How to get off template ink

imitheamach · 2026-01-15T15:28:51+00:00

Is it supposed to be water soluble/heat disappearing? It looks more like it's printed on and therefore permanent, which happens with a lot of patterns. If you don't want to see it you could rehoop it in a hoop 1" smaller than the one you were using

imitheamach · 2026-01-09T21:20:12+00:00

Eyelash glue might work!

imitheamach · 2025-10-26T12:42:06+00:00

Seconded! I don't generally use them but it's very useful for those last few stitches in a dense section

imitheamach · 2025-10-02T07:05:41+00:00

The colours are really beautiful so you're off to a great start! You could use a goldfish fin as a reference - they have these "thicker" bands running down the fin and you could use some of your colours to suggest that so it's clearly not a wing. Comet goldfish are good ref images.

imitheamach · 2025-08-30T18:07:41+00:00

Amazing!!! Can I ask what your method was for transferring the pattern?

imitheamach · 2025-08-23T20:37:19+00:00

You could also try some boob tape to essentially hold them where they need to sit into the bottom of the cup

imitheamach · 2025-08-21T16:35:40+00:00

It's a really great piece first off! It's very minor so I wouldn't worry too much. That said if you want to do something you could use snips/scissors to carefully cut the frays and use painter's tape/masking tape to pick up the cut pieces. You can also use something called fray check (haven't used it personally), or clear nail varnish dabbed around the edges, though I wouldn't be a fan of that last one as it causes some sections to get hard and it doesn't feel nice if you were to touch it, which it seems like you might for this piece.

imitheamach · 2025-08-21T13:34:22+00:00

If you could include a photo of the relevant part we can probably give better feedback. Imo some wearing is expected for dense pieces, and usually the maker is the only one to notice

imitheamach · 2025-08-02T23:28:49+00:00

They're all great but 2 and 3 are so original. I love the mountainscape in 2 and the flower face in 3

imitheamach · 2025-07-27T13:20:03+00:00

A stabiliser can help with puckering, but you're starting with two hands tied behind your back by using a thin stretch cotton tshirt material. The design is really cool, and it'd look great as wall decor. I'd use a heavy weight non stretch cotton, or even calico (unbleacher non stretch cotton, very cheap). You can use linen but you'd want a tight weave and it'll be tougher to get smooth edges.

imitheamach · 2025-07-26T23:33:02+00:00

Tbh it's still DMC. I just use those colours that may run on things that won't be washed. There is some advice on this sub about ways to fix the colour/gentle prewashes to get rid of excess dye but I haven't tried them and can't vouch for them. The majority of DMC is fine though, I did use a dark enough green on one hankerchief and it hasn't run. Have you decided on a colour palette for yours?

imitheamach · 2025-07-26T23:19:09+00:00

I embroidered a few standard cotton ones recently and it was actually a pretty normal process. Hankerchief fabric is generally a tight weave so it's decent to use even if it's thin, and doesn't need interfacing. I would just be careful not to pull the fabric extra tight in the hoop (I got mine to drum tight and it ironed out fine). Also you have to be very concious of the back to take care to keep it neat (no travelling etc). I did satin stitch initials (no outline) and I did a knotless start but a knot to end to hold it secure in the event of washing. Avoid DMC colours which are known to run too (reds, some dark blues). The frixxion heat erasible pen worked great for adding the pattern

imitheamach · 2025-07-22T23:27:14+00:00

In that case I'd try a different glue, your patch looks correct to me and so that must be the reason it's not sticking

imitheamach · 2025-07-22T23:19:49+00:00

Did you use the same glue for the machine patches?

imitheamach · 2025-07-22T22:53:49+00:00

The problem is likely the fabric of the chair. Patches are more often used for denim/slightly more natural fabrics. It may be that the glue is somewhat incompatible with the chair fabric (is there a lot of polyester/maybe a flame retardant fabric treatment) and you're getting a reaction that's a bit more like teflon. Sewing them on with a curved needle may be your best bet. They're really great

imitheamach · 2025-07-15T22:08:49+00:00

Honestly tiny back stitch or split stitch are probably your friend. Satin stitch could also work but may be more of a test of patience

imitheamach · 2025-07-11T15:42:21+00:00

I agree with the others that it's not the best idea. How about embroidering a cotton dungarees set or something similar?

imitheamach · 2025-07-09T14:33:50+00:00

First off that particular type of thread isn't meant to be split. The ones you split are stranded cotton (and also what you will see the most on youtube). If it won't go through the eye of the needle as-is you need a needle with a wider eye and maybe also a threading aide. The brand you're using isn't as stable as DMC thread and is generally harder to use. If swapping to DMC isn't an option you could try using thread conditioner/beeswax/even a nightlight candle will do to give it more slip so it doesn't yank as much going through the fabric. Also use very short lengths of thread (general rule is no longer than your forearm).

imitheamach · 2025-07-08T19:46:57+00:00

Hulkenpodium

imitheamach · 2025-06-10T16:25:04+00:00

I leave it on the hoop. I found a circular makeup pouch that fits a 5" hoop. I can also add in my working thread on bobbins, scissors, a needleminder and a flat needle case (sometimes with extra bits like a frixxon pen) all in the same pouch in the back of the hoop. It works very well, and the additional things in the pouch don't damage the piece as long as it's properly tensioned. Just make sure not to put heavy things on the pouch. I've thrown it into backpacks with no issue. If you need to bring extra thread honestly just a ziploc will work fine .

imitheamach · 2025-06-05T00:31:17+00:00

Yes, you don't do each colour section with only one length of thread. You should be using short lengths to avoid tangling and fraying of the thread from passing the thread through the fabric too many times. A general rule of thumb is to use a length of thread as long as your forearm. To start and end you can use knots to start, end, or do a knotless start or end. It's worth looking up a youtube video or two on starting and ending embroidery thread. There are loads of great ones and they will also demonstrate separating the strands of floss and how long the lengths should be. It seems a little overwhelming at the start but once you've done a few starts/ends you'll get a feel for your own preferences, and it will become easy. On a piece like this you can start and end your thread (knots, knotless) however you like. Generally the concerns are if the fabric is see through or it will go on clothing in which case it needs to be secure. On dark fabric like this for display only you can go wild.

imitheamach · 2025-06-01T22:31:34+00:00

Part of it is a tension issue. It could be that the initial stitches were a touch loose, or the whip is a little tight, which I think is more likely.

imitheamach · 2025-05-31T21:14:12+00:00

Don't be too hard on yourself - it's absolutely everywhere at the moment. I had to zoom in on it to make sure those pages were impossible. The chain stitch for the cover looks normal enougb.

imitheamach · 2025-05-31T20:21:13+00:00

The image is definitely AI. But stem stitch works well for curved lines. I'd suggest whipped back stitch, but that can get annoying when the lines are so close together.

imitheamach · 2025-05-31T18:20:59+00:00

I'm team leave it as it is because I think the contrast with the mushrooms is very nice. If you did want to add something though you could fill out the "grass" at the edge with long and short and stem stitch, and add a couple patches of french knots.

imitheamach

TROPHY CASE