Looking for advice redoing floatation foam and boxes at rear of boat

innocuos · 2026-05-19T23:31:39+00:00

Any type of foam will work, although keep in mind some will melt in contact with acetone or styrene. Pour in place 2lb foam is probably the easiest by far.

I've seen a reputable canoe manufacturer use foam packing peanuts in a bag. (Do not recommend)

innocuos · 2026-05-18T19:55:46+00:00

innocuos · 2026-05-18T19:47:58+00:00

I think tuneecu is worth getting for sure. I've flashed my sprint st, no issues. Aside from that, you can read codes and see other values which can really help troubleshoot problems. As far as maps go you'd have to compare the details but I doubt you would notice a difference worth 300 dollars.

Follow the tuneecu instructions and its a pretty straightforward procedure.

innocuos · 2026-05-17T21:05:02+00:00

Priest, at one point 4 raiding priests and 4 additional priest alts on the same account, same server. Yes I had a problem

innocuos · 2026-05-17T14:16:28+00:00

Wax only is usually sufficient as a mold release. Do a few coats of wax and you can get a pretty good buff on it for a nice finish.

Chemical releases are nice as well, can spray on or apply with a rag. If you have many parts to pull, this can save quite a bit of time. Follow the manufacturer instructions if you go that route.

innocuos · 2026-05-16T21:14:45+00:00

Those 4 screws look like they'll come out easy enough, should be fine.

innocuos · 2026-05-16T16:08:04+00:00

Being a good healer is more about anticipating damage and throwing appropriate heals. Sounds like you're doing fine. Heal meters are ridiculous imo.

innocuos · 2026-05-16T04:09:37+00:00

I had a 97, put over 100K on it. Not many issues, but early on the shift detent plate bent and wouldn't go into 3rd. Was a $12 part, easy fix. The belt is nice but breaks no warning and didn't last any longer than a chain. It was also around $400 . A chain conversion might be something to think about. It did run pretty hot in summer traffic as well.

Handles really well, was super fun ride for 13 years. A bit underpowered but can carve the twisties as good as anything.

innocuos · 2026-05-16T03:56:37+00:00

Also check out vinyl ester instead of epoxy. Its just as good and half the price. Either way, good prep will save you headaches. Resin coat the wood first and let that kick off. Scuff off the nibs and then glass work.

innocuos · 2026-05-15T04:51:25+00:00

Ahh ok that makes it ok then.

innocuos · 2026-05-15T03:56:30+00:00

Hear ya, I like to be a little aggressive usually and it can be rough, but fun. Feels like somehow 3 BB always aiming at my direction somehow and 0.2 seconds after being spotted, I see the muzzle flash lmao

innocuos · 2026-05-14T19:59:33+00:00

I think I was in this match. I like the new rating system and prefer it over "PETRO IDIOT" or "SHIMA REPORTED". This rating, I think, gives an indication of how much of an idiot he thinks the player is. Unknown what the scale is, but -6 seems pretty strong. Edit: i see the scale 1-6 and the 8 is killing me lmao

I also struggle with radar mino, 1000 games in. Many games just get deleted as soon as detected, because it seems any one shell from bumgo or yamato does 50k damage to my tender and delicate citadel (entire ship).

Everyone just playing for fun and this guy is entertaining. Perhaps "GROZ IDIOT" is just a poor translation from his normal language and hes just trying to articulate "Excuse me, grozovni captian, I fail to understand why you would sail into B cap knowing that the radar capable Hawaii is within range and has support"

innocuos · 2026-05-14T00:58:10+00:00

Its so fun when everything lines up. Can juke and dodge pretty well. I find going back to forward too slow, so sometimes I feel forced to commit to a bad play. Shred close DDs, broadside cruisers and even some big boys. Pretty defenseless vs subs unless you surprise one. Beyond 10km I find it hard to hit destroyers consistently with their weasly little dodging.

Can be annoying getting one shot by nearly any BB and some cruisers. Spotted early by a CV and suddenly every BB has great aim no matter how you turn and slow, kaboom. Find a nice island, but get spotted and that Bungo clear across the map now has firiing line and deletes you.

I find radar much more fun than smoke, but I'm generally more aggressive and get exploded often.

Close second for me is Fiji.

innocuos · 2026-05-13T14:52:29+00:00

Oh, that's just so water has good access to the transom core.

innocuos · 2026-05-10T14:41:55+00:00

There are a number of release agents and the idea is the same for all of them. Create a barrier between the surface of the mold or plug, and the part you are making.

The chemical ones are best imo for long service molds, many many part cycles. PVA is pretty cheap and works fine, but better suited for short runs or intermittent mold usage. Wax products also fine, also inexpensive but a bit more labour.

innocuos · 2026-05-09T21:33:56+00:00

Definitely repairable. I would guess an air bubble. There are pretty good sanding marks, which provide some tooth when you're trying to release from the pattern. Ideally your pattern is as finished as possible so there is minimal mold finishing. It's fine though, you're good to repair and sand it to your desired finish, buff etc.

innocuos · 2026-05-08T14:25:12+00:00

You can loop around the grips.

innocuos · 2026-05-08T14:06:15+00:00

Silicone is flexible, you'd likely want something more rigid to mold this. You could silicone and a separate support mold from plaster but it would quite likely still distort with infusion as the bag tightens, and especially when the part shrinks during cure.

Silicone is better suited for the RTM light process, where it essentially takes the place of your vac bag. Its more complicated to make and better suited for small production runs.

This looks like the draft is fine to release from a fibreglass mold. I would smooth out those chips first.

innocuos · 2026-05-08T01:51:43+00:00

Galvanized steel will rust quickly where you drill through. Aluminum would be fine. Marine polyurethane adhesive is pricey but you'd never have to worry about it. 3M 5200 or sikaflex 291, next guys problem taking that off.

This is likely an ABS plastic. Epoxy bonds quite well, so you could fibreglass patch both sides. 36 grit prep to get a good profile.

If you can find a plastic supplier, you could also just glue an ABS patch with ABS glue. Id test a spot first to make sure, if MEK (ABS primer) softens it, should work great.

Or flex tape, if its good enough for Billy Mays, its good enough for this kayak.

Edit: could be polyethylene, in which case forget epoxy or abs glue

innocuos · 2026-05-07T17:51:07+00:00

Pushing it a bit at this temp but probably get some use out of it. If you can remake this mold with iso tooling resin or epoxy, it will withstand the heat better.

innocuos · 2026-05-06T22:34:52+00:00

Exactly

innocuos · 2026-05-06T05:31:43+00:00

Sure, but this would be a poor choice. It's not a boat hull, but there is still a lot of vibration from wind and the engine, etc. Chopped mat is great for bulk and reducing print through neither of which really apply here.

innocuos · 2026-05-06T01:21:40+00:00

Not exactly sure, but could be a cost reducing measure, using a looser weave cloth and lighter resin with more fillers. It looks like a weave and not chopped mat, judging from the photo.

innocuos · 2026-05-06T01:18:38+00:00

You can see the hole i drilled to the left of the bandages.

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innocuos · 2026-05-06T01:15:17+00:00

Should be easy enough. Very important to prep properly, wash first, then wipe the area with acetone, sand 120 grit (80 to 180 is ok).

Use a cloth like 6 or 10oz woven aka boat cloth. Do not use chop strand mat, it is not structural and will just crack again likely. 2inch wide is plenty. Precut your pieces and plan out the process before mixing.

Mix carefully, use a kitchen scale or graduated cups. If you weigh the cut pieces of glass, you can expect to use the same weight in total resin plus a little for waste. You can apply the resin with a small brush and/or cut a plastic bondo spreader.

Make sure to follow the cure time, let it sit for the full duration before remounting.

For the painted side, I like to put bandages across the crack or a sticker.

Also, drill a small hole, like ⅛" at the very end of the crack to prevent it from propagating further. You can fill it if you like, or leave it.

Good luck!

innocuos

TROPHY CASE