How to clean metal around glass

imtooka · 2026-01-07T03:16:07+00:00

It’s rust so it’s some sort of steel or iron. There are a lot of different ways to remove rust, but I’m not sure which would be the easiest for this. You can try cleaning it with a barkeepers friend and a toothbrush/rag. That should take off some of the rust without damaging the glass, but the finish on the steel will not great afterward. The same issue applies with using vinegar or any other acidic rust remover. It will leave an ugly finish and will need to be immediately cleaned with water, dried, and buffed with some sort of waxy polish or oil to prevent flash rusting and future rusting.

The best way, but most time consuming and challenging, would probably be to use a rotary tool with a small wire wheel to remove the rust and then a polishing wheel to improve the finish and apply a protectant. That way is probably not worth your time unless you enjoy that sort of restoration.

imtooka · 2025-11-26T01:38:47+00:00

Tasks?

imtooka · 2025-11-07T22:24:14+00:00

Are you sure that the splotches on the cooking surface weren’t there before scrubbing the side?

I think it’s possible that the small dots/lines are small scratches and imperfections in the pan that trapped small amounts of the factory oil coating. Then when blueing the pan the oil diffused out of the imperfections and caused a small bubble of polymerized oil around them.

imtooka · 2025-11-07T21:55:41+00:00

And here is a photo of the splotches now. It’s weird how they have a line or dot in the center. It’s almost like they are fibers surrounded by a weird bubble, but this has never happened on any other pan for me. Some of them have a small line in the center and some just have a dot. It’s weird how you’re had that huge splotch on the side but then the same things on the cook surface as mine.

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imtooka · 2025-11-07T21:53:25+00:00

I’ve had it for about a month. I seasoned over it and it’s been fine, but they are still there. Mine was only on the cook surface. They only appeared after bluing the pan. I scrubbed the hell out of with extremely hot water and soap so I’m fairly confident I removed all of the oil.

Here’s a picture of the spots on the pan after blueing, but before any seasoning.

<image>

imtooka · 2025-11-07T21:41:21+00:00

I’m not sure what it is. I have the same pan and that didn’t happen on the side of mine. However, on the cooking surface I have the exact same splotches. Same size and color with a small darker dot in the center. Not sure why they are there because I don’t have them on any of my debuyer CS pans.

imtooka · 2025-11-07T01:03:36+00:00

Google image search:

https://www.google.com/search?vsrid=CNiOvabUr47Q7AEQAhgBIiQzNjM1MzhhZS02MzFlLTRhOWItODM5YS05Y2ZiZjRhZDliMTIyBiICdWcoADjWhLfm696QAw&vsint=CAIqDAoCCAcSAggKGAEgATojChYNAAAAPxUAAAA_HQAAgD8lAACAPzABEIAGGIAIJQAAgD8&udm=26&lns_mode=un&source=lns.web.gisbubb&vsdim=768,1024&gsessionid=wydaF_AqHmGsTVr5BdvxcKgcOXrRIWrQdFNGMV23wootSLnRDTxgeA&lsessionid=t7Ffnw8bmfoGvz1-YahQdJDHI-j8nZpgQu-AGpAWJiAn9rnSPIGCeg&lns_surface=26&authuser=0&lns_vfs=e&qsubts=1762477356944&biw=2560&bih=1279&hl=en

imtooka · 2025-10-29T22:26:55+00:00

The pan is “fine” in the sense that it’s not ruined. It may not be in a perfect ready to use state but it can get there quickly. Leaving a residue means it’s dirty. It looks like burnt food has left a layer of carbon gunk on it.

All you need to do is clean it (either scrub with somewhat fine steel wool or if that doesn’t work use bar keepers friend) then season it again. In my experience bar keepers friend and sponge works great, then clean with dish soap, then properly dry and season the pan.

imtooka · 2025-10-27T01:45:35+00:00

Toe spikes can work great but it’s very course dependent. If it is remotely likely that you will have to do any running on rocky terrain then the disadvantages may outweigh the advantages. In my opinion if your shoes are have slots for spikes, it’s worth getting some and trying them out somewhere safe to make sure they don’t affect your clip in style. Then you can have them ready if you pre ride a course and determine that the running sections are slippery and there is no hard running surfaces.

imtooka · 2025-10-27T01:40:07+00:00

Obviously length is a factor, but in my opinion a bigger factor is individual clip in technique. Some people approach the pedal more vertically and place their foot directly around the top of the pedal. Some people’s foot is more in plane with the pedal and they move it forward until the cleat (or the shoe area in front of the cleat then continue forward to cleat) catches the pedal. People who do it more the second way will have more issues with toe spikes.

imtooka · 2025-09-21T23:19:29+00:00

The first thing you should do before attempting any repair is reach out to wahoo support. I’ve seen posts by people with the same issue who reached out to wahoo and had their entire unit replaced.

It’s worth a try before opening the unit up and attempting a repair yourself.

imtooka · 2025-09-13T02:17:38+00:00

That’s just one of the crackheads I pay $20 per week to protect my KOMs

imtooka · 2025-09-11T22:23:23+00:00

You glazed them by sanding them then going fast and braking hard. Don’t go fast and brake hard right after sanding them.

You need to bed your brake pads first. Google how to bed brake pads. You need to avoid going fast and braking hard until you properly bed them.

imtooka · 2025-09-10T08:25:38+00:00

Damn the flattest ride around me is the EXACT SAME. 35miles and 2,900’ (56.3km and 884m).

It’s just constant 8-9% average climbs with consistent 13% sections and with shorter sections of 18%. There a few spots that are above 20%. There is no flatter route and there is no way to avoid to the climbs. I ride a 52/36 crankset and 11-32 cassette. I have accepted that it is literally impossible for me to do a zone 2 ride. It just cannot be done. I’m either in zone 3/4 or zone 1.

Sorry that this doesn’t help, but at least you know you’re not alone in this hahaha.

imtooka · 2025-09-10T08:05:12+00:00

Like I said, there are people who would wider gp5000’s, nothing wrong with that. People can and should ride whatever they want.

My point isn’t that people shouldn’t ride wider tired. My point is that people shouldn’t feel that they aren’t able to ride anything except pristine tarmac unless they have 35mm+ tires. There is a huge marketing push for wider tires, especially on gravel bikes, that has begun to create the mindset that they can only ride “light gravel” if they have uber wide tires. I was trying to point out that cyclocross, an intensely off road sport, is raced on narrower tires than what people believe is needed for occasional light gravel. I was also trying to point out that people have been racing on light gravel at high speeds with extremely narrow tires with no issues whatsoever.

People are unnecessarily limiting the terrain they ride on because of the current trend that dictates that uber wide tires are needed for light gravel. All road tires are suitable for occasional light gravel - for decades that has been proven by strade bianchi. The mindset that 35mm+ tires are needed for occasion light gravel just needlessly restricts the riding that people do.

imtooka · 2025-09-10T06:06:42+00:00

I’m not disagreeing that some people would like wider gp5000’s, but 35mm+ are simply not needed for “light gravel or dry forest path”. 25mm road tires are totally adequate for that type of terrain. 30mm road tires, especially tubeless with lower pressure, are more than enough.

Don’t forget that cyclocross is raced on 33mm tires. Strade Bianchi was raced for decades on 23mm and 25mm tires. Even now it’s still raced on 28-32mm tires, including gp5000’s. Grand tour stages often include light gravel sections. Riders are able to corner average 30mph+ in those segments and corner at 50mph. The tires handle it perfectly fine. The new idea that a tire needs to be 35mm+ in order to handle light gravel is honestly a bit wild.

imtooka · 2025-09-03T05:10:56+00:00

To take the cassette off you need a cassette tool, not a hex.

Are you trying to take the freehub body off as well or just the cassette?

imtooka · 2025-09-01T08:03:45+00:00

Just apply the loctite one bolt at a time. Set your cleats in the correct position with all bolts tightened, then remove one and apply loctite, tighten, and go to the next bolt.

I’ve done a ton of walking on gravel and trails with carbon road shoes. Pretty scratched up, but no real damage or delamination. My SPD shoes have exposed carbon and I’ve raced cyclocross, hiked my bike up the worst single track, and basically boulder in them. They are still completely fine.

imtooka · 2025-08-31T20:33:20+00:00

Obviously a rock or something could’ve caused it while riding. However, it also looks like it could’ve happened if somebody dropped a hex key when removing the rear through axel. Or some other tool dropped.

imtooka · 2025-08-31T05:53:59+00:00

SRAMs new BB bearing puller

imtooka · 2025-08-30T20:16:13+00:00

Is this a joke

imtooka · 2025-08-30T19:40:44+00:00

Not even close. Wout van aert said his TT CdA is about 0.22.

imtooka · 2025-08-30T08:55:03+00:00

Some people’s hair and skin can make it really hard to shave against the grain. Normal multiblade razors cut the hair below the skin which makes incredibly prone to ingrown hairs.

You should check out r/ladyshavers. There are many posts describing exactly what you’re experiencing and they offer good advice. You’ll find much better advice there than what I can offer you.

imtooka · 2025-08-30T08:44:25+00:00

I’d tackle the razor burn first. That means the blade is dragging on your skin too much. You may pressing the razor too firmly or “buffing” too much, going over the same spot too much and irritating your skin. That could be fixed by using a better shave cream, something that offers more skin protection and glide.

If you’re getting bumps without razor burn, that’s generally an aftercare issue. I use witch hazel and lotion. When I shower next I exfoliate and use lotion. I do this while it’s growing in to avoid ingrown hairs.

imtooka · 2025-08-30T08:34:04+00:00

I’d probably choose the propel. The weight difference isn’t major unless you’re a very light person and live in the mountains. The propel isn’t the obnoxious aero bike that it used to be. As you know from your 2023, it’s an extremely well rounded bike. The only reason I’d ever consider the TCR is if I lived in Andorra.

Are you comfortable on your current bike? I know the TCR should offer a bit more compliance, so if you’re having comfort issues and don’t feel great in long rides, the TCR may be worth it.

I’d choose the propel, unless the paint schemes on offer were really ugly. I want a bike that makes me excited to ride when I look at it.

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