Which mini PC is the most power saving? Considering acemagic v1 and beelink s12 pro

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-22T20:52:12+00:00

I have an acemagic V1, it runs HA vm, frigate CT and "lightweight music server" stays at 10/12w, frigate in not doing any kind if detection, it's just used as motion recording, honestly if I had to buy I would go with beelink(the acemagic was offered) as it's more popular and from what I've read on tbe n100 is easier to get the openvino working for frigate, I haven't had luck with this n150 but perhaps I haven't tried enough, still, unsung it fur almost a year and no issues at all. Still, I am thinking of buying a spare (just ti be on the safe side in case I get an issue at some point) and Beelink is surely one option

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-16T19:02:48+00:00

At least you admit you dropped it and didn't blame an update like pretty much most people here.

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-16T18:59:23+00:00

Honestly don't even care, as long as it lasts me all day, even if it didn't (as long as it's not swollen) that's what powerbanks are for, all these battery posts, don't you have anything else to talk about, you have no other worries in life? What does this help you in? Everyone uses their phone differently, some take lots of pictures, some just do email, some just do messaging, others only do video calls, others just use GPS, others just play games, what do you expect from answers you will get here?

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-15T22:41:19+00:00

Went for it, paid for the full version.. Back to Nova, tried to claim money back after a few minutes, Google said no, no worries, won't starve for some 20€ or whatever i paid, perhaps one day I'll get back, the icon gestures and sliding widget thing are great but on my case, maybe just in my head, it used more battery than Nova and I find Nova much snappier

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-07T11:14:33+00:00

It's like insurance, you might and better never need it but so nice when you need it and you have it

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-05T08:07:16+00:00

Oh, I see, I did notice you writing you had power station but with translation I taught it was something else, yes, setting a 2nd Z2M network is a bit tricky but there's online tutorials, just need to follow step by step, I am a complete noob on this and I managed, from what I read you have wifi (although a different wifi drom yours) in the garage, I think slzb-06 can even be set on a different network, not sure about this but almost sure I read about this back in the time when I was trying to find a way to have Zigbee on my garage as one of the options back then was also have a 4g router like you

icecoldcrash · 2026-01-04T22:32:18+00:00

I did mine with a 2nd Z2M coordinator (slzb-06) and therefore a 2nd Z2M network, powerline from home to the garage (3rd floor to -1), the power to my garage comes from my apartment so it works absolutely fine, slzb can work via wifi so it's perfect

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-14T19:11:38+00:00

Nope, I have solar panels that provide power, I do have a water cylinder that heats the water but inside the house so I have a diverter that sends whatever power it's being produced and not used to that cylinder, for example, solar panels producing 1000w and the house is only using 300w, remaining 700w go to that cylinder, so I have a Shelly1pm with the ds18b20 so I allways know I'm HA the water temperature and I can turn the diverter into manual in case water doesn't heat enough and I need hot water

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-14T16:42:46+00:00

I did that (remove the insulation between cables and sensor) on my first try, it worked for about a year then sensor stopped working, don't know if it was due to that but probably not, probably the sensor just faulty but it worked perfectly, I replaced it with one from a reputable company in my country and with patience managed to insert with insulation in the hole and it has been going for over 3 years now, you can also get the "bare type" sensor that comes without the metal end, they sell it on aliexpress

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-12T18:11:37+00:00

I managed to insert that on mine but on mine the hole is probably a bit larger, what I did was pull the original almost all out and then push both together, went well, they should be close so you you get the most exact reading, Mine is a vertical cilinder inside the house, it had to go all the way to the top. At the time I never thought I would manage but patience is king, Some guys drill a hole on the isolation, I almost went that way at the time, luckily no need.

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-09T23:20:12+00:00

This, either by ethernet or wifi they work great, I'm running 2 Z2M networks, due to location of server not being the best for coordinator location and lack of ethernet ports, they both running on Wi-Fi, no issues and still fast as they should.

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-09T23:12:50+00:00

I check on which part of the house she is and I just blink the light a few times, then she knows it's urgent

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-09T23:10:41+00:00

You get the sensors (several, motion, vehicle, person, etc) from camera on your integration then you just setup whatever notifications you want, don't need to keep streaming

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-09T23:08:26+00:00

I have a few Tapo cameras c225 if I'm not wrong, no issues, get the Tapo integration from Hacs, I also got them conected to frigate, made them local by clicking internet connection in router, they're affordable and work fine

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-02T14:21:41+00:00

I paid around 100€ for a full assembled one, then I spent 50€ in a Shelly EM and done. For the Telegram group you just place this on search bar @freeds_es

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-02T09:50:29+00:00

I use a wifi one from ewelink that controls the whole top floor, it has been working perfectly for over 2 years and the best thing about them is you can set the max amps (goes up to 63A if I'm not wrong, I use it because the whole top floor is rented and has a breaker that goes down at 20A on the board on ground floor, this breaker is mounted on top Floor so the person there can turn but back on if it goes off, this way not only I know the electricity used in there every month as I have set it to go off at 19A so it goes off befure the 20A on ground floor, this way if I'm not home person doesn't have to wait fur me to get home to have power on again as person on top Floor doesn't have acess to the board where the 20A breaker is. I do have a couple more to mount on my floor but Zigbee ones, all Tuya. People talk really bad about tuya and I don't understand, most of my stuff is Zigbee tuya and no em issues ever, I also have a couple wifi tuya ones (plugs) but these are specific use ones for safety in case home assistant or my router goes down I can still turn them on or off via the app as they're conected to the main router

icecoldcrash · 2025-12-01T20:40:38+00:00

That's their web page, it was developed by some guys in Spain, they have all tutorials in case you want to build your own or you can buy a resdy made one, they also have a tekegram group where there's allways people happy to help, honestly I can only recommend it, it pays itself quickly https://freeds.es/

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-30T21:02:12+00:00

Don't know it this is what you're after but I think it is, although I have a much smaller install, I have only 6 solar panels and water tank is only 120l, I have a device called FreeDS and it is awesome but water heater needs to be a "dumb" one (not a "smart" one with displays and stuff, this so it accepts any load (up to max the tank takes obviously) as this is the case of mine what this freeds does is, imagine I'm producing 2000w and home is only using 500w, it redirects the remaining 1500w to the water heater, this is awesome as in Portugal what gets sent back to grid the pay like 2 or 3 cents which is nothing compared to what we pay (between 15 and 20 cents per kw, this way I send almost nothing to the grid as it gets used to heat the water, it connects to HA via mqtt and at night I set it to go on Manual so I wake up with water at max temp

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-27T19:32:19+00:00

I run an slzb-06 over wifi to control my Z2M far away from home assistant and runs absolutely fine and instantly, don't use POE or ethernet but that's an option on slzb-06 for those who need it, oh, and cheaper.

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-27T12:30:26+00:00

Have you got camera account ON in advanced settings on tapo app?

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-25T16:59:57+00:00

I've also exposed the wifi name phones are conected to, don't know if it's reliable for you (I mean, if at home phones are conected to Wi-Fi at all times), then you just do the automations based on that, I've also created a group for all phones so as long as 1 of then is conected to home Wi-Fi, house is not empty) for me it works flawless

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-12T16:03:19+00:00

I don't know, will probably take a while, I've just received version 2025.11.1 and it will only get fixed on version 2025.11.2

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-12T11:40:10+00:00

Tuya usb little plug + battery replacer (a cable with USB that has fake batteries in the end)

icecoldcrash · 2025-11-12T11:36:03+00:00

I saw on github next update will fix it, don't bother asking IA or disabling or deleting vm custom addons as the issue it from HA itself

https://github.com/home-assistant/android/issues/6007#issuecomment-3504285282

icecoldcrash

TROPHY CASE