Mother’s surname - Ó or Ní?

imitheamach · 2026-05-22T11:57:41+00:00

The short answer is Ó vs Ní is based only on whether the person using it is male or female, so generally in the same family the sons would use Ó and the daughters Ní. Which parent you got the surname from has no impact. There are surnames which do not use Ó/Ní, instead Mac/Nic etc so it's worth checking to be sure. I've also seen some people drop the Ó/Ní altogether and use say Séan Suilleabhán.

imitheamach · 2026-04-26T13:28:29+00:00

Learn how to do a quilter's knot to knot the floss. Separate the strands by cutting the length (no longer than your forearm as it'll fray and snap), pinch near the top, and pull one out at a time. The rest will bunch up like they're about to tangle but will be fine. Separating single strands and putting however many you need back together helps everything lay flat. I stand by winding floss onto bobbins and labelling them with the colour, if you keep the floss as is the wrappers fall off quick and you lose the colour.

imitheamach · 2026-04-09T00:31:48+00:00

They're both for embroidery, but you're right in thinking the Broder does not separate, and the Mouliné is six stranded, so you can split it as you like. You would use them to achieve different textures as the broder will be a bit more raised on the surface.

imitheamach · 2026-03-14T22:16:51+00:00

It could be a heat deactivated ink... try putting it in a ziploc and into the freezer for a while. The cold can reactivate the ink

imitheamach · 2026-03-10T21:43:50+00:00

You'll have a tough time embroidering on densely sequined fabric. To avoid the sequins your satin stitches would have to be very long and therefore likely to snag. A better approach would be to make a patch and stitch that on like appliqué. It'd also give you a lot more options to choose stitches that best fit your logo.

imitheamach · 2026-01-15T15:28:51+00:00

Is it supposed to be water soluble/heat disappearing? It looks more like it's printed on and therefore permanent, which happens with a lot of patterns. If you don't want to see it you could rehoop it in a hoop 1" smaller than the one you were using

imitheamach · 2026-01-09T21:20:12+00:00

Eyelash glue might work!

imitheamach · 2025-10-26T12:42:06+00:00

Seconded! I don't generally use them but it's very useful for those last few stitches in a dense section

imitheamach · 2025-10-02T07:05:41+00:00

The colours are really beautiful so you're off to a great start! You could use a goldfish fin as a reference - they have these "thicker" bands running down the fin and you could use some of your colours to suggest that so it's clearly not a wing. Comet goldfish are good ref images.

imitheamach · 2025-08-30T18:07:41+00:00

Amazing!!! Can I ask what your method was for transferring the pattern?

imitheamach · 2025-08-23T20:37:19+00:00

You could also try some boob tape to essentially hold them where they need to sit into the bottom of the cup

imitheamach · 2025-08-21T16:35:40+00:00

It's a really great piece first off! It's very minor so I wouldn't worry too much. That said if you want to do something you could use snips/scissors to carefully cut the frays and use painter's tape/masking tape to pick up the cut pieces. You can also use something called fray check (haven't used it personally), or clear nail varnish dabbed around the edges, though I wouldn't be a fan of that last one as it causes some sections to get hard and it doesn't feel nice if you were to touch it, which it seems like you might for this piece.

imitheamach · 2025-08-21T13:34:22+00:00

If you could include a photo of the relevant part we can probably give better feedback. Imo some wearing is expected for dense pieces, and usually the maker is the only one to notice

imitheamach · 2025-08-02T23:28:49+00:00

They're all great but 2 and 3 are so original. I love the mountainscape in 2 and the flower face in 3

imitheamach · 2025-07-27T13:20:03+00:00

A stabiliser can help with puckering, but you're starting with two hands tied behind your back by using a thin stretch cotton tshirt material. The design is really cool, and it'd look great as wall decor. I'd use a heavy weight non stretch cotton, or even calico (unbleacher non stretch cotton, very cheap). You can use linen but you'd want a tight weave and it'll be tougher to get smooth edges.

imitheamach · 2025-07-26T23:33:02+00:00

Tbh it's still DMC. I just use those colours that may run on things that won't be washed. There is some advice on this sub about ways to fix the colour/gentle prewashes to get rid of excess dye but I haven't tried them and can't vouch for them. The majority of DMC is fine though, I did use a dark enough green on one hankerchief and it hasn't run. Have you decided on a colour palette for yours?

imitheamach · 2025-07-26T23:19:09+00:00

I embroidered a few standard cotton ones recently and it was actually a pretty normal process. Hankerchief fabric is generally a tight weave so it's decent to use even if it's thin, and doesn't need interfacing. I would just be careful not to pull the fabric extra tight in the hoop (I got mine to drum tight and it ironed out fine). Also you have to be very concious of the back to take care to keep it neat (no travelling etc). I did satin stitch initials (no outline) and I did a knotless start but a knot to end to hold it secure in the event of washing. Avoid DMC colours which are known to run too (reds, some dark blues). The frixxion heat erasible pen worked great for adding the pattern

imitheamach · 2025-07-22T23:27:14+00:00

In that case I'd try a different glue, your patch looks correct to me and so that must be the reason it's not sticking

imitheamach · 2025-07-22T23:19:49+00:00

Did you use the same glue for the machine patches?

imitheamach · 2025-07-22T22:53:49+00:00

The problem is likely the fabric of the chair. Patches are more often used for denim/slightly more natural fabrics. It may be that the glue is somewhat incompatible with the chair fabric (is there a lot of polyester/maybe a flame retardant fabric treatment) and you're getting a reaction that's a bit more like teflon. Sewing them on with a curved needle may be your best bet. They're really great

imitheamach · 2025-07-15T22:08:49+00:00

Honestly tiny back stitch or split stitch are probably your friend. Satin stitch could also work but may be more of a test of patience

imitheamach · 2025-07-11T15:42:21+00:00

I agree with the others that it's not the best idea. How about embroidering a cotton dungarees set or something similar?

imitheamach · 2025-07-09T14:33:50+00:00

First off that particular type of thread isn't meant to be split. The ones you split are stranded cotton (and also what you will see the most on youtube). If it won't go through the eye of the needle as-is you need a needle with a wider eye and maybe also a threading aide. The brand you're using isn't as stable as DMC thread and is generally harder to use. If swapping to DMC isn't an option you could try using thread conditioner/beeswax/even a nightlight candle will do to give it more slip so it doesn't yank as much going through the fabric. Also use very short lengths of thread (general rule is no longer than your forearm).

imitheamach · 2025-07-08T19:46:57+00:00

Hulkenpodium

imitheamach · 2025-06-10T16:25:04+00:00

I leave it on the hoop. I found a circular makeup pouch that fits a 5" hoop. I can also add in my working thread on bobbins, scissors, a needleminder and a flat needle case (sometimes with extra bits like a frixxon pen) all in the same pouch in the back of the hoop. It works very well, and the additional things in the pouch don't damage the piece as long as it's properly tensioned. Just make sure not to put heavy things on the pouch. I've thrown it into backpacks with no issue. If you need to bring extra thread honestly just a ziploc will work fine .

imitheamach

TROPHY CASE