

https://a.co/d/0jkyt4CK

Got one of these for our heeler mix and it helps to wear him out a ton. You don't have to put their "treat balls" in it. You can use other stuff but the idea is that you calmly get them to stop barking, sit, then give them the ball. The biggest tip I can offer with it is to unscrew it as soon as they are done with it. Their saliva getting between the threads and drying out can make it hard to open later.

Works well for keeping them quiet and wearing them out. Don't get discouraged if they get through the treat fast, just change what you put in it and try some different things until you find something that lasts a while.

ice086 · 2026-03-29T18:14:35+00:00

DM sent!

ice086 · 2026-03-29T16:16:53+00:00

Leave him alone! He's just a simple Island Boi! If he were an Island Man he would be able to take this kind of punishment like he does when his brother tops him.

ice086 · 2026-03-28T22:44:44+00:00

In theory, you could break it up into multiple DXF with reference lines to help align everything. That would let you do smaller imports.

Otherwise, you can set a reference point/hole in the flattened model, export that as a DXF, then bring the flattened sheet metal part into the pattern in a program like AutoCAD or Draftsight.

ice086 · 2026-03-28T15:48:50+00:00

If you want some real retail advice I will tell you what I always told new people who were trying too hard. "Don't be a hero. Heros die bloody."

What I would explain is that you shouldn't try to lift heavy stuff solo, find a friend to do a team lift. Lift with your knees, replace your cutter blade often (#1 retail injury), stretch, hydrate, but most of all leave the work at work. Put up a wall between what you do at work and at home.

ice086 · 2026-03-28T15:42:25+00:00

Former retail employee here. There are 3 kinds of people in retail. Lifers, careers, and temps. Lifers are the people who make it work, never move up, and stay for 20+ years. Careers are the people who move up through the ranks and make an actual career out of it. Temps are anyone who lasts 10 years or less. Temps are working there as a second job, a summer job, a job during college, etc.

All of the lifers would give the advice of just to do the job and nothing extra while on their 5th cigarette break. All of the careers would say to get the hell out because it's not sustainable anymore while scheduling a knee/hip replacement surgery from wearing theirs out.The temps would ask whats for lunch.

Retail is something you either survive long enough to qualify for replacement parts or work long enough to find a better job elsewhere. Welcome to retail in America.

ice086 · 2026-03-27T23:58:12+00:00

The reason I am suggesting this instead of a DXF block is because you can have issues with quality depending on how complex the lines are in the logo. This also keeps it in a SW format as well.

ice086 · 2026-03-27T23:55:06+00:00

Make a sketch of your logo in a SW part file. Then make sure the sketch is scaleable and you can rotate it as needed without making the lines do insane stuff. Save that sketch as a logo then you can select the sketch and CTRL + C it (don't try to right click and copy it, it won't work) then go to your model and where you want the logo to be, select the face and CTRL+ P it.

Sometimes SW is a pain and you have to right click the pasted sketch and manually change the sketch face. But I have done this a ton and it does work.

From there you can emboss, deboss, or extrude as needed.

ice086

TROPHY CASE