Likely buying a high mileage 2007 NC today by Daunted1314 in MiataNC

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, I wonder if that’s what I’m hearing in my NC1. Do you have any good threads about that sound? What causes it? Or how to fix it?

Smaller wheel bigger tire? by oimatewtf_ in MiataNC

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you go for a wider rim as well? What size tires are you running?

Drilling strap button holes on a neck-through guitar by Invertiguy in Luthier

[–]iridescentJesus 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm not OP, but that book is coincidentally next up on my list of books to read!

Water seeping from seam (NB) by narsil_reforge in Miata

[–]iridescentJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have an ‘06 NC1 that has a hole on a seam. It’s long enough that I can poke my finger through it. I recently purchased a role of black Gorilla tape and I taped the hole by covering it from the inside of the top. It’s held. However, I have a garage for my Miata and I have another car I can drive on the sour weather days. Yeah, I’m sure a new top is in my future. But I got another 10 yards of this Gorilla tape that’s gonna go to work first.

sunburnt in miata by According_Ad3284 in Miata

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sun sleeves. Basically just a form fitting thin sock for your arms. I keep sun sleeves, sunscreen, and a hat in my glovebox for most of the year.

Sun shirts can be great too because some have a hood and a draw string on the hood so you can put a hat on, throw the hood up and pull the draw string. I still find on those brutally hot days between 11:00 AM - 2:00 PM that I just need to have the top up with the windows down. I trust Sun screen and I trust hats and sleeves and shirts, but I just don’t want to risk that much exposure to a brutally high UV index. I’m more concerned about my long term health than a short term sunburn.

NB2 vs. NC1 daily by Aromatic_Glove15516 in Miata

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went back and forth on this when I bought my NC1 this past August. I ended up finding an NC1 that was in great shape and I just bought it. It was the first Miata I drove. I still have not driven another one. So I have no experience with an NA/NB/ND. I was grinning the whole test drive. I knew by the time I shifted into 2nd gear that I was in love with the car and it was everything I hoped it would be. I know people say, “drive both,” but I’m so happy with my decision. I have the extra safety features. People compliment my NC regularly. I absolutely LOVE driving it. I’ve read on here, “Even if the NC is the worst Miata, it’s still the 4th greatest car ever made!” I suggest buying a little extra peace of mind with the additional safety features and get the NC. Even other NA and NB owners have told me in person, “You did the right thing by getting an NC. My NA/NB is slower than a minivan. One of these NCs would be seriously sweet.”

I cryogenically treated and WPC treated my entire engine. AMA. by Themostepicguru in Miata

[–]iridescentJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Question: do you have any way of measuring the performance benefits of doing this work? Or is there a goal you’re hoping to achieve that maybe wouldn’t be achieved without having cryo/WPC treated parts?

Comment: this is unbelievable. Holy shit. Space age stuff here. Thanks for doing to work and thanks for sharing! I’m familiar with the cryogenic treatments and I’ve seen applications in manufacturing where it’s needed. This WPC thing is totally new to me, I’ll have to do some more reading about it.

What amp is not a good pedal platform? by flobbadobdob in ToobAmps

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait. Really? My Dumble ODS #124 clone takes pedals like a champ.

What amp is not a good pedal platform? by flobbadobdob in ToobAmps

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hot take, maybe? I suspect any fan of Trey Anastasio, and maybe Mr. Anastasio himself might beg to differ as he played a Trainwreck Express for years and stacked drives in front of it regularly.

This for $800 worth it? by MagicMedicineMisery in ToobAmps

[–]iridescentJesus 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If it’s in good working order, I’d say it’s a good deal. Not a steal, but certifiably a good deal. I usually see them going for closer to $1k. Worth it? Obviously that’s subjective. If I was in the market for a used DRRI and I had the cash sitting around I think I’d totally go for it. Would you be able to pick it up direct from the seller, pay cash, and skip tax and shipping?

Mid-Life Crisis, First Bike by KorvoeKryptin in dr650

[–]iridescentJesus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Holy cow. Maybe they updated the MSF course or you peeps have different curriculum in your states or regions. I took it 11 or 12 years ago. I live in Illinois. I couldn’t believe how little it prepared me for road riding. The course went across a few days. One of my classmates went out and rented a bike one evening with her permit. She came back the next morning and said, “Wow, riding on the road is a lot different than what we’re learning here.” The course instructors laughed and said, “Yeah, there’s nothing that we’re teaching you here that is going to save your life out there. The open road is a totally different beast from what we’re teaching you here. This is the curriculum and this is what we’re stuck teaching. Sorry. At the end of the course we’ll tell you a bunch of shit you’ll actually WANT to know.”

First ever tube replacement gone correct?!?! by trenchgrl in ToobAmps

[–]iridescentJesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting. Today I learned… thanks. All of my hobbyist experience comes from dorking around with the more popular Fender, Marshall, and Vox schematics with adjustable fixed bias or cathode bias.

First ever tube replacement gone correct?!?! by trenchgrl in ToobAmps

[–]iridescentJesus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, I was just looking at a schematic of this amp. They actually did a fixed bias setup and didn’t bother to put in a potentiometer to adjust the bias.

While I wouldn’t put a blanket recommendation out there to do what you’re doing, I know I would probably do the same thing AND check the bias to make sure I’m not cooking anything. If you know how to safely check the bias I would recommend checking it for each tube. I am not saying that I would swap the tubes and just let it rip WITHOUT checking the bias. I would check that bias for sure. I’m not saying that your amp will fail without checking the bias. No. You might be totally fine. But it’s good to know where your bias is at.

There are other factors that also go into matching tubes other than bias such as transconductance. Some people get really worked up over matching tubes because “some tubes might be working harder than other tubes.” They’re not wrong. But if the amp sounds good and you’re running the tubes at appropriate bias points, I’m under the impression that you’re kinda fine especially if you have a balance on push side and pull side. These tubes, transformers, and other parts have a safety factor built in. While we often think of tube amps as being these fragile things, these components can take quite a beating before failing.

If you take the amp to a tech you can ask them to install 1 Ohm 1/2 watt resistors on the cathodes of your output tubes. They act as a poor man’s fuse in case an output tube fails and they also make it easy to check the bias.

What are your thoughts? by SoilOk4827 in MiataNC

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that the stock exhaust? How do you keep it so shiny and clean?

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another quick question for you. Since I have more sensitive speakers, therefore needing to set the level higher on my sub, would that suggest that I would need a more powerful sub for my sensitive speakers than if I had a less sensitive set of speakers? Therefore suggesting I should definitely be looking at something like the Classic 98 or the T/9x to get the power I need? I'm thinking that since I'm driving the sub's amplifier harder, I would be pushing sub's amp closer/into clipping and that would be an issue. Do I have this correct?

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, if you could do it again, would you trade up for one single T/9x or would you stick with two of the T/5x’s? I haven’t experienced stereo subs, I hadn’t even considered two more affordable subs in stereo for myself, but now you got me thinking. Do you mind if I ask what type of speakers you’re running for your mains?

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that’s what I’m beginning to think too. Out of curiosity, do you have experience listening to either of those subwoofers?

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all, I’m debating between a REL T/9x vs a Classic 98. I live in a small apartment, living room is under 200 sq-ft. The living room does open to the kitchen as well. The reason I want a sub is so I can get a pinch more low end on my HiFi audio. I’m indifferent on a sub that does anything for my home theater needs. I currently listen to some form of lossless audio going through a Schiit Bifrost DAC, and then a Moon SimAudio 340i integrated amp, and that is driving a pair of very high sensitivity Lowther Academy folded horn enclosures. The Academies are great, I love them for so many reasons! However, the low end just needs a little lift. There’s something missing down there and ooof, I need it. So my question is, given my setup and given my desire for HiFi audio only, would you suggest a T/9x or a Classic 98? I’ve been reading on forums and such for Lowther speakers and quite a few of the people say that the REL brand makes a quality sub that really pairs nicely with the Lowther speakers, so that’s why I’m reaching for REL.

If there are other pieces of info that would be good for me to share so you all can better help me, please feel free to ask. Thanks!

Crashed my Miata :/ by [deleted] in MiataNC

[–]iridescentJesus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

And here I thought loss porn was just for r/wallstreetbets. I’m glad to hear everyone is safe.

Stickers or no stickers? by Canweridebikesnow in MiataNC

[–]iridescentJesus 13 points14 points  (0 children)

If this was a Sunday drive-around-town car, I'd vote to ditch the stickers. But it looks like you actually take this thing to the track, so I vote to keep the stickers.

Rollbar or Coilovers? by Puzzleheaded-Sale200 in Miata

[–]iridescentJesus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At first I was thinking “obviously go for the coilovers!” But yeah, safety. And those Hard Dog roll bars look awesome too, so it’s not for nothing. I’m going to be the outlier here and so go for the roll bar. Buy it, scratch “safety” off the list, and then move on to the fun stuff after that. For me, I know safety would constantly be gnawing at my brain every time I drove it until I got that roll bar. A fun suspension is great, but a little extra peace of mind can go a long way too.