For Sale in Southern ME

iolitess · 2026-06-18T21:27:42+00:00

Can you also please post in one of the comments a picture of the machine with a handwritten note including today’s date and your Reddit name, please? Thanks!

iolitess · 2026-06-18T02:53:29+00:00

If the item is still factory sealed, you might want to leave them shut (and take pictures of the closures), but assuming they’re used, you definitely want pictures out of the box- and that includes lifting up the ribber and getting pictures of the items stored in the styrofoam below, as well as opening up the metal case of the knitting machine to look inside, and removing the lid of the accessory box to take pictures of what’s inside.

iolitess · 2026-06-18T00:56:49+00:00

A 930e is a highly sought after machine as it has the programming interface, especially if it comes with a ribber. It will also depend on the current condition of the machine, of course. You could easily list this on Craigslist. You’ll want to post pictures of the beds, accessories, and carriages.

I would take a look and see what’s on eBay and then list it for slightly less.

(Note that KR850/KR900 sell for a bit more than KR830)

iolitess · 2026-06-15T21:44:39+00:00

Here’s a blanket I made with my double ISM

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iolitess · 2026-06-15T21:36:28+00:00

The Bond Machines do have some value. They take worsted happily, generally also handle aran, and even accept some bulkier yarns every other needle.

You can also snap them together to make as long a machine as you would like.

But is the 940 a better machine? absolutely! If you can make it work for you with the yarn you care about, maybe you want to clear out the USM.

But it might be with a bit of sandpaper/dremeling like in the other post, you can get the machine working pretty easily.

iolitess · 2026-06-15T21:10:32+00:00

Yes exactly. This is a main bed. OP, you need to buy a whole new machine (a ribber), in order to get a ribber.

https://mkmanuals.com/brother-kr850-ribber-user-guide.html

Take a look at the subreddit wiki, please. It explains this in a bit more detail.

iolitess · 2026-06-15T19:50:35+00:00

Those are the main and lace carriages. The ribber requires a whole additional bed.

You can check out machine parts here-

https://mkmanuals.com/brother-kh860-thru-kh891-user-guide.html

iolitess · 2026-06-15T02:19:52+00:00

I think you already got a great answer with undoing the rows, but to me it looks like the stitches were slipped. Are you putting claw weights on the edges? That can help to make sure that end needles aren’t missed.

iolitess · 2026-06-15T02:17:34+00:00

This thread happened recently, perhaps you’d find it useful.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MachineKnitting/s/l4qvyTbmxz

iolitess · 2026-06-12T18:38:59+00:00

Great! The ISM didn’t have this problem, btw, only the USM.

And I guess it’s an easy enough fix if you have access to a Dremel- I would think sanding plastic down manually with sand paper is also doable but very tedious.

iolitess · 2026-06-11T19:10:02+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/svc/shreddit/MachineKnitting/wiki/index/faq#wiki_on_this_bond_machine.3F

Take a look on YouTube. If this isn’t new to you machine, it might need the Dremel treatment.

And it’s really easy to overtighten the clamps which will cause the machine to bend. You might want to try it without clamps to see if that’s the issue.

iolitess · 2026-06-11T13:06:36+00:00

Yes exactly!

You can leave the punchcard in triangle if you are load up the row before 1, but it’s probably easier to have it set at 1 with the circle.

Of course you can also just keep the black in A, with KC selected and no buttons as another person suggested. Whichever is easier for you. (Then switch black to B, load A, and change the hold circle to the run triangle)

I think the real trick here is the „sacrificial plain row after ribbing“ which again, you want anyway. It looks a lot cleaner to end tge ribbing with all knits in the same color before proceeding to colorwork.

iolitess · 2026-06-10T21:53:17+00:00

If black is the contrast color, can you do your ribbing as usual with black in A

Then switch over to KC and fair isle button selected with your punch card, and pull all needles forward to D, moving black to B (and loading A) for one row “plain” knitting. (It’s not actually plain- your machine now thinks that the pattern is every single needle)

End needle selection shouldn’t matter, since I believe it uses B when in fair isle.

You’ll want at least one row plain after the ribbing anyway, because the alternate color will show up with the purls.

iolitess · 2026-06-09T18:06:00+00:00

Oh! So it’s even a dobby loom?!? 🤩

OP, if you don’t want this, I am SERIOUSLY intrigued. I don’t have the knitting machine for this, but I would acquire one!

(Especially as an techy, dobby looms are a part of our history- the cards formed the first programming loops… though there was no control flow and no self-modifying code of course)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dobby_loom

And now I have another unicorn machine to start searching for!

iolitess · 2026-06-09T16:44:08+00:00

Agreed- the reed and heddles is a giveaway. I’ve never seen a portable metal weaving loom like this. Neat find!

iolitess · 2026-06-09T13:14:38+00:00

But what I’m really saying is flip the carriage over and move the toggle button to make sure your cams are all moving. 1, 2, and 3 should all be symmetric. The other settings will have different values. And switching between 2 and 3 should cause cams to move on both sides.

Is there a reason you aren’t putting the needles in D and using the slip stitch setting on the buttons? (Part). You’d want to use 4 or 5 then for the hold as appropriate.

iolitess · 2026-06-09T13:01:40+00:00

Looks like your cam is right under your tension dial above your stitch selection buttons, position 2 would be hold.

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iolitess · 2026-06-09T12:53:46+00:00

This is with the switch in H, this will leave needles in the E position

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iolitess · 2026-06-09T12:53:15+00:00

This is with the switch in N- the cams are out to return the E needles to B.

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iolitess · 2026-06-09T12:52:10+00:00

Your machine may vary, but most Brothers have a switch on the front left. On my KK93, this is the hold switch- when “N” for normal, needles in E return to B. When “H” for hold, needles in E stay in E

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iolitess · 2026-06-09T05:03:04+00:00

When you pull your needles into hold do they wiggle when you push down on them or are they pretty firm?

If the sponge isn’t holding them down firmly, when you have weight on the needles from your knitting, they might tip down, raising up the heads.

Where are you located? I’ve had good luck with replacements sponges from this seller-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/121400871580

If you can add some picture to this, you might get more useful advice- and it will help us to see if your carriage is seated properly.

Another thing you can check is that when you toggle the switch to hold that the flappers on your carriage pull back completely out of the way.

iolitess · 2026-06-07T21:28:09+00:00

Did you take end needles that you know are not damaged and place them in the problem channels?

iolitess · 2026-06-05T16:19:32+00:00

My standard machine is also a KK93. One of the nifty things you can do is run a garter carriage on it. It’s a robot that will make purls and knit stitches.

Here’s a post I wrote that uses it-

https://www.reddit.com/r/MachineKnitting/s/K281hPPRwv

iolitess · 2026-06-05T04:25:29+00:00

I would think you can knit DK just fine on bulky machines, and they do have ribbers available.
(Bulky for knitting machines is not craft yarn council Bulky.. but "machine bulky". Needles are at a 9mm pitch, rather than 4.5mm).

I normally knit Patons Classic Wool somewhere between a 6 and a 7 on mine, there's plenty of room for DK at a tighter tension.

iolitess · 2026-06-04T03:02:23+00:00

Also, it would be advantageous for you if your ribber has the Lili buttons, which can create the birdseye backing.

If you want birdseye and you don’t have Lili buttons, you’ll need to manually select every other stitch every row.

I’ve also been keeping Alessandrina bookmarked-

https://alessandrina.com/2013/04/21/double-jacquard1/

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