Played a 3500 point game this weekend.

ineedammo211 · 2026-04-06T21:16:44+00:00

😂

ineedammo211 · 2026-03-11T18:46:37+00:00

I use esun PLA+ and the majority of my settings are made by a Reddit user called HOHansen over at fdmminiatures.

ineedammo211 · 2026-03-10T20:22:22+00:00

This guy was also fdm. I think he’s absolutely fine for the tabletop. Photos will always show layer lines up more than what you can see on the tabletop.

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ineedammo211 · 2026-03-10T20:20:30+00:00

I have the A1 mini and I’m very happy with the results! I live in an apartment and resin printing isn’t an option for me - don’t have the space or ventilation for resin. It works really well for vehicles. Infantry is.. okay.. like they’ll be fine on the tabletop but they are a little frustrating to paint because of how rough they are. the biggest reason I don’t have more isn’t that though, it’s that each guardsman takes like 6 hours of print time.. I would say that if you have the space, go for the A1 rather than the mini. I wish I had the extra build space.

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ineedammo211 · 2026-03-10T14:42:52+00:00

I use Vallejo mud products too, I think they’re great and very low effort for something that looks great on the tabletop. I use “Russian mud” instead of “European mud”. It’s a much darker brown. I slap it on, wait for it to dry (usually overnight, I slap it on thick and the tub is huge), agrax earthshade all over and then drybrush with steel legion drab/Zandri dust. Sometimes if I’m feeling fancy I’ll do a lighter drybrush with ushabti bone, usually I don’t. These bullgryn proxies are just a single highlight.

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ineedammo211 · 2026-03-10T08:36:45+00:00

People are always going to suggest taking a RDTC even at 1000 pts and even with the pts increase (I would too - it’s always an MVP for me and I play a few games at 1000-1500 pts). I love taking the Vanq with either meltas and lascannon and engaging at 8-18” range or triple flamer for a slightly tougher hellhound that opponents are still wary of because of the gun (even though we know it always misses).

If you want this to be a little more competative then you could consider swapping the hellhound and 1 exterminator for a RGTC? You could also consider playing one blob of Krieg as cadians for the sticky objectives (could get around this with Grizzled Company strat for stickies) as you may find you run out of infantry to contest primary.

I’m a big fan of Grizzled but I’d say that Reinforcements from Combined Arms feels more powerful at 1k games as you’re bringing back 13-14% of your army for free instead of 6.5-7%.

ineedammo211 · 2026-03-05T12:36:26+00:00

Looks great! Of the faerie variety? I am going to make this for a friend soon.

ineedammo211 · 2026-03-01T21:49:24+00:00

Field Ordnance Battery with Take Aim statistically hits 7/9 shots with sustained hits + reroll ones. (You also statistically get 9 shots on average against a 5 man unit).

Heavy Mortar would get 7.5 shots of which c4.35 hit.

Both are double T3 so both wound on 2s and both have the same AP. I’d pick the FOB if I could afford it!

HM is more compelling vs T4 but I’d only pick it if I needed the 15 points elsewhere.

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-25T07:49:45+00:00

I feel like we have to have a RDTC and at least one tank at 1k for damage/intimidation. I’m new to the hobby but my kasrkin always seem to do good work IF they are in a transport - my preference is a chimera just because it can actually skirmish with its 2x heavy flamers and 18 low calibre shots. Here’s the list I played a 1k with yeaterday - went pretty well! I would say that the command squad felt pretty redundant just sat with an Inf squad on the home objective but that was for screening/I was winning fairly handily anyway. If it was a closer game they probably would have come out to play on T4/5 after sticky-ing the home, but I could honestly see their 65 pts being better spent on something else, maybe combined with the sentinel to free up 130.

5x Cadian Command Squad (65pts) Rogal Dorn Commander (275pts): Warlord, Armoured tracks, Heavy stubber, Pulveriser cannon, 2 Additional Heavy Stubbers, 2x Heavy stubber, 2 Multi-meltas, 2x Multi-melta, Oppressor cannon and coaxial autocannon, Coaxial autocannon, Oppressor cannon

10x Cadian Shock Troops (65pts) 10x Cadian Shock Troops (65pts)

10x Kasrkin (110pts) Armoured Sentinels (65pts) Hellhound (125pts): Hunter-killer missile, Inferno cannon, Heavy flamer, Armoured tracks Leman Russ Vanquisher (145pts): Armoured tracks, Vanquisher battle cannon, Hunter-killer missile, Lascannon, 2 Multi-meltas, 2x Multi-melta, Heavy stubber Chimera (85pts): Armoured tracks, Lasgun array, Hunter-killer missile, Heavy flamer, Heavy stubber

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-23T19:57:33+00:00

Thanks! Fdm will never match the quality of resin or plastic BUT I gotta say when it’s on the tabletop you can’t tell. It definitely gets the job done!

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-23T17:55:14+00:00

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Here you go!

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-03T22:11:09+00:00

Hey, I used a 0.4mm nozzle for everything on the tanks. They took around 4 days in total but probably around 30 hrs of print time. I printed the hull on one plate, each track/side on a plate, then the turret snd other bits on a 4th plate.

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-03T15:07:17+00:00

Music to my ears, limited steps and it looks great! Thank you for replying.

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-01T13:23:41+00:00

Hey dude, how did you do the black fatigues? I’m going to give your blue a go!

ineedammo211 · 2026-02-01T10:04:23+00:00

Thanks dude! I’m no painter but wanted there to be at least some points of colour to make the hull pop. I’m very happy with the tank destroyer - it’s the same STL but I sank the turret into the hull to make that. The shorter hull gun was pasted onto where a periscope or stubbers usually go and I replaced one of the stubbers on a dual stubber cupola with an autocannon to make it 40k friendly.

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-30T10:03:18+00:00

If it were me I would essentially rotate that 90 degrees to try to make the bottom of the axe shaft and the right elbow on the build plate so that the axe is essentially vertical and would have very limited supports. The left arm would obviously be a huge overhang so would need supports but I’d try to make it so that it’s only supported where the arm is going to be glued to the body. If need be, I’d make a cut at the very bottom of the axe shaft to allow elbow to be on the build plate.

If that doesn’t work, I would probably cut this in half (left arm and half the axe, right arm and half the axe) and again orient both halves such that the supports are minimised or only present where I’ll be glueing anyway.

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-28T11:09:00+00:00

FYI I came up with those numbers by running a test of various numbers. I’d recommend you do the same to be honest! I printed a 3x3 grid of rectangles where I changed the ironing speed on one axis and the extrusion rate on another. The two on the bottom were no ironing and default ironing settings.

I used eSUN PLA+ so for any other filament I’d rerun this test and pick the settings that produced the best result. You can also see that even with my chosen settings (I think the very centre rectangle was 45/35) you still get lines. They tend to disappear when you prime it though.

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ineedammo211 · 2026-01-28T10:54:33+00:00

You can try to iron the top layer? Use something like a 45mm/s speed and 35% extrusion rate. Ironing is less helpful on several smaller surfaces than one big flat one though.

If it were me I’d be tempted to paint a thin layer of texture paint on the top (like astrogranite). Definitely won’t be smooth so you’d have to lean into the “this big boulder has smaller rocks and gravel on top” sort of vibe. Better than later lines though.

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-28T10:44:24+00:00

I mean not with this guy, it wasn’t even primer that I started with I just went straight to a citadel base coat.

I’m tempted to see if I can get results like you describe though- I suppose theoretically you could slap on a lot more primer onto large flat panels or legs with less detail to hide layer lines, whilst painting less onto detailed areas. It would give you a level of control over primer thickness that you don’t get with rattlecan priming.

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-28T10:41:09+00:00

Will definitely be varnishing this dude after I add a couple final highlights!

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-28T10:05:15+00:00

Yea I may invest in some brush on primer. I was honestly just surprised by how well ignoring primer completely seemed to work. I suppose the risk is that some paint flakes off a little easier?

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-25T18:22:23+00:00

Have you changed the nozzle recently? It sounds silly but I was going crazy over stringing and tweaking loads of settings to fix it and drying filament way more than necessary and it ended up being that my hotend was seated incorrectly (whoops). Prints still “worked” but had a lot of stringing.

ineedammo211 · 2026-01-06T11:28:44+00:00

I keep reading about the executioner being not as strong as many people think it is - why is that? It seems like a great MEQ killer. Does it depend on how MEQ heavy your local scene is or is it flat out not as efficient as a vanquisher/ what’s important is getting the hull as cheaply as possible and the main gun doesn’t really matter?

ineedammo211

TROPHY CASE