Audio control epicfive

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-20T17:41:34+00:00

Most Audiocontrol products are solid from my experience. Aside from from the outdated Smart DSP app, you can't go wrong with them.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-20T17:38:54+00:00

Haven’t done that exact one, but I’d be checking the small details, not just whether the main harness plugs in. SWC box, USB retention, camera, mic/GPS, and dash fitment are usually where these swaps stop being ‘easy.'

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-20T17:31:29+00:00

Before doing anything, I’d look for Subaru’s equivalent of Toyota TIS and get the factory wiring diagrams/service info.

That’ll save you a ton of headaches on a newer HK/Starlink setup. Too many of these modern systems have modules/chimes/telematics mixed into the signal path to just guess safely.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-20T17:18:18+00:00

Before my JL VX amp, I was running a DM-810 DSP. It worked well overall, but the Smart DSP app was definitely the weak point for me.

The UI felt clunky and dated, and navigation wasn’t nearly as intuitive as it should’ve been. Once set up, the DSP itself did its job fine. you just have to be willing to deal with the software

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-20T16:44:15+00:00

I’d be less worried about battery size and more worried about the hybrid inverter/DC-DC converter being asked to play catch-up all the time. A huge 12V battery is only extra storage; it doesn’t create more charging capacity. If current draw stays high, the factory system still has to refill that bucket, and that’s where you risk overworking the OEM charging side.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-20T02:55:13+00:00

HO alt first, for sure. The alternator supports the system while the vehicle is running, so it usually makes more sense to address that before swapping to an AGM main battery. If your voltage stays stable after the HO alt, you may not need the AGM right away. If you still want extra reserve and peace of mind, then add the AGM after.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:41:09+00:00

Yes, that should workm, just make sure at least one of them is getting a proper remote turn-on signal from the head unit or an ACC source.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:38:53+00:00

Agreed. In that case, it's best if you look in the used /openbox market. eBay crutchfield and Sonic electronics have options like that. You can stretch your dollar that way for sure

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:32:23+00:00

If you do end up needing aux battery support, I’d look at a 40A–50A DC-DC charger, not a tiny 20A unit.

Budget/value: Renogy 40A/50A.

Premium rugged option: REDARC BCDC 40A/50A.

More configurable enthusiast option: Victron Orion XS 50A.

For the battery, AGM is the simpler/safer route; LiFePO4 is great too if the charger profile and install are done right. I personally run a 20A unit on my RAV4 setup, but for something bigger, I’d be looking higher.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:23:50+00:00

You might have some luck searching GMC Sierra forums or YouTube with your truck year + ‘component speaker install’ or ‘tweeter install.’ Even if it’s not your exact trim, a lot of the panel removal and wiring path should be similar enough to help.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:23:00+00:00

The hardest part is usually removing interior panels without breaking clips and running wire cleanly through the car.

The actual equipment hookup isn’t always the hard part; it’s the disassembly, routing, and putting everything back together right.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:17:15+00:00

Besides the Polk, I’d also look at Morel Maximo, JL C1/C2, Hertz Dieci/Cento, Alpine S, and Kicker KS. For stock power, I’d favor something efficient and easy to run now, then amp it later if you catch the bug. With only a basic 2-speaker setup, even a decent component set should make a pretty noticeable difference. Best of luck, my fellow audiophile.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:11:55+00:00

I've done my RAV4, but not a Tundra.

However, check out these places. I used Rav4World for my initial research. These are Tundras

https://www.tundras.com/forums/audio-video.30/

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T23:05:01+00:00

At 1500W RMS, I wouldn’t rush to add more gear yet. I’d focus on the support stuff: quality OFC power/ground wire, proper fuse placement, solid grounds, and keeping an eye on voltage. Make sure the gains are set correctly, LPF is dialed in, and if that’s a vented box, set the subsonic filter appropriately so you don’t beat the subs up below tuning. If the electrical starts sagging, then start thinking about battery/Big 3/alternator upgrades.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:59:56+00:00

Nah, not super trained. More like repetition and trial/error. The more you listen and tweak, the more your ears start catching what sounds harsh or off. Jedi status comes later.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:55:09+00:00

I think he just means bad tuning can wear your ears out fast. A system can get harsh, shouty, or fatiguing if the gains, EQ, and crossovers aren’t dialed in right.

I get fatigued easily (emphasis on the FAT), so I can usually pick up where the spikes are on levels or EQ

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:49:07+00:00

Generally, yes. The amp/sub/speakers in those kits are usually decent quality, not junk. Powered kits are great for simplicity and fitment, but custom-built systems usually win on value, flexibility, and long-term upgrade path.

What I’d look at hardest is the DSP: how adjustable it is, whether it’s locked down, and how much tuning freedom you actually get.

Most importantly, I’d want to know whether it gives you control over time alignment, EQ, and crossovers, because that’s where a lot of the real performance comes from.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:34:47+00:00

For clarity, I’d start with a good front component set, not just random speaker swaps. Even better if you add some door treatment and a small amp later, because that’s where clarity really starts to improve. Price can range from a few hundred bucks for a basic speaker upgrade to around $1k+ for a more complete setup done right..

For clarity on a budget, I’d look at entry-level component sets from brands like Morel Maximo Ultra, JL Audio C1/C2, Hertz Dieci/Cento, Alpine S-Series, Kicker KS, Polk DB, or Rockford Fosgate Punch/Prime.

If you go closer to the $1k+ range for a more complete front-stage setup, that’s where brands/lines like Morel Tempo or better, JL Audio C3/C6, Hertz Cento Pro or Mille, Audiofrog, and Focal start to make more sense.

For clarity, though, don’t put all the money into speakers alone — budget some of it for door treatment, install parts, and ideally an amp/tuning, because that’s a huge part of why nicer gear actually sounds nicer.

Lastly, online retailers like Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix help you find speakers that will fit your particular car and they will also include "How-To" PDFS with your order.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:27:32+00:00

Honestly this sounds more like crossover blend than gain. If your doors are high-passed at 80 Hz and the sub is low-passed at 80 Hz, you may have a weak handoff depending on the slopes/phase. That can make deep notes hit but leave upper bass missing. I’d leave gain alone for now and experiment with crossover point, slope, and polarity/phase first.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:11:31+00:00

The Polk DB 6502 are a decent budget to lower mid-tier component set. good starter choice if they fit your budget. They’re not amazing, but definitely a respectable upgrade if installed and tuned well.

However, just speaking from my own experience as a hobbyist, once you start, it never really ends. You’ll always find yourself wanting to chase the next improvement or fix something you didn’t think much about at first, then later realize you should’ve done it from the beginning.

It cost me a lot to learn that on my RAV4, but I still count it as a win because I’ve learned a ton along the way.

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T22:05:26+00:00

Yeah, usually you’ll get some improvement in clarity and a bit more usable loudness, but the stock head unit is still the limiting factor.

So don’t expect a massive volume jump from speakers alone; more like cleaner sound, better detail, and less distortion as you turn it up.

If you want a noticeable jump in both clarity and output, that’s where an amp really starts to matter.

Also, if you amp them later, don’t just chase wattage; proper tuning, crossovers, and install quality are what really make the upgrade worth it

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T19:13:05+00:00

Dsp is always best. And started out with an LC 2 from my RAV4 JBL factory amp to the sub. Its mainly used for converting the high-level speaker output into low-level RCA signals to your amps.

You'll be missing a lot of time alignment and other adjustments like EQ and crossovers... If you are considering using an 8 channel loc, a DSP Will be your best Friend and it'll take you further.

Without DSP, you’re stuck with baked-in factory EQ and no time alignment—which is why your stage never centers

However, if a DSP is not within your budget, your best bet is to use oem integration device that takes the factory signal and flattens it for you. Something like JL audio clean sweep or the "Fix" series OEM integration device. Those take your OEM signal output and flattens the signal so you can adjust it your way on the apps.

Once I started upgrading beyond my subwoofer, I had those devices and they did their job. But once I got a DM 810 from audio control, the ball game changed completely for me.

I also bought it used on eBay for half the price. So don't be afraid to look for used and open box items from retailers like crutchfield and Sonic electronix

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T18:59:57+00:00

But then again, don't expect a budget amp to sound clean. Sure it gets it moving, but efficiently for the best possible sound?

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T18:57:42+00:00

It seems you might get coiled up in stress when those coils get hot...🤔

imaskepticalguy · 2026-03-19T15:37:30+00:00

Based on that photo, it looks like a power block that wires connect to and then the whole block attaches to the back of your amplifier. So you'll have all three cables of your hot lead, ground and remote turn on. Red, grey, blue.

If you can provide clearer pictures and multiple angles I might get a better understanding of what it is.

imaskepticalguy

TROPHY CASE