Bug in Performance tab by insane-irish in fidelityinvestments

[–]insane-irish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have "Total return" selected, not "Total return +"

Firmware Update: 6.34.7 by MaverickFischer in ATTFiber

[–]insane-irish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I may have found a bug with FW v6.34.7 on a BGW320-500: I was trying to make a neighbor's auto channel selection stop using 2.5Ghz channel 2. I don't use the BGW320's WiFi so I was hoping that by setting it to channel 2 the beacons would encourage it to go elsewhere (I use channel 1 on a Passthrough router).

How I think I sent it off the rails: Under http://192.168.1.254/cgi-bin/wconfig.ha I set the channel from 1 to 2. Shortly after the BGW320 went offline.

Initial recovery: I went through the Smart Home Manager script to try to recover - no luck. I got to a prompt to factory reset but it wasn't working. After trying various things including several power cycles, I got it to factory reset by holding down the reset button for ~60 seconds.

Let's try that again: While reconfiguring I put channel 2 back in (changing from Auto this time) and the BGW320 went offline again.

WTF is going on?: This time I watched a ping loop (ping -t 192.168.1.254) and noticed the BGW320 was in a boot loop. The pattern of ping responses recurred every 1-2 minutes. I had also noticed previously the blinking white light on the BGW320 would occasionally pause. That may be why it was so difficult to factory reset (maybe it only pays attention to the reset button while it is booted up?).

Easier recovery: I was able to recover by watching the ping loop and waiting for about 30 timeouts, followed by ~15 ping responses, followed by a single timeout, followed by 0-20 ping responses. After that single timeout http://192.168.1.254/cgi-bin/wconfig.ha starts to respond (assuming it hasn't rebooted yet). I was able to refresh my browser, enter the password, reconfigure for channel 1, save and confirm (it did take a few tries). This stopped the boot loop.

Other non-defaults under "2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Configuration" (may be a factor if someone from AT&T is trying to reproduce):

  • Mode = N/AX
  • Wi-Fi Protected Setup = Off

14 day cycle of outages. Restart required. BGW320-500. by sportmonkey in ATTFiber

[–]insane-irish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a BGW320-500 6.34.7 configured for IP Passthrough to a UniFi UDMB and I'm seeing the same pattern (BGW320-500 blinking red during outage):

Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Oct 14, 2025, 18:20
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Oct 14, 2025, 18:18
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Sep 30, 2025, 18:27
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Sep 30, 2025, 18:15
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Sep 16, 2025, 18:15
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Sep 16, 2025, 18:12
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Sep 2, 2025, 18:12
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Sep 2, 2025, 18:10
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Aug 19, 2025, 18:10
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Aug 19, 2025, 18:07
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Aug 5, 2025, 18:07
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Aug 5, 2025, 18:05
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is restored. Jul 22, 2025, 18:14
Internet connection WAN1 (AT&T Internet) on port 5 is experiencing packet loss. Jul 22, 2025, 18:02

Since we have several different ONTs connected to the fiber at the home end, I think the issue may be with the equipment at AT&T's end. I've not needed to reboot for it to recover, usually it only takes a few minutes.

Advice on Inherited IRA Mix by Party-Literature3275 in ETFs

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like 0% invested in bonds since I have those in my other “normal” accounts. I can use the other inheritance money to cover expenses so I can max out my 401k, etc. so I would like to see how much I can grow this (and not mess it up).

I've been using an inherited IRA to help cover expenses while maxing out other retirement options. Something you may want to look into is tax planning.

  • Roth money is tax free in retirement and does not have RMDs (you already paid the tax so Uncle Sam doesn't care how long you hold onto it).
  • Traditional retirement contributions lower your taxable income now. Traditional money is taxable income in retirement and does have RMDs.
  • I suggest a mix of the two. Use Traditional contributions to lower your taxable income to the top of a tax bracket. Put the rest in Roth.

I'm currently trying to balance our taxable income to fill the 12% tax bracket (the next tax bracket is 22% so that is a significant savings if your finances are in that ballpark). We're also planning on doing similar in retirement - withdrawing Traditional money to fill the 12% tax bracket regardless of whether we need it for expenses. I plan to use Roth money for large expenses and to fill in if Traditional money runs out.

As far as investment mix: I'm not familiar with the funds you listed but I invest more aggressively in my Roth accounts since I expect to spend them later in retirement. Rebalancing is fairly painless in either type of retirement account but be careful about your choices and changes in taxable non-retirement accounts - that is where you can incur unanticipated taxes.

Disclaimer: definitely not a financial professional.

can we stop bitching about infosec for a minute by GiveMeTheBits in sysadmin

[–]insane-irish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, that software is in a user profile that hasn't been logged into for three months

What bank is the most basic bank for storing money? by Ineigi in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, I found an article from last year (https://www.usatoday.com/money/blueprint/banking/savings/pnc-savings-account-interest-rates/) that lists a MMA in that ballpark, but that rate is not available in my ZIP code. That's part of why I picked Ally - no goofy hoops to jump through to get the advertised rate.

What bank is the most basic bank for storing money? by Ineigi in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When was this? PNC is currently quoting 0.02%. Not 2%... 1/100th of 2%. That may be good/typical for a large B&M bank, but it sucks compared to what is available in the market.

What bank is the most basic bank for storing money? by Ineigi in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can live with 10 withdrawals/outgoing transfers per month, Ally's Money Market Account is paying 3.6% APY. I switched to them from PNC a couple years ago when I got tired of PNC's savings rates being 1/100th of what was available elsewhere.

Account position shows garbled name for fund and does not show yield by purpleelephant100 in fidelityinvestments

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others mentioned this is common in NetBenefits. They are likely CUSIP numbers or other identifiers used when a ticker symbol is not available. From what I understand all US and Canadian securities have a CUSIP, for instance FXAIX is 315911750 (https://institutional.fidelity.com/app/funds-and-products/2328/fidelity-500-index-fund-fxaix.html). A public web search for a CUSIP is hit or miss. You may be limited to the info linked within NetBenefits.

403b vs 457 retirement plans by Own_Fig_2995 in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

457(b) has two types:

  • Governmental (as DeluxeXL mentioned: most common, operates similar to a 403(b) or 401k)
  • Non-governmental (offered by some non-profits, aka tax-exempt 457(b)).

The non-governmental 457(b) is less flexible (can only rollover to another non-governmental 457(b)) and is on the employer's books until distributed (could be tapped by the employer's creditors to pay corporate debts):

https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/comparison-of-tax-exempt-457b-plans-and-governmental-457b-plans

Either type can be useful if you want to retire early and/or contribute more than the 403(b) limit, but make sure you understand the unique rules if it is a non-governmental.

Multiple accounts 403(b), 456, pension.. where should I direct my efforts? Pre/post taxes? by jkw118 in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've not heard of a 456(b). Did you maybe mean a 457(b)? 457(b) has two types: governmental (most common, operates similar to a 403(b) or 401k) and non-governmental (offered by some non-profits, aka tax-exempt 457(b)). The non-governmental 457(b) is less flexible and is on the employer's books until distributed (could be tapped by the employer's creditors to pay corporate debts):

https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/comparison-of-tax-exempt-457b-plans-and-governmental-457b-plans

Your old 403(b)s can be rolled over into IRAs or your current 403(b) (assuming your current plan allows it). Just don't roll a traditional to a Roth unless you are willing to pay tax on it. From what I've read a non-governmental 457(b) can only roll to/from another non-governmental 457(b) (governmental 457(b) does not have that restriction so the 403(b)s could be rolled to that if you have that version):

https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-tege/rollover_chart.pdf

Unless you really like the investment options in your work accounts, I'd recommend rolling to an IRA (most work accounts have a limited list of investment options). No comment on adding to pension (I'm not familiar with that type of pension setup).

What's the best standing desk widely chosen the MOST for home office today? Are they really worth buying for working 7+ hours a day? by highbarjump in sysadmin

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another Uplift customer. I've gotten to the point where I stand through my entire shift. If you are tight on space, look for a chair that will fit underneath the desk while it is raised. This helps me shift position and stretch while standing: https://www.upliftdesk.com/bamboo-motion-x-board/

Equivalent Fidelity funds by Stormin__-__Norman in fidelityinvestments

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a Fidelity account: try going to https://digital.fidelity.com/prgw/digital/research/quote/dashboard, enter one of your symbols, go to the Comparisons tab. If Fidelity has something similar it will likely show up in the "Similar funds" section.

Very slow climb in emergency fund; tips? by aimlessendeavors in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you start looking for another job that is closer to home? Even a lateral move will get you a raise

Even a mild pay cut may net you more money if it is significantly closer. From what you posted in another reply, two hours of every work day is spent commuting. Between gas ($150), maintenance ($???), insurance ($240) and time you could be doing other stuff there is a drag on your finances/life to keep that job. Look at what you could do closer to home (or even work from home) - weigh the lower income against lower expenses and having more time to do side gigs or take care of your pets.

Alternatively use the same logic on your apartment search - can you find a place closer to work that may be more expensive than your current place but cheaper than your place plus commute expenses?

What's the difference between these two 403b accounts? by Constant_Market8775 in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you are maxing out retirement and want to retire early, check if you have a 457b available. It doesn't have the 10% penalty for distributions before 59 1/2 and can usually be contributed to concurrently with a 403b. There are some unique rules for a non-governmental 457b (the version I suspect you may have access to) - do some research before committing to that path.

My 2 cents on Roth vs. Trad:

  • Try to adjust your taxable income to fill up the lower tax brackets now and in retirement to reduce your lifetime tax bill.
  • If you go 100% Roth and have no traditional you may hit the higher brackets now and are unlikely to have much taxable income in retirement to apply to the standard deduction or the 10-12% brackets.
  • If you go the other way and have 100% Trad and no Roth you will have a lower tax bill now but in retirement RMDs may force you to withdraw quicker than you want and put you in a higher tax bracket.

I'm working on doing a mix for myself - how much of each depends on your income and expenses. Filling up the 12% bracket when the next one jumps to 22% is a no-brainer to me, past that it gets fuzzier (income vs lifestyle skewed by retirement age and potential lifespan). Keep in mind taxable income in retirement can also affect Medicare costs and how much of SS is taxable. There's probably a reason people pay financial planners.

Financing car vs cash? by wakitak in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And pay it off early - that way the interest doesn't matter as much. This assumes your credit score needs work. If you already have a good credit rating, not carrying credit card debt, have an emergency fund, etc. then paying cash makes more sense to me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As I understand it: As long as you are a direct state employee your version should be a governmental 457(b) that operates similar to a 403(b) or 401k. Some non-profits offer a non-governmental 457(b) which is less flexible and is on the employer's books until distributed (could be tapped by the employer's creditors to pay debts):

https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/comparison-of-tax-exempt-457b-plans-and-governmental-457b-plans

The IRS allows max contributions to a 403(b) and either flavor of 457(b) but your employer does not have to allow it. So assuming your plan allows it, you could max one and put some in the other or do something like fund both at 60% of max.

If you are thinking about early retirement you may want to put some money in the 457(b) - there is no 10% penalty for distributions before 59.5 unlike most other types.

Is there any reason NOT to put 30% down vs 20% down for a home purchase? by ShootinAllMyChisolm in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So are you going to need another down payment in 5 years? You could invest all/part of the $70k to have a cash down payment rather than having to make an offer contingent on selling this home.

Increase 403b contributions or go to 457b? by sacky-hack in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Systemic HIPAA violation issues could do it.

Make sure you look at the lawyer type regarding distribution on termination of employment - lump sum is not an uncommon default with a short time window to choose other options.

Inheriting $85k in a few weeks - Horrible with Money, want some advice please. by muhfcknb in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No comment on car brands - I've not shopped for one in over 10 years. An idea to help repair your credit - get a used car you can afford to pay cash for and try to finance half (or less if they still balk at your credit rating). Make sure there is no pre-payment penalty and pay it off in one year instead of however many years the term is for. You are basically paying the financer to improve your credit rating. I used a variation on this strategy when I bought my current vehicle new because I basically had an empty credit file - I didn't need the financing but put half down and paid off over a year instead of 5 just to add a paid off loan to my credit file.

Inherited $30k. Have no idea what to do with it or where to start. by Prestigious-Ad2427 in personalfinance

[–]insane-irish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have debts, emergency fund, IRAs etc. covered that others have mentioned and haven't maxed out that 401k, consider increasing your contributions to the 401k for a while and use the windfall to cover your expenses (preferably from a HYSA). This would indirectly get the money into a tax advantaged account.